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VanRhodes

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Everything posted by VanRhodes

  1. Haha, just like me. I delivered the answers required but did not bother to show my entire process in getting there and just like you, I have also worked as an artist of sorts(3D-artist) and currently designer and pattern constructor.
  2. Mikesc: Thanks for the lesson in math, I knew I missed something! Although we did end up with pretty much the same ratios as mine were only 0.01 off in both cases.
  3. If im not mistaken the first stage with a 40mm motor pulley going to a larger 150mm pulley will give you a ratio of 3.75(150/40=3.75:1), and the second stage going from 50mm to 150mm again will give you an additional ratio of 3:1. So, in speed, this means the first stage reduce your 1200rmp to 320rmp(1200/3.75=320rpm) wich is then divided in three as its passed on from the second stage giving you a final rpm of 106.66(320/3=106.6). This is about 2 stitches per second(1.77 to be exact), provided I have understood the math correctly. Very impressive work brother!
  4. Constabulary, thanks! Since the NPS isnt very expensive at all I'll just order one along with additional needles and parts when I do my next order, I will also get back with feedback on how and if its working.
  5. Constabulary: I see. I do recall Trox mentioning that the NPS for the Efkas were there to calculate belt slippage, but as far as I can tell the NPS for the Jack Servos use indicators on the drive shaft/pulley to indicate the needle up and down positions, thus any reducers in between the motor and the machine should be irrelevant to the function of the NPS since one revelation of the drive shaft equals one cycle of the machine no matter how many rpms the motor is doing. Atleast thats the way I have understood it. No matter what, the price for the NPS addon to the Jack motor is cheap so its not that much of a loss if it doesnt work. Yes, I have fixed gear reduction and the additional reduction I am building has a timing belt with tooths as well. a
  6. Constabulary: why would the NPS not work when using a reducer? I ordered mine without it but I am considering ordering an NPS to try it out.
  7. You could easily fit one of the JK-type servo motors on that stand, behind the machine head and have it power the macine. The 1hp version is real small and neat.
  8. Nicely done! What kind of paint did you use? Seeing this makes me regret I did not buy the 132K that I was offered a couple of years ago.
  9. Here's a comparison picture to show the difference with the newly modified hook compared to the original, un-modified hook(1st picture, last post). http://s18.postimg.org/wpjhjexw9/hookneedle1.jpg http://s13.postimg.org/ezbozxwlz/hookneedle2.jpg Its quite a difference as you can tell, wich also leads us to the next set of pictures comparing the distance between the hook and the needle when needle is at its lowest position. With the original, un-modified hook I somethings had the issue that is illustrated in the first picture where the hook traps the thick thread on its left side, between the hook and the needle not allowing it to loop in front of the hook as the needle begins traveling upwards. With the shortened hook I believe I wont be running in to this issue as its got plenty of clearance now. Original un-modified hook at the lowest point for the needle: http://s29.postimg.org/99g3w44p3/original_hook.jpg Modified shorter hook at the lowest point for the needle: http://s30.postimg.org/6gry9gar5/needle_lowest.jpg
  10. I've been having some sporadic issues with skipped stitches ever since I got the machine running and sewing. I partly managed to remedy this by futher tighting the cam to the drive shaft and by adjusting the needle to shuttle hook distance. However, I have long been of the impression that the hook is way to far advanced in its cycle in relation to the needle as you can see in the picture below. The normal way to fix this would be to adjust the height of the needle bar(wich I cant, its already as high as I can get it) or adjust the rotation of the hook around its axiz(wich I cant, since the drive shaft and shuttle carrier are both pinned), but since I have an extra hook I figured what the heck, I'll just shorten the hook by about 2mm and to see if it works better. Below is a before picture with the area to be grinded off is marked in red so you can see how much I took of the hook. I have the hook installed and will do some more test sewing over the coming days to see if it did anything to help with the problem but this far its been working pretty good.
  11. Thanks for the heads up Constabulary! Greatly apprechiated!
  12. Sweet! Great video! I believe youtube sometimes mess up the quality of it. Vimeo is often a better choice.
  13. Yeah, I am aware of what you are saying but that wasnt the issue at hand here. The feeding direction was opposite of the shuttle rotation/tensioning of the thread via the take up lever so to speak. Its hard to properly explain it, but the cycle of operation isnt identical if you spin it forward or reverse, if you rotate it in the wrong direction and try to form a stitch the take up lever will try to apply tension to the stitch before the thread has passed around the shuttle, thus tearing the thread.
