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rktaylor

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Posts posted by rktaylor

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I don't want to start a range war, but I am asking anyway. Most of my reference material says to put the swell cover on before the rigging plates. I suppose the reasoning is based mostly on ease of repair. Is there a compelling reason why I should install my riggings before my swell cover? It's a Will James tree (13" swells) with a flat plate rigging if that matters.

    Randy

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Keith,

    Thanks for the feedback. I did the other side of the cover and I think it is much better. It is tighter at the top and bottom. I need to make sure I get a better stitch line along the welt so it is more uniform. I wasn't paying enough attention, because I knew it was just practice. I re-read the section in Harry Adams' book. It makes more sense after a little practical experience. At least now, I have a better idea of how to fit the whole swell cover and the little things that I need to focus on.

    Right now I have to finish my design for the cantle back so I can tool it. Then I will get back on the swell cover. I might even make some spur straps in between to rest my mind.

    Randy

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  5. Posted · Report reply

    I already messed this cover up, but decided to use it to practice welts. Since my welt is not very good, it looks like I made a wise decision. That doesn't happen often. I tried to keep the welt as low as I could and I know I am not as tight at the top as I would like to be. The part that concerns me is the bottom. My kneejerk reaction is that the bottom is wrong, but maybe the top is keeping the bottom from being tight. Thanks for any help.

    Randy

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  6. Posted · Report reply

    Bruce and CW,

    Thanks for the leads. I will check them out. According to Jeremiah Watt, I need some Horseshoe Brand tools. Maybe he will throw in some conchos if I order some.

    Bob,

    You're talking my language. I was actually thinking about having the local machine shop make some internally threaded shafts like you describe and just replace the entire bolt. Are you putting conchos on both sides or just the outside?

    Randy

  10. Posted · Edited by rktaylor · Report reply

    I salvaged this (at least as far as I know). I skived a little next to the cantle where it wasn't laying as level with the cantle as I wanted. I installed the cantle filler and glued it the back. After I trimmed it (my Rose round knife that I got from Bruce Johnson is pure gold) to the desired width, it looks pretty good by my standards. It's flared out at the sides some, but the top is pretty level without notching it. When I get done, what it's shaped like is what I wanted. Ha.

    Keith,

    I don't quite follow what you mean on the pattern, but was planning to cut the next one pretty straight across the bottom like Ron says. It was definitely too loose across the top, so I hope to get the next one a little tighter.

    Thanks again for the help. I am doing more working and less head scratching on these saddles.

    Randy

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Here's a photo of the pattern. I cut it fairly square across the bottom and then fit it like the Jeremiah Watt video. It's bigger than necessary, but the first one I cut was too small. I think I will make this one work. It looks better this morning, than I originally thought. Buying three sides was good advice, but I don't think I will have enough left for a scabbard.

    I still have another one to do (on the wife's saddle), so this advice is helpful.

    Randy

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  13. Posted · Edited by rktaylor · Report reply

    Well, Jeremiah Watt says, "If you've done it right, it will just roll over." I guess I didn't do it right. This is the second one I have glued on and the third one I have cut out. I have part of it like I want, but not all of it. The glue is breaking loose but maybe it's not as bad as I think. It is also not as flush with the cantle as I would like. Maybe I should hammer it more. I have more leather and am not opposed to cutting another one.

    Sorry about the rotated photo. Thanks for any advice.

    Randy

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  15. Posted · Report reply

    Ron,

    Let's deal with the last question first. The stirrup leathers are 2 1/2 inches. I thought the same thing about the front riser. My primary references are Harry Adams' book and Jeremiah Watt's DVD. Both of these are based on a Wade tree. This looks more like how JW does it. However after three attempts at a metal seat strainer over the weekend, I may do an all leather seat.

    I think you are right about my rigging placement. I don't have my hardware yet, so I was just planning. I figure poster board is cheaper than leather.

    Oltoot,

    I was confused, then thought I understood, but alas realized I was still confused. My thoughts behind the one piece top it that I can get it to fit right and do all my tooling on it. I can cut the bottom piece larger, then block it. I can cut it to match the top after they are glued. This seems pretty easy to me, but that could be because I don't know what I am getting into. I was going to make the top piece out of 13-15 oz and the skirt out of 10-11 oz. So I thought this way would be fairly strong. Maybe a lot stronger than it needs to be.

    CW,

    I think I will end up a bit smaller that these. I just wanted to make sure I had enough leather around the bars to block. Once, I get my rigging plates this week, I can really see where I want to place them. I haven't given up on a light weight, but I have tempered my expectations some. The bottom line is I don't think I can leave enough leather out to keep it light and still end up with the saddle I want to build.

    I know Stohlman's V3 has the in-skirt rigging, but I only have the first two volumes. I still have a lot of questions, but I will try to ration them a little to ease the load on everyone here and maybe increase the uptake by me. Thanks for all the input and advice. Even if I don't take it, it's still valuable.

