Jump to content

rktaylor

Contributing Member
  • Content Count

    351
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rktaylor

  1. I am just starting #11. Thanks for reviving this thread. It reminds of some things that I've learned and others that should still receive focus. Randy
  2. Ed, Thanks for sharing your knowledge and now your work on this forum. There's a lot to like about that saddle. Randy
  3. I personally like a little more and consistent rise going toward the swells but that's a preference. Are you following Watt's method on the ground seat? I suppose Stohlman's method isn't a lot different if those are the two resources you are using. While the strainer is the foundation, you can still do a lot of shaping with leather (with a lot of skiving). I fit the liner under the front tabs, but make sure you have enough to stretch over the finished ground seat. Randy
  4. I like the photo with the mirror. Seriously Ed, thanks for freely sharing your knowledge. You explain everything so well. Dusty, keep us updated on your progress. RT
  5. There may be better methods, but this is what I did on my last saddle with a dee rigging. The riser ends near the bottom of the swell. The rigging is skived to match the riser thickness and then follows the front edge of the stirrup slot. It slides up under the ground seat. This is closer to a full position than 7/8. More experienced makers might frown on this, but it worked for me. Randy
  6. I'm going to back up and ask what your rigging plans are. You can't think about this one piece at a time. That's a mistake that I still make on occasion. Randy
  7. I think the dotted line on the swells is fine. I would have the riser at least 3/4" wide from the swell to the edge of the bar. That let's you keep the riser at full width along the stirrup slot and skive a transition for the ground seat. Sorry I don't have a photo. Randy
  8. I skive along the swells to create a smooth transition. I would arc the riser forward at the bottom to give you something to skive to create a transition there. Just curve it around the swell. I'm sure there are other methods, but that's what I would do. BTW, nice looking tree. Randy
  9. Janet, Please consider that I am novice at this stuff, but from my perspective it would have to be a pretty good customer or friend, before I would consider the project. I will start by assuming you don't want to tear it down completely and send the tree for repair. If so, I would want to remove the swell cover and get at the heart of the matter. It looks like the metal fractured at the front of the horn, so that could create problems. I believe you can reattach the horn and fiberglass the swells around it. That would give it strength for trail riding, but I would be concerned that someone might try to rope in it. Maybe that's just the people I hang out with. The swell cover also looks damaged, but if you get the horn repaired you can hide that by wrapping the horn with latigo or mule hide. I would also caution that you need to be confident in the repair (even with caveats to the customer) because it is leaving your shop as a repaired saddle. The bottom line is that I would have more time in the saddle than it's likely worth. That's why it would have to be a good friend or customer. Good Luck, Randy
  10. Like John, my fenders are based on the Harry Adams book, or some variation. I basically have two patterns that look very similar; one is just an inch wider (based on a customer request). Randy
  11. I think the 9/10 should be fine. Randy
  12. Depending on the size of the hole and leather weight, you may be able to plug it with a leather 'thread'. Use a strip of leather from a stitch groover to thread needle. Pull it through the hole and trim it flush. I've used this on a saddle skirt and it blended in really well. You could find the mistake hole if you knew where to look. Randy
  13. Ron, Thanks for the tips. Thankfully it is warming up. I am not built for weather like we experienced. toswood, The breeching strap has a good, round edge and I think it's more flexible than the photo shows. However, I will tell the customer to watch it closely. This is a for a riding mule that likely won't see a lot of action, but it's worth noting. Thanks for the advice. I'll share some pictures with the mule saddled if I get a chance. Randy
  14. Ron, Thanks for the tips. I considered both orientations and settled on lengthwise, but am not sure why. I'll think of something to blame it on. I really appreciate your notes. I haven't typed anything yet, but I made a lot of measurements yesterday and will definitely document this project. I plan to deliver and adjust this later in the week, so we'll see how it fits. I am concerned that the straps may be too long. If so, I may just build another spider with new straps. It's all trial and error at my shop. Randy
  15. I ended up making my pattern. I need to consolidate my notes so the next one will be easier. Randy
  16. Ed, Thanks for the cantle binding tip. I like that tool. I antique a lot of projects, but haven't done a saddle. Maybe it's time. John, This saddle was built to team rope. The customer ordered the tree to his specs so the bars should be fine. The horn is a 3 1/2" TD with 1 1/2" cap. Thanks for all the feedback. Randy
  17. Thanks Ron, I'm getting better at ground seats, that's for sure. The rear jockeys ended up shallower than I would prefer, but they needed to line up with the front jockey. Both will be a little deeper on the next saddle. Randy
  18. Ron, Thanks for the feedback. Actually built it for a repeat customer, so I'm anxious to have him pick it up. Looking forward to the next saddle to hopefully correct some errors. Randy
  19. Thanks for the compliments and critiques. I need to check the bottom of the braid. I think the top is finished correctly, but the bottom is definitely off. I had already decided that the effort of this braid does not translate to better appearance, so I won't be using it again. You are correct. I thought I had it pulled around, but it may have slipped back before it was nailed. I believe I can fix it before the saddle is delivered. Randy
  20. Here's #10. Swanke tree and HO leather. The seat is 14.5" with 13" swells and 4" cantle. I've still got a lot of room for improvement, but the process is fun. Comments, critiques, suggestions are welcome. That's what helps me improve. Randy
  21. I'm making a breeching for a mule saddle and wondered if anyone had a pattern to share. I have a concept and an old harness to look at, but any information would help. Thanks, Randy
  22. Morgan, I'll echo the praise on a first saddle. It looks great. I appreciate you sharing your work and the open critiques. It helps us all learn and that's why I frequent this forum. Looking forward to seeing the second saddle. Randy
  23. Well done Ryan. I enjoy following your progress. Randy
  24. That looked really easy. I think I would be a little more challenged. Randy
  25. Does anyone have information on Davie Jones saddles? I'm doing some repairs on one and was curious. Thanks, Randy
×
×
  • Create New...