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Everything posted by rktaylor

  1. I have used veg tan to line breast collars, but that was mainly because that's all I had. They are holding up fine, but I doubt they will hold up like harness leather. More recently I have been using 5-7 oz latigo to back 13 oz HO. I really like that thickness for roping gear. I have been using 3-4 oz veg tan to line headstalls made with 7-8 oz veg tan. That's because I don't have latigo that light and I don't want them too thick. I preshape the outer pieces before gluing the liner. That keeps them from wrinkling too much. I look forward to seeing the final product. Randy
  2. Clyde, Thanks for sharing. I really like Will James saddles. Your work inspires me to do better. Randy
  3. Mike, Nice looking saddle. I like the dragonfly and cattails. Kudos for trying some new things like the inlaid seat. I haven't worked up the courage to have exposed stitches on cantle binding, but I will have to tackle it at some point. Thanks for sharing. Randy
  4. Ron and Ron, Thanks for the comments. I have my seat formed and ready to glue down, but I think I am going to make a paper pattern. Then I can compare the two before I glue it in. Maybe I'll learn something. I have only built swell fork saddles. It would be interesting to see if people think one method is better suited for this style. Unless really pressed to change, I probably won't. Randy
  5. In Jeremiah Watt's DVD, he cuts his seat pattern while fitting it to the tree. Makes the pattern on the left and transfers it to the right. In Harry Adams' book, he makes a paper pattern on the saddle and uses it to cut the seat. I have been using JW's method. Which method do you use? What are the pros/cons of each method? Thanks, Randy
  6. Ron, Nice clean looking saddle. As usual, I like your tooling. That looks like a meticulous job to keep the flower spacing as well as you did. I made some seat templates from a couple saddles that I like. I am hoping they will give me a little more guidance in the future. When are you starting on #4? Randy
  7. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. The Cowboy 4500 and Cobra 4 both have optional accessories. Any thoughts on these? They seem reasonably priced for everything that's included, but I don't want to buy a bunch of stuff that I don't need. Thanks, Randy
  8. Yetibelle and Big Sioux, Thanks for the comments. That's the type of information I am needing. Randy
  9. I am getting really close to taking the plunge and purchasing a sewing machine. Thus I am looking for some advice on features. I don't want to start a debate on pros/cons of manufacturers, I just want to know the right questions to ask. I am making saddles (working on the 5th) and tack mostly, but may use it for other items that I didn't want to make because I have been hand sewing everything. I am guessing that the thickest item I plan to sew is saddle skirts. It seems to me that 1/2" of clearance is not enough, but I just don't know. What about arm length/diameter? Needle and thread size is something I have not studied. Are there any upgrades or extras that I should consider? Any advice is appreciated. Randy
  10. Ron, Nice rig. Clean and balanced. I am glad to see you are finding time to work on saddles. If I remember correctly, this one has been in the works for a while. Randy
  11. Josh, Congrats on getting another one completed. I share your agony on the mistakes. It's tough to let some go when you know it could be better. I just ordered more leather for a swell cover that I couldn't live with. Thanks for sharing. I like looking at other folks work. Randy
  12. John, If I had a splitter, I would take it down to about 10 oz. However that's just a gut feeling on my part as I have no experience other than twisting 13/15 oz stirrup leathers. Randy
  13. Thanks Denise, I hope things are going well up north. Randy
  14. This is just my opinion and I am certainly not an expert. First, I think your pattern is too wide for the belt. The flowers run into the border. While you could probably make that work, they look crowded to me. Personally, I like the swirling flow that is typical of Sheridan tooling. Your design has 'hints' of that style, but it is also kind of linear. My suggestion is to consider the individual elements (leaves, scrolls, flowers, etc.) and how they flow together. Just my opinion. Take it for what it cost you. Randy
  15. John, I replaced the dee in its original position. I cut a small slot in the fleece (synthetic) just large enough to let me work. It was less than an inch. This allowed me to get the old rivet out and gave me enough room to work on the new one. Then I used some contact cement to glue the fleece to the skirt. I thought about sewing the fleece, but figured it wouldn't really help anyway. It was a pretty simple job. Randy
  16. I am starting to build a saddle on a Howard Council tree from Quality Mfg. I have researched Mr. Council a little, but am interested in learning more. Any information is appreciated, but of particular interest are his trees. Most of the ropers who have one of his saddles are very complimentary of it's fit and function. Does anyone know if he built his own trees? It looks like there is a Quality tree in the background of a video about him. Thanks in advance, Randy
  17. Well done. It looks fantastic. Randy
  18. That looks nice. I think you'll like the shorter one also. Randy
  19. Thanks Bob. That makes more sense. One more thing to learn. CaptQuirk, Yes I built the saddle. There are more pictures in the saddle gallery under "Small Ranch Saddle." Randy
  20. Bob, Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't quite understand it. What do you mean by halo? Can you attempt to clarify? Thanks, Randy
  21. Both sides are wrinkled the same, so it's balanced. Thanks for the comments.
  22. Thanks Billy, My buddy picked up the saddle today. I can't wait to see pictures of his grandkids riding pasture with him. Randy
  23. Thanks Ron. I need to buy a sewing machine. Good point Oltoot. I suppose I was being generous with the term. Randy
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