    Randy

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  16. Posted · Report reply

    I have started working on a barrel saddle. Based on feedback regarding building a lighter saddle, I decided to go with a skirt rigging. Any comments on the pattern? I put some dimensions on the pattern. These may appear skewed since the poster board is not pulled up tight to the tree all the way around. What about the dimensions? Is there too much or not enough clearance from the tree? I am planning on a 3/4 rigging. I have a #13 ring rigging ordered from Sheridan.

    The pink line would be the intended edge of the top skirt for the rigging cover. I am working off the style that Bob Brenner posted in another thread. I hope he doesn't mind me sharing it again here so you don't have to look for it. My plan is to cut the bottom skirt oversized and then match it to the top after it is blocked.

    Thanks in advance,

    Randy

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  17. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for all the input. Truth be told, my wife would probably prefer new kitchen chairs over a saddle. But I am not making chairs. Like most of them, she tolerates a lot and smiles through most of it.

    I was leaning toward an in-skirt rigging, so you have convinced me to go that way. I will post some skirt/rigging patterns when I start working on it to make sure I understand what you are saying related to riggings. I like the idea of leaving a space on the skirt between the front and rear rigging. I bet, based on projected usage it will last longer than 25 years.

    I get what you are saying on the Bowden tree. My first saddle was on a Batie tree, so I am looking for comparisons. I also have a Quality tree ordered for a saddle I am building for me (you see where my priorities are). I had a friend who was going to order Timberline, so I would have a good sample to look at. He hasn't got off high center yet so I won't get to touch one of those for awhile. I wanted the barrel tree, because I live in a college town with lots of cowgirls. I figure if I ever want to sell saddles, I need to tap into their dad's money. haha

    I was thinking about buying a side of 10-11 ounce HO, but am going to wait until I know what else I need to save on shipping. Since Oltoot told me to order 3 sides of heavy skirting for my saddle, I have some left that could be used for some of this saddle. I think 2 1/2 inch stirrup leathers and was considering half leathers. I don't know about going down to 2 inches. It's hard to build something light when you have a tendency to overbuild everything.

    There will be a lot of tooling practice for this saddle because I have a floral pattern in mind. Maybe I should start this weekend.

    Thanks again.

    Randy

  18. Posted · Edited by rktaylor · Report reply

    I am planning to make a saddle for my wife. It will just be used for trail riding. I have a BWBR tree ordered from Bowden. The two primary constraints are:

    1. It must be comfortable (I'll take my chances here).

    2. It must be light. Her current saddle weighs just over 22 lbs. That's because there's not much to it. My goal is to stay around 25 lbs if possible.

    Questions:

    What is the lightest leather that you would recommend? I have some HO 13-15 oz that could be used for some pieces (ground seat, swell cover, ??), but thought I should have something lighter for the fenders, stirrup leathers, seat, etc.

    I was planning on a 3/4 in-skirt rigging, but could do a single O-rigging. Any thoughts on which is the best option to keep weight down? Which option would be easiest for a novice saddle maker like me?

    Thanks for any advice.

    Randy

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Do you want to do this as a hobby or a profession?

    I looked at a lot of saddle schools before I built my first saddle, but the bottom line is I did not have the time to attend one. I have a full time job already and was not looking for a new profession. If you are considering it as a hobby, I can offer my experience. However, I am a long ways from being a saddle maker and further from being a brain surgeon.

    Randy

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Ron,

    You know I do not have the trained eye that others do, but the 'flow' looks great (rear jockeys onto the skirts and the seat jockey). It all 'fits' together. I can see the issue you point out with the rear rigging but it certainly doesn't look bad. I see CW's point on the screw also. If either of those are your worst mistake, pat yourself on the back.

    I really like the tooling on the rear jockey. The way that you blended the border and basket weave with the floral design. Very nice indeed.

    Take some time to ride it before you start your second.

    Randy

  24. Posted · Edited by rktaylor · Report reply

    Thanks for all the feedback. Billy, you are correct, that I thought these were really smooth. However when they dried, they were not so smooth. I stopped rubbing initially because I though they were starting to get rough and I was concerned with over-burnishing them. Either that or I was getting tired of rubbing. I'll give them a little more TLC like Bob says. These are my fenders, so I will get a lot more chances to burnish them before they are installed.

    Randy

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I have started my second saddle and want to do a really good job on the edges. I have been following Bob Park's guide for the most part. I sanded the edges and edged with a #4 western edger. Then I wet the edges, applied Fiebings glycerin bar soap (liberally) and rubbed it with a piece of canvas coated with saddle soap. The edges seem pretty good, but I could probably burnish them some more. You can see in the two photos (the leather is damp in the first photo) that I am getting some soap on the surface and not just the edges. Is this a problem? Am I being too sloppy? I am not planning to dye the edges, but I think the surface needs to be cleaned before I oil it.

    Any advice is appreciated.

    Randy

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