rktaylor

I think the book talks about two different widths for the strap. I prefer the narrower version and use another piece shown at the top of the photo to distribute the pressure. I rarely use the wider strap. Randy

Thanks Josh and AzShooter.

Ron, Thanks. I appreciate the compliments. As you know, pushing an awl through five layers of leather and coming out at the right spot is tough. I really like the exposed stitches. This turned out fine, but I think I can do better. I would like to clean up my work around the seat ear, but this wasn't too bad. I'm looking forward to applying these lessons learned to the next saddle. I hope the leg is healed. Randy

Thanks Ron, I like the bead lines as well. It is a commission saddle. I like the prairie rose (Jeremiah Watt stamp), but it wouldn't be my top choice. It's about 4 months out for a Swanke tree. It was really nice. I have another Swanke tree that should arrive later this month. It's an Olin Young roper. I plan to take it to the Wichita Falls show in October. Thanks. I appreciation to compliment. Randy

Thanks. It's all Hermann Oak. The rough out is buffed and the rest is #1. Randy

Here's the latest saddle (#9). It's a 15" Will James on Swanke tree. I suppose there's always room for improvement, but I think it turned out fine. I still struggle with welted swell covers. There are a few other things I would like to do over, but not bad enough to actually do them over. Critique and comments are appreciated. Randy

Thanks for the advice. I'm looking forward to getting this off my inventory. Randy

Any advice on shipping a saddle? I just completed my first saddle that isn't staying close by. It seems like taking the fenders and stirrup leathers off would be a good idea. Maybe I should just get a bigger box. Thanks, Randy

I guess it depends on the store. I gripe a lot about not having a true hardware store. All we have is a national chain store. I order almost all of my stainless steel screws and nails from McMaster-Carr. I'm not sure what tools you want. Randy

Jared, I hoped some more experienced makers would have provided a critique. I am currently working on #9 so take my comments for what they're worth. Most of them may simply be a preference. First off, for a second effort, I think this is pretty good and I commend you for finding an experienced saddle maker to work under. Your stamping looks great. The basket weave is really uniform and the border is great. From what I can see in the pictures, the swell cover looks tight and the lacing is good. It looks like you take a lot of pride in your edges. The seat ears are obvious. I personally like saddle strings there instead of the screw. I just think it looks better. I also prefer a more defined seat jockey. It's probably a little harder to accomplish on a saddle this large. The front jockey looks like it could be cut a little shorter to align with the rear jockey, but that may just be the picture angles. If it were cut higher, the seat jockey would be more defined. From what I can see the rear jockeys seem tight against the cantle back, but not as tight against the skirts. This is certainly one area where I try to focus improvement. It's one of the first places I look when critiquing a saddle. Kudos on the exposed stitching on the cantle binding. That's a bold move for a second saddle and it looks like you did pretty good. Good luck on #3, I look forward to seeing it soon. Randy

I sewed 5 saddles by hand with this. I bought it at Panhandle Leather. Randy

I try to get a saddle out of two sides, but mistakes that I can't live with sometimes cost me. If you have your patterns before you start cutting, you can be more efficient. I pretty much stick to 13/15 Hermann Oak. I plug skirts just like Jeremiah Watt, leaving the space under the leg without plugs. I want to make sure the skirt corners have some stiffness. Good luck, Randy

Thanks to all. I'll do a couple test pieces as soon as I get a warm day. Randy

Thanks. I'm also curious about other methods of anyone wants to share. Randy

Thanks. What's your recipe and procedure for bees wax and olive oil? Randy

Thanks. I'll take the disclaimer into consideration. Randy

I am curious about how you oil a rough out saddle during construction since you don't want to oil the flesh side of the leather. The fenders are straight forward, but what about the seat and skirts? Do you give them a good oiling before gluing? I was thinking about oiling the skirts pretty good after they are blocked and before plugging. Then oil the seat pretty good before gluing it down. Thanks for your thoughts, Randy

As mentioned previously, the Panhandle folks are great to deal with. I've bought a lot (at least from my perspective) of leather from them. The HO they sell it's tannery run, so quality is variable. I've recently bought #1 HO from Goliger and Montana Leather. Both were easy to work with. I'm going to order a couple sides from Montana next week. Randy

Congrats. That's a nice looking saddle. Randy

I don't believe your thinking is completely flawed, but I'm not sure you're going to get a tree for the price you want. I don't know if you can buy an off the shelf mule tree. I suggest you check with Timberline and Quality Mfg. I used Quality trees on most of the saddles that I have made.I think they are currently $500 + shipping. I'm not sure about Timberline. I looked at them at the Prescott show last year and they looked really good. I'll certainly consider them for my next saddle. I would also consider how much bigger your mule will get and try to get the job done with one saddle. Just my 2 cents. Randy

I really like that headstall. Clean and ready to use for a really long time. Randy

Nice sheath and saddle. Your tooling is awesome. Good Luck at Prescott. I went last year and it was worth every penny and minute. The 1000 miles one way was a tough drive on an old man. Though it is 50 miles closer than Sheridan. Randy

Ron and Ken, I have a lot of tools from Lonnie and Clay. All are high quality. Bruce, I appreciate the offer. I am probably a month away from needing it. I'll check with you when it gets closer. Randy

Thanks YinTx. I have the 532. It lacks the crisp imprint that I want. Ken, I found those stamps this morning. I've never used JW stamps. Is it fair to assume they are comparable to Barry King or Clay Miller? It looks like the best option for now. Randy