  14. I picked this Adler 20-7 up about a year ago but havent been able to spend as much time and money on it as I would have liked to so the rebuild has been taking longer than expected, but its progressing steadily. Cleaning it up and removing decades of grease and dust took its fair share of time even though it was relatively easy when done with chemically pure gasoline. One thing that was weird with this machine was the fact that it was feeding in the opposite direction, I dont know if its been modified or if there was some mistake made when they swapped the shuttle race for a Singer made unit instead of the original Adler. This had me quite confused for a while and I figured I might as well try to remove the cover plate from the stitch regulator and see if it would feed the other way when I move the regulator to the top, much like you would to put a normal machine in reverse. Luckily for me, it did so this seems to have solved this issue for me. I have temporarily rigged it up to the original table as I have failed to find a good retailer that has unit stands at a reasonable pricing. The local retailers in sweden are asking a little to much for a stand in my opinion and college sewing is refusing to ship stands outside of the UK. So for the time being, its still on this old, oversized stand. I have some issues with the cam not staying in its position despite being pinned and screwed on there, perhaps the shaft has taken some damage during its years in use. I fixed the screw with loctite wich held it quite well in place for a time but I recently noticed it had began shifting a little causing additional skipped stitches. Any tips or trix to remedy this would be greatly apprechiated, otherwise I am considering having someone weld it in place. Below follows some more pictures of it in its current state. Visible in these images are the temporarily mounted Jack servo motor wich is actually quite capable of running the machine. Also visible is the timing belt and cogs that I ordered and will modify to fit the motor and machine for a 10:1 ratio, this will make the machine more than manageable when sewing. AndreNL was nice enough to ship me new feed dogs that works very well and offer more contact against whats being sewn(Sorry about not having shipped the smaller one back yet, will do it soonest possible) http://s3.postimg.org/gmkwoljub/adler20_7_20140816_2.jpg http://s12.postimg.org/3z2m0gl3x/adler20_7_20140816_3.jpg http://s27.postimg.org/ocup4ap7n/adler20_7_20140816_4.jpg http://s3.postimg.org/bhoakpwab/adler20_7_20140816_5.jpg http://s21.postimg.org/k4nddwp87/adler20_7_20140816_9.jpg Here's a few pictures of the 3d printed prototypes for the new presser feet that I will have a buddy machine for me. They should suit my sewing better than whats on there now. http://s14.postimg.org/6fpev8t4x/adler20_7_20140816_6.jpg http://s21.postimg.org/k0tjxnjqv/adler20_7_20140816_7.jpg http://s1.postimg.org/har8s25lr/adler20_7_20140816_8.jpg
  15. Looking forward to seeing your pictures and video! I love you'r restoration threads
  16. The thread take up lever is controlled by a cam that is pinned to the drive shaft, same goes for the shuttle and its drive shaft so I doubt that I would be able to affect the timing on any of those components. I will have to study the parts diagram again and see though. Had I been able to affect the position of the shuttle like you would on a normal sewing machine it would have been a rather easy fix, but all of this is locked in position with pins. Will have to test other options.
  17. @Constabulary: I am fully aware that is the way its supposed to be, but this picture wasnt taken at that point in the needle cycle either. This is just before the needle begins its upwards motion again and the needle bar is as high as I can physicly set it on this machine. Most of the time its's working as it's supposed to do but then again, there are some missed stitches so I will have to fine tune it in some way that doesnt involve moving the needle bar further up.
  18. Not yet, I do hope they will come soon though
  19. I believe this is what's happening when it's skipping stitches but I'm not sure how to fix it.
  20. I dont have the thread tension set very high at all, but I have tried a few different settings and I dont believe this to be the issue as I havent experienced any major differences with higher/lower tension. I am fairly certain its related to a hook/needle issue as it seems the hook doesnt always cycle all the way back in its travel but rather stays on top of the thread that should loop, thus stopping it from looping.
  21. No, it must not be around 45 degrees. I believe one the main reason for this placement on commercial tables is because it allows you to tilt the machine head backwards and easily slip the belt of for replacement. I have seen tables using a very long V-belt where the axis of the motor was perpendicular to the axis of the drive shaft in the sewing machine as well, so placement seems to be very free in that sense.
  22. Sorry to hear about the flood damage My needlebar is adjusted the same way yours is and I have been fiddling around with the height a little bit trying to base my work on what little information I could find in the manuals/docs I have. The most relevant information I had for needle bar adjusment is in an Adler 120 manual and it appears that isnt fully translateable to the Adler 20. It says that I should set the needle at the lowest point, add the needle gauge and clamp(7 or 8mm), then remove the clamp and turn the handwheel until the clamp touch the "roof" and comes to a stop. In this position the upper edge of the needle eye should align with the lower edge of the hook. However - I cannot adjust it like that because it will render the needle bar to be adjusted to high meaning the needle clamp will touch the bottom of the arm during it's upward travel, stopping the machine from completing its cycle. So I will have to continue my search for a remedy and see what I can find in this area. Adjusting the needle to shuttle relation on the Adler 20 is rather easy though, way easier than swapping out the shuttle. There's a large screw fixing the shuttle race to the shaft and under side of the machine, unscrew this partially and you can knock the shuttle race gently with a rubber hammer or similar to move it back and forth to adjust the sideways distance from hook to needle. In wich way are your hooks different ? The issue I'm having is that the machine sews fairly well in softer types of webbing but when its harder there are occasionally skipped stitches. Its like its not looping the way it should on the underside thus preventing the hook from catching the thread.
  23. @Catskin, I checked my machine and the timing marks align perfectly. http://instagram.com/p/qAEQIORG-k/%C2'> I still have some issues with skipped stitches, I guess those are somehow related to the current adjustment of the needlebar and the needle to shuttle relation. It appears to me the information in the available manuals cannot be used to properly set up the needle/hook relation so I will most likely have to go by feel and test my way forward on this. How is yours setup? I cannot adjust my machine so that the eye of the needle is at the lower edge of the hook as they pass each other and it would be interested to know how yours line up.
  24. @Constabulary: Sorry, I began writing my reply before I noticed you edited your last post. My machine is an Adler 20-7. I do have that front foot as well but I dont use alot and as I said I will be making a new set of feet for this machine.
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