goldenstonebazaar

What will be the shelf life for such mixture? Art acrylics have something like 6 yrs shelf life, mixtures - less.

Feels and smell different, result is different. Likely blend of waxes, not oils.

I have it, tried, but it's too thick and inconvenient in my opinion. There are much better and convenient mainstream leather finishes, at better prices. From woodworking finishes I heard about using Deft Lacquer, oil-based poliurethane, water-based polyurethane, tried last the last two, they were too thick. This is a faster drying kind linseed oil, hardware stores have it. Disposing the rags is a pain, they could self-ignite, special container or open-air storage are recommended.

There are water-proofing compounds for oil-tanned leather, like Bee Natural brand or Pecard's. If they keep water out, they may keep dye in. Didn't try them yet, but planning to.

Tandy has Fiebing's Aussie Conditioner that offers some protection, not as water-resistant as Super Shene or Resolene. Pecard's paste (something like "No more leaks") may work too, but it may be petroleum based. Eco-Flo professional finish comes in matte, but on frequently bent surfaces water-resistance suffers. Angelus finish come in matte too, but I didn't try it yet.

There are posts here for use Super Shene (multiple coats) as a resist, not Satin Shene.

Using hair dryer on low setting speeds up sinking of conditioner into the leather, even if it was applied after Resolene. If you have a temperature controlled dehydrator or heated box (as for holster hardening), this will work too.

No personal experience, but I have seen at Springfield Leather spray for protecting suede from moisture, maybe it could work for keeping the dye in too.

What low sheen or matte finishes are the best for use on black veg tan? Without spraying and being more water- and rub-off resistant than Bag-Kote, MPB, NFO-beeswax paste or Mop-and-Glo. Some considerations: 1. When finishing black English Bridle or holstered skirting (W&C), even Satin Shene comes too shiny. Recommended mix of water, Satin Sheen and Super Sheen as 2:1:1 too. 2. Applying neutral Satin Shene or Eco-Flo Professional matte finish leaves translucent whitish hint in leather pores, I believe this is a mica powder sed as a matting agent. Black Resolene and neutral Super Shene have no such problem, but they are shiny on this leathers. 3. I tried Bag-Kote, MPB, NFO-beeswax paste, Aussie conditioner on scraps, water resistance is much lowert and water stains appear. Also there is concern if there could be rub-off of Fiebing's spirit dyes on clothes with these finishes, and could the oil from finishes stain clothes. Any personal expearance? 4. Fiebings Leather Sheen are no longer available locally, it gives less water protection than Resolene or Super Shene, and finished with it leather looks unfinished at all. I know that masters use it successfully, but maybe it needs other undelaying finish. Any thoughts, speaking from experience? Thank you.

There is a soft, pliable and draping undyed vegtan leather available: milled leather, with pronounced pebble grain, coming in thicknesses 3-4 oz and 5-6 oz. How the techniques of work with it are different from normal tooling vegtan? 1. Will it strech and change shape with use? 2. Does it have to be lined (not so smooth flesh side) or just be smoothed by Leather Balm or Resolene (or will it stretch and this seal be broken)? 3. Dyeing - Fiebing's spirit and Pro-Oil dyes in the usual way? 4. Sealing (moisture and rub-off resistance): on non-stretching tooling leather Resolene works well, but when leather changes its shape this seal may be broken. Any personal experience, please? 5. Finishiing to preserve pliability of this leather? Super Shene, Resolene and Eco-Flo Professional wax finishes seem to stiffen leather significantly, and Leather Balm, Aussie Conditioner and Montana Pitch Blend seems to be less protective for keeping dye from rub-off on clothes and less protective from rain or sweating (for small personal carry items or car seats, not as handbags). 6. Edging techniques? This is a thick soft leather, too soft for waxing and burnishing, unless edge was hardened soaked by SuperShene, and too soft and too thick for skiving edge, turning over and stitching along the edge. Roll over using the same leather seems to be out of question because of leather thickness (for small personal items, not handbags). Placing milled leather grain to grain side with thin 2-3 oz tooling leather, sewing along the edge, rolling over the thin tooling leather (as Paul Long lining works) should do the thick, but stiff tooling leather lining will limit pliability of milled leather. Making a thin strip of thin tooling leather/calf and roll it over the edge of milled leather will add stiff perimeter to otherwise pliable leather. Chrome tan suede, while being softer, is not suiable where only vegtan should be used. Tooling pigskin and goat are stiff too and have incompatible, IMHO, texture with pebbled milled leather. 7. For belt loops or handles: Because this leather doesn't hold the shape good, maybe less stretchable tooling leather should be used? 8. Using snaps at a flap: will this leather hold well with repeated pulling and closing at snap, or snaps should be used only if stiffener and lining were added?