smudley

Well folks, I guess you've heard the news by now that Tandy has discontinued another fine product--Neatlac. Now that I can't find any, does anyone have any bright ideas, or crazy ones for that matter, or even mad scientist potion recipes for a replacement product? One of the folks in my guild (Calumet Area Leathercrafters Guild) said it is basiclly a mixture of Neatsfoot oil and Laquer. Ok, I can go for that, but in what ratio? And. I saw Toloul listed on the can as well. What's that, and how much is used? Heck, if Tandy keeps discontinuing all the good stuff, we'll have to go back to the stone age days techniques to get anything done, unless we can find other sources of compatible products. BTW, I did find 1 spray can of Neatlac in the store, but absolutely NO liquid in any size container. I know Fiebings makes a spray Saddle Lac, which is compatible, but I haven't seen any liquid of that either, and the iiquid is what I am needing for blocking and prefinishing. Anybody's bright, crazy, or otherwise, ideas will be considered for trial mixture.....as long as my personal safety isn't put at risk. Aw, what the heck, put it at risk, it's been pretty boring around here lately!!!!

Alright, Tina, I dare ya...., no, I DOUBLE DOG DARE YA to enter this in the Prarie States Leather Guild show next spring and the IFOLG show next fall!!!!!! I would love to see it in person, and see the ribbons it would take!!!! AND I KNOW IT WOULD!!!! You make the best!!!! Jim P.S. Glad I got to see you at the show in Columbus! I wish we could have visited more.

[" Calumet meets in Highland, IN and their contact is Beth Volpe 219-937-1556."] The best contact for the Calumet area Leathercrafter's Guild is Monica Nibbe, President. Her number is (219) 963-1648, and it is best to call her in the morning, as she works afternoons. You can also send myself, or "howardb" (Brent) a message through this forum, as we are both members of the Guild, as well, and we will gladly answer any questions we can. We meet the 2nd Sunday of the month, most often at the Redeemer Lutheran Church in Highland, IN, though we also sometimes meet at the Tandy Leather store on HWY 30 in Merrillville. Our next meeting will be at the Tandy store on Aug 10th at 1:00pm. We would be glad to welcome anyone interested to our meeting. Jim

I especially like those leggins, or at least I think that's what they're called. The ones that cover your calves and protect them from the exhaust and hot engine. Where can I get the pattern for a set? I've been wanting to make some for when I don't want to wear full chaps, but haven't seen patterns anywhere I've looked. How are they fastened, and how do you keep them from falling down a little?

I have made a few molded knife cases for different shaped knives. I have experimented with a few different ways of forming them and I personally like to make a "mold set". What I do is I get a piece of either 3/8 plywood, or 1/2 or 3/4 craftwood (which is uaually pine, from Lowe's) that is big enough to clamp my mold to, and use this as my base. For most of my molds, this is about 3"x6". I then get a piece of plywood the same size, and draw the outline of the knife that the case will be for, making sure I leave enough room for the thickness of the leather around the knife. I have also used Plexiglas for the base and the form (the outside part) I cut this out and wax (if it's wood) the form so it won't hold the moisture from the molding process. Make sure the knife will be able to be removed from the completed case. If I want to use the knife as my actual mold, I make sure it is wrapped well in cellophane to protect it. If I want to use a wood plug, I make it the same thickness as the thickest part of the knife, then cut or carve the recesses and curves on the part that will be the top when molding. Again, make sure this plug will be such that the knife can be removed from the completed case. Then I also wax it to prevent molding. Then I screw it to the base from the back side, so the screws wpn't leave marks in the case. I cut my leather oversized, of course and soak it well, usually 1/2 hr or so in warm water, till it is completely limp. Then I use a wood roller to squegee some of the water out, so it will set faster. Put it on the form of choice, and using "C" clamps draw the outside form down over the knife or plug. This makes the leather stretch to the knife or plug and take it's shape. I make sure the clamps are tight and leave the setup over night to "cure" If you want to do a little carving, let it set till the moisture content is right, then carve while it is still clamped, but be careful as the leather is bieng stretched, and will have a tendancy to spread the cuts! After the leather is dry, remove the form and continue with the assembly process. I hope this makes it as clear as mud. I know I can't explain exactly what I'm thinking, but I do the best I can.

My concern with using this process is that it might take at least some of the chrome off as well, since Chrome plating involves electroplating. Using this method essentially reverses the flow of electricity and the draw of electrons. I used to work in a plating company many years ago, and can't remember what chemicals we used when stripping chrome from parts, but we used the same process he did in the video. Only, we did it at a lot higher current, and sometimes you could see the water really "boiling", like at a very high boil. When the tank was boiling, we were told to stay out of the area, unless we wore respirators, because of the gases given off.

I would like to know-well, ok need to know-what products to use in place of the discontinued Tandy thinners for the discontinued Pro dye, Neat Lac, Craftsman cement, and rubber cement. I have quite a bit of the discontinued Pro Dye, but no more thinner, and the Tandy mgr said he doesn't have any more, and can't get it anywhere. I laso need to re-thin one of my cans of craftsman cement, as it is getting to thick. I used to have a list of products we used to use for this purpose, but it is looong gone. I remember we used Denatured Alcohol, Acetone, and Laquer Thinner, but the only product I can guess at the use of now, is the Laquer Thinner. I think we used it for the Neat Lac, but PLEASE don't quote me on that, as Acetone also rattles around my head as a Neat Lac thinner. I used to have my cans labeled for what they were used for, but those labels have long ago came off, and weren't replaced due to non use. I don't want to throw my Pro Dye away, since it is only a couple of years old, but unless I can thin it and clean my brushes............. <_<

I have sen the manager at my local Tandy store take a cigarette lighter and scorch the chrome off the new craftool stamps so they will leave a better impression. Only once in a great while does one of them leave a black mark. We looked at the tool that did the staining, but couldn't figure out why it did it. Then he took some rouge and put it on the flesh side of a piece of leather, and rubbed the heck out of the tool face. After which, he rubbed it on a towel to get the rouge residue off. When he tried it again, no problem. If you have any rust and/or pits showing on the tool face; 1: Using a solution of Cream of Tarter and lightly boiling water, I basically boil the tool for about 15-20 minutes to get the top surface rust off, then rinse with hot water to get the tarter out of all the nooks and cranies. This will not take off any chrome, except that which is flaking up and about ready to come off. However it will take the discoloring light rust off. 2: I then TOWEL DRY the tools, rubbing them lightly to polish them up some, and check for flaking chrome. If everything checks out good, and there is no flaking, or pitting, and the tool face looks shiny, I go to step 8. If I find ANY FLAKING CHROME, I pick all of it off that I can then: 3: Check for "hard"rust in the pits and on the surface. 4: This rust must be taken off using a file or sandpaper. 5: Make sure the pits and gouges are smoothed out 6: Then the tool face must be polished out, either on a buffing wheel with compound (fastest), or with a piece of leather flesh side with rouge (slowest way). 7: Then, take the dust residue off by rubbing on a towel or other piece of cloth. 8: Check on a piece of scrap leather for staining. If I find black marks on the leather, I go back to step 6. If I still find black marks, I go back to step 3. I have rehabbed and modified many tools, some of which looked like they should have been thrown away. The above steps are ALWAYS a major part of the process. I have not yet had any black staining on leather if I followed the above procedure. I hope this helps. Maybe someone else has a different procedure they would like to share.