Sovran81
-
Content Count
324 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Sovran81
-
-
I use the same style groover, but I believe I got mine from GoodsJapan. Absolutely the easiest tool for a newcomer to pick up and use perfectly the first time. At times I have used it freehand for initials and such. Works pretty good for that also. For a decorative groove further from the edge I have used a small allen wrench for the guide.
-
Sylvia you find some of the neatest stuff. I have tried a standard swivel knife in the past and could never make the smooth sweeping cut let alone something intricate. Decided right then that knife and tool work were not for me since my knife work resembled an army of stick men. This is a knife I would like to try. Bookmarked for sometime in the future.
-
Personally I would use stitching because the bag is stitched. It would take longer but the end result would look better and you wont have to worry about the edge of the straps lifting up or curling. If you wanted to use rivets or chicago screws you would need to make sure you match the thickness of the leather to the depth of rivet/screw or the strap would be loose and floppy.
I use rivets and screws, I have to have an assortment of sizes to match varying thickness of leather and still get a tight connection. I hope to get a sewing machine the same day pigs take flight. LOL
-
@rcsaddles are you sure it was tallow? It was more than likely suet. Tallow is rendered fat. I cant see a butcher processing the fat then giving it away. Suet is a good source to make tallow from unless you happen to have access to mutton fat. I am unsure why mutton is preferred to beef but it is.
For anyone looking for tallow, watch ebay. I bought 22-23 lbs of pure tallow for $9 from a culinary artist. He used it for carvings.
-
I have been using a straight pin, but with my big clumsy calloused fingertips it is hard to grab even one with the plastic ball. LOL. I had been using a dead ink pen for marking.
@reddevil I googled self-centering hole punch but came up empty. Does it use an edge guide, or somehow center on the mark? Can you provide a link?
-
Nice work. The gold gives it a nice touch.
-
I used my templates today. Absolutely awesome. I wish my tools matched those templates in quality. I do wish the holes to mark the buckle holes were slightly larger, but still one of the best investments I have made for leatherwork.
-
Ordered 2 sets today. I took advantage of the ebay sale. Thanks Sylvia.
-
I was recently contracted to make a show harness out of patent leather. Like an idiot I said sure no problem then realized I know nothing about patent leather other than it is shiny. I don't particularly like it myself and have never learned anything about it. If any one has any tips about working with it such as sewing, cutting, removing scuffs, folding, gluing or anything else I would greatly appreciate your knowledge.
-
LOL Sylvia I will take any help offered. I failed to properly explain what I was trying to do. Other than the splitter I got for braiding, I have very little in the way of leather tools. Alternate ways of doing things are always welcome.
-
Bruce Thank you. Do you suggest another tool for cutting a channel across a strap?
Sylvia I have a Campbell splitter that I use for taper skiving belt ends. I love it. I am actually only trying to remove enough leather for the ring to snuggle into across the strap. That was why I bought the 1/4" french edger to begin with, I sure do hate to modify a brand new decent tool. Well it will be decent once sharpened. LOL
-
I recently started using them. As much as I try to shy away from Tandy stuff I found the tools and crystal rivets to work well as long as the leather is the right thickness for the rivet. The problem I have is trying to find rivets for the thinner leather projects. I dont want to have to add washers to create the right thickness.
Ebay offers tandy stuff cheaper than tandy does unless you are one of the premium gold members.
-
I never thought about that for the rivet holes. Thanks Sylvia. I have tried a skiver but it seems to cut too wide and shallow. I have the silver tandy skiver so I cant bend it like I have heard of people doing with the black one.
-
I just bought a new french edger having only seen vids of their use and descriptions on the forum. I am afraid I bought the wrong tool. I was expecting the toes to be angled so the cutting edge would furrow to a specific depth and cut a channel. I am wanting to thin the leather of a strap so it will fold flatter around a ring. what tool should I have bought? Can I file and smooth the toes to an angle so it will do this? Thanks
-
Thank you. I am getting to the point I need a machine from time to time and am trying to decide on the machine.
-
Lift the foot and move it back or just turn the work around and stitch back?
-
Can it to a back stitch, or do you have to turn your work around?
-
WOW! That is beautiful. Probably works better than my 5 for $3 mini knitting needles too. LOL
-
Thanks for the pic. I may have to rely on stitching and use spots or tubular rivets for the asthetics instead of combining the 2 functions.
@stelhrse I dont know if it will help but the catalog Hanson Rivet has can give you some information. Its available for download as a .pdf
-
Those are my first choice but I dont know what the back side of the finished rivet would look like. Do you have a pic of the back side of a finished rivet?
@spence I had not thought of that. that might work.
-
@busted What rivets would you use for a finished look on both sides?
-
I have a project coming up (strap harness) that I plan on riveting together and using a little hand sewing. I have been researching rivets. Solid rivets seem to be the way to go but I am worried about the rivets on inside of the straps chafing either from the washer edge or the peened rivet. Also the requested metal color is nickel. I found tubular rivets with rivet caps at Hanson Rivet. They are basically a solid rivet with a small tubular section at the end for peening inside the rivet cap. These appear to be just the ticket as the cap will cover the peened end. Has anyone used these type rivets or dealt with Hanson Rivet? I emailed them Frday and hope to hear from them tomorrow.
-
If you are not using a core, I have found a crown knot to be both functional and decorative. If using a core, the lace needs to be bound to the core, then a turksheads braided over it. Or if braiding through a ring there is another method that has been talked about in the braiding forum in a couple threads. They should appear on the first page. I braid but dont go through rings so dont feel qualified to give the information on those methods.
-
It is a piece of brass. He used brass because it was a piece he had laying around and wont leave possible stains the way steel would. I used aluminum on my beveler. Both are soft metals so they are easy to hand machine (cut with a coping saw and file). I have done away with the little finger because using it limits you to the thickness you can bevel. Instead I set the depth of the cut with the guide then lay an old credit card over the leather to keep it pressed down in front of the blade. doing this allows me run almost any thickness of leather through the beveler.
Black River Laser Is Awesome
in Suppliers
Posted · Report reply
I contacted them for a complete custom makers stamp. The price for a regular stamp was $20 for a 1" stamp. Price for a complete custom stamp was thirty five dollars. By custom I mean they couldn't take the existing blank stamp and just add name and location, they had to cut a custom graphic logo also. it was a total rework of design. They can be used with the Tandy hefty handle or arbor press. I do plan having them make me one in the near future.