VanRhodes

Gregg got back to me, saying it looked like a broken tapered pin in the rocking shaft and upon closer examination it turned out he was right. I broke out the dremel and some hardened steel bits and drilled the tapered pins to relieve them, and could then continue to hammer them out of the sockets. I temporarily affixed the rocking shaft by inserting temporary pin in to the socket to test the function and it appears to be working rather smoothly now. Next stop is the Keystone Sewing webshop to order some parts, might as well order a couple of tapered pins while I'm at it

Weird. Try now, I changed them from private to unlisted. Dont know why they ended up as private though, must have been some preset that was saved from an earlier upload,.

I picked up a singer 7-33 yesterday from a local guy here in Stockholm yesterday, honestly, I never thought I would have that much luck scoring a 7-33. As expected, its a bit of a fix-er-up. I'll need to clean her up good and buy a new thread take up spring and a new thread guide for the thread tensioner and I plan to get those through Gregg. But upon further inspection I noticed something weird and I wanted to check with any of you guys that has experience from the 7-33 if this is the way it should be. Please see linked video. (Sorry about the standing video format) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb2zECk0ESg It would seem to me, that the connecting shaft between the end that goes to the eccentric feed and the lifter for the inner foot should be a one piece shaft. e.g if it moves on one end, the other should move as well. But this is clearly not the case at the moment. Is this the way it should be? The second issue I'm having is that the outer foot, or the vibrating/walking foot, is dragging behind and really isn't moving as its supposed to do as is evident in the following video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBDwkJBpYAs Being very new to the machine I'm not quite used to the mechanic's involved and I have this far failed to find much in the way of useful information regarding these issues so any help from you guys would be greatly apprechiated. Thanks in advance.

Do you have a close up picture of the feed dogs? I scored a rather nice Adler 20-7 a couple of years back(wich also has a SIMANCO shuttle race btw) and it appears you do not have the original feed dog. The Adler 20 is compatible with several of the Adler 120 parts, feed dogs included, with the difference that the feed dogs for the 120 is a little taller, thus protruding higher above the needle plate. If you look closely on the Adler 120 you can see that the needle plate is slightly thicker to mitigate this.

Thats an Adler 20-2. Other classes in the 20 series are 7, 7B, 8 and 20 I think. Good machines over all, very durable and heavy duty with a snap-foot. I believe the 20-2 uses 794-system needles and will clear about 1/2 under the presser feet. I have the Adler 20-7 wich I am very happy with for heavy sewing, though I wish it would have a walking foot.

Damn, my bad. You are of course correct Shoepatcher. I forgot that the 20-2 does not have the extra high presser foot lift.

Yeah, what they said. Video and pics please!

The post Shoepatcher mention is my thread about the Adler 20-7 that I am rebuilding http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57747 The Adler 20 class use the longer 1000H needles and not the shorter 794 system, these needles are somewhat harder to source but can be ordered from college-sewing. Id love to see pictures of your unit if possible.

PEI: What type of information are you looking for?

Trox: Thanks for the intel, I will have another look at everything and properly inspect it as soon as time allows for it, at the moment I have some pressing matters that I need to finish up so there's really not alot of time for troubleshooting but I do greatly apprechiate your efforts in helping me out! Thanks alot!

amuckart: Thanks alot! My NPS is pretty much the same inside minus the third disc for counting the RPMs. This atleast confirms my suspicion that the NPS is simply checking the need up and down pos and nothing else, meaning the amount of gears or pulleys in between the motor and machine shaft doesnt matter one bit. Trox: Thanks for the clarification! I've been eyeballing on of the newer Efka units but I'm afraid its a little bit pricey right now, besides the Jack-motor with the timing belts and gears does offer plenty of control and power as it is, but I'll have to see if I can figure out why the NPS won't work as intended. When the NPS is activated and I turn on the control box, the servo moves a small bit, 1/4 or similar tops, and then stops and display the E5 error. I'm not sure why it does this but I will have to test and see what I can come up with.

Here's the system I am currently working on, showing the NPS mounted to the shaft of the head and the gears used to achieve the desired gear ratio.

amuckart -> what does your sensor look like internally? I am trying to get my NPS to work but I'm not having much progress yet even though I do hope to find out. Thanks to the very nice gear ratio of my current setup I get a 1:10 ratio so its still _very_ manageable, but I would very much like to have the NPS working properly as it will make the W-W patterns so much easier.

haha! I did not get that part of the manual included with my motor, thanks alot!

I figured I might as well try here in case anyone could actually read this. I'm coming up short within my normal circle of friends and I cant seem to find an english copy of the manual for the motor either and I'm getting an error code when I am trying to configure the NPS, E5 to be specific, but I have no idea what it says. Any help would be greatly apprechiated.

Singermania: Sorry for being late to the party but College-sewing has the 1000H needles in different sizes in stock.

Shoepatcher: I am certain the Pfaff 1245 is a very capable machine, but owning a 267-373 I do have a special love for this certain type, and I would very much love to get the 267 in its double needle version as well. But I guess I will have to search the used market for this. I find the simplicity, durability and easy service and tuning of this machine type specially appealing for the one-man shop as it lacks all the extra hi-tech stuff you usually find on automatic machines today. Granted those automatic features makes it nice in a factory or sewing line, but I really dont need it and it just adds layers of complexity to the service and maintenance.

Really sorry to hear about the 267-373 being discontinued. It's truly a good machine for it's intended use.

Keystone Sewing has an owners manual linked on their site, which is what you're looking for. http://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/252617fb090042b596a9d75313085e27 http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/OwnersBooks/Adler_267_Owners.pdf

The first digits, 12 in this case is the US-size of the needle, whilst the second is the metric size, nm:80 in this case.

As always my updates are few and far apart but last night I finally managed to meet up with a buddy who could help me machine the first set of timing gears to fit the machine. The small 12 tooth for the motor had its hole widened to fit the 13mm shaft and we also added a slot for the key. Perfect fit! The large 60 tooth wheel was also widened up to 17.5mm diameter and we added the four 6.5mm holes that will be used to couple it with a 27-tooth cog that will be machined next time, the 4 holes will also be used to attach the larger balance wheel that I will have to manufacture. Its kinda hard to see but we shaved off about 0.75mm on top of each tooth on the large 60-tooth cog so that each tooth would have a small ridge on each end to help keep the belt in place.

Sweet! Very well done and an extremely interesting project, I only wish you would have taken pictures during the process to allow us to follow that as well. :D

Constabulary: Thanks so much for the comparison, would you say the bobbin for your 133 holds more thread compared to the bobbin for the 20/7/45K? I ment an X and Y axis, similar to this: I would like it to be removeable though so that i can use it either as a straight stitch or computer controlled pattern sewing machine. I have a smaller Bartacker already (Juki LK-1900A-HS) but its only sewing with #69 thread and it would be rather neat to have a computer controlled heavy duty machine for those larger WW boxes and bartacks.

I too have such plans for the presser feet of my machine. Its progressing but slowly, I dont have alot of time to put into it at the moment and I dont have any machines of my own to work with metal wich makes me depending on other people and their busy schedule. But I have been test sewing with it basicly just testing it in different types and thicknesses of webbing and I am happy to say that I have no issue making perfect stitches with #6 cord(415) through 25mm of heavy webbing and I dont think I will have any issues with #8 cord(554) either. I've also been playing with the idea of building an X and Y axis with step-motors for the machine with the help of another friend of mine but thats a project for the future What type of bobbin is used in your 133 btw? Is it one of those very large normal bobbins and not a shuttle?

Very nice! Neat and smooth feeding and nice looking stitches as well!