rktaylor

Well done. It looks fantastic. Randy

That looks nice. I think you'll like the shorter one also. Randy

Thanks Bob. That makes more sense. One more thing to learn. CaptQuirk, Yes I built the saddle. There are more pictures in the saddle gallery under "Small Ranch Saddle." Randy

Bob, Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't quite understand it. What do you mean by halo? Can you attempt to clarify? Thanks, Randy

Both sides are wrinkled the same, so it's balanced. Thanks for the comments.

Thanks Billy, My buddy picked up the saddle today. I can't wait to see pictures of his grandkids riding pasture with him. Randy

Thanks Ron. I need to buy a sewing machine. Good point Oltoot. I suppose I was being generous with the term. Randy

I rebuilt (used the tree) this saddle for a friend. He had a worn out saddle and wanted a little ranch saddle for his grandkids. The seat is 11" and he made the stainless steel stirrups for the saddle. He also wanted a basket weave, but I talked him into letting me add the oak leaves. Let me know what you think. Randy More pics

It's not floral, but I would entertain comments or critiques. Randy

Ron, Thanks for sharing. I've been thinking about something like the first two. That gives me some great ideas. Randy

I'm looking for some creative ways to attach the bit to a headstall. I don't want to use Chicago screws. I like the looks of this blood knot, but I don't think it will work on my next headstall. I dreamed up this choice, which is just a piece of latigo with a small hole punched through one end. I don't know if it beats tying a knot in it. Any ideas or examples of other options? Thanks, Randy

Hannah, I have not used the kit, but I think you will need three sides to account for the learning curve on a first saddle. I would also make sure the hardware with the kit matches with the saddle you want to build. I also suggest determining the source of the patterns. They may not match what you want to build, thus you will end up drawing your own patterns anyway. Randy

Hannah, You have already received a lot of good advice. I am not very far ahead of you on the trail. I am putting the finishing touches on my fourth saddle in about three years. So far for me, it has just been a fun hobby and like Big Sioux said it can be tough to find uninterrupted time to work on it. I have a tree waiting to start my fifth. Maybe I'll have it done before summer. For what it's worth, here's my advice for a first timer (in no particular order). 1. Build a slick fork. I put three welted swell covers on my second saddle before I was happy whereas it only took one on the SF Bowman I built first. 2. Buy three sides of good leather. This should be enough and as oltoot once told me, 'Build a scabbard with the leftover material." If you are particular about your work, you will make some mistakes that you want to do over. I had the same thoughts that you had regarding cheaper leather, but a third of your cost will probably be in the tree. Why cover it up with cheap leather. 3. Try to draw as many of your patterns as possible before you start cutting leather. All the folks who make saddles for a living have walls of patterns and that makes it easier to efficiently use a side of leather. I personally like Saddle Maker's Shop Manual by Harry Adams. It has really good instructions for drawing patterns. 4. Build a good ground seat. You can cover it up, but you can't hide it. Study this as much as possible. I personally think shape is infinitely more important than construction method (but remember, I am no expert). 5. Educate yourself as much as possible, but try to follow one set of instructions as best you can. Just as there are many ways to do it wrong there are also many ways to do it right. It's just that some of the different methods may not go together well. There's going to be a lot of head scratching and staring into space. Take a deep breath and study some more, post pictures and questions here. Responses usually come quick. I have thoroughly enjoyed learning to build saddles and continuing to learn. Enjoy the ride, Randy

I'm afraid I can't confirm that. Since I posted this, I had a friend tell me he used to stop by Baldo Hill's shop near Wellston, OK (which is west of Chandler as mentioned above). Wellston is along Route 66 just NW of OKC, so it is in the same general area. However, the different maker's mark would make me wonder. Randy

I have Bob Park's Western Floral Design and highly recommend it. There are other books more specific to Sheridan, but I don't have any of those. Randy

Thanks for all the advice. I used Evaporust to clean it, then a little buffing. I have a pretty good edge on it, but it could be sharper. One more thing to practice. Randy

Thanks zuludog. I lean toward sentimental, so does that make me patina or dirt? I do plan to use it, but I want to make sure I protect any value it may have. I probably got ahead of myself, but I have a pretty good edge on it now. I hope the steel is good enough to hold it. I also made a sheath, so my blade and fingers are safe. Randy

It seems like there's a lot of expertise following this forum regarding knives and steel. Any tips on cleaning/restoring this knife. I don't like the thought of using sandpaper that some sites suggest, but if that's the best way I will. Thanks, Randy

Thanks, I found Bruce's comments and have bought tools from him. It doesn't seem like there is a lot of information on Crawford knives. I thought the Newark, NJ mark was a good sign (and the fact that the store didn't know what it was). I got it fairly sharp today, but I need to get it cleaned up. I hope it holds an edge. Randy

A close up of the maker.

I just bought this for $40 at an antique store this week. They had it labeled as a mezzeluna knife. I have been looking for information on the maker, but haven't found much. I am wondering if I got a great or just a good deal. I'm going to sharpen it today and try to clean it up. Thanks for any insight into my purchase. Randy

Colt, I said mine was more crude. This photo should prove that. The carriage bolt goes through the entire maul. Thanks for sharing all your work. Randy

Colt, I was wrong. The head is 2.5" diameter and 3" long. The maul weighs 18.8 ounces. The delrin (acetyl copolymer) has really stood up to use. I'll post a picture when I can. It's very crude compared to yours, but it's better than a rock. Randy

Remember, the 3" piece is more than twice the volume of a 2" diameter piece so it's twice as heavy. I certainly don't want it to be heavier. I can get some details (dimensions, weight, and c.g.) and photo in the coming week if you are interested, but you are well ahead of me in the game. I really like what you are doing. Randy

Colt, I made one with 3 inch delrin (I don't remember the generic name) for the head and a walnut handle. I put a carriage bolt through the whole thing. It's not as nice as yours, but I have next to nothing in it and it has worked great for me. I've been using it for over a year now. I need to weigh it just for reference. Thanks for sharing all this. I'm almost inspired enough to build another one. Almost. Randy