rktaylor

Jared, I hoped some more experienced makers would have provided a critique. I am currently working on #9 so take my comments for what they're worth. Most of them may simply be a preference. First off, for a second effort, I think this is pretty good and I commend you for finding an experienced saddle maker to work under. Your stamping looks great. The basket weave is really uniform and the border is great. From what I can see in the pictures, the swell cover looks tight and the lacing is good. It looks like you take a lot of pride in your edges. The seat ears are obvious. I personally like saddle strings there instead of the screw. I just think it looks better. I also prefer a more defined seat jockey. It's probably a little harder to accomplish on a saddle this large. The front jockey looks like it could be cut a little shorter to align with the rear jockey, but that may just be the picture angles. If it were cut higher, the seat jockey would be more defined. From what I can see the rear jockeys seem tight against the cantle back, but not as tight against the skirts. This is certainly one area where I try to focus improvement. It's one of the first places I look when critiquing a saddle. Kudos on the exposed stitching on the cantle binding. That's a bold move for a second saddle and it looks like you did pretty good. Good luck on #3, I look forward to seeing it soon. Randy

I sewed 5 saddles by hand with this. I bought it at Panhandle Leather. Randy

I try to get a saddle out of two sides, but mistakes that I can't live with sometimes cost me. If you have your patterns before you start cutting, you can be more efficient. I pretty much stick to 13/15 Hermann Oak. I plug skirts just like Jeremiah Watt, leaving the space under the leg without plugs. I want to make sure the skirt corners have some stiffness. Good luck, Randy

Thanks to all. I'll do a couple test pieces as soon as I get a warm day. Randy

Thanks. I'm also curious about other methods of anyone wants to share. Randy

Thanks. What's your recipe and procedure for bees wax and olive oil? Randy

Thanks. I'll take the disclaimer into consideration. Randy

I am curious about how you oil a rough out saddle during construction since you don't want to oil the flesh side of the leather. The fenders are straight forward, but what about the seat and skirts? Do you give them a good oiling before gluing? I was thinking about oiling the skirts pretty good after they are blocked and before plugging. Then oil the seat pretty good before gluing it down. Thanks for your thoughts, Randy

As mentioned previously, the Panhandle folks are great to deal with. I've bought a lot (at least from my perspective) of leather from them. The HO they sell it's tannery run, so quality is variable. I've recently bought #1 HO from Goliger and Montana Leather. Both were easy to work with. I'm going to order a couple sides from Montana next week. Randy

Congrats. That's a nice looking saddle. Randy

I don't believe your thinking is completely flawed, but I'm not sure you're going to get a tree for the price you want. I don't know if you can buy an off the shelf mule tree. I suggest you check with Timberline and Quality Mfg. I used Quality trees on most of the saddles that I have made.I think they are currently $500 + shipping. I'm not sure about Timberline. I looked at them at the Prescott show last year and they looked really good. I'll certainly consider them for my next saddle. I would also consider how much bigger your mule will get and try to get the job done with one saddle. Just my 2 cents. Randy

I really like that headstall. Clean and ready to use for a really long time. Randy

Nice sheath and saddle. Your tooling is awesome. Good Luck at Prescott. I went last year and it was worth every penny and minute. The 1000 miles one way was a tough drive on an old man. Though it is 50 miles closer than Sheridan. Randy

Ron and Ken, I have a lot of tools from Lonnie and Clay. All are high quality. Bruce, I appreciate the offer. I am probably a month away from needing it. I'll check with you when it gets closer. Randy

Thanks YinTx. I have the 532. It lacks the crisp imprint that I want. Ken, I found those stamps this morning. I've never used JW stamps. Is it fair to assume they are comparable to Barry King or Clay Miller? It looks like the best option for now. Randy

I've bought a lot of Hermann Oak from Panhandle Leather. It's tannery run so the quality is variable. I've bought #1 from Montana Leather and Goliger. I haven't used Wicket & Craig. Randy

I looked in Weaver's catalog and didn't see one. I'll check the web page. Here's the Tandy version along with a Tandy basket weave in the bottom. I would like one with the definition of the Clay Miller basket weave in the center. I didn't get the number before I came in the house. Thanks for the help, Randy

Dusty, I can't help on the rigging question, but I recommend you expand your educational materials. I started off with Dusty Johnson's book , patterns and video and found myself staring into space and scratching my head a lot. I didn't have the knowledge to 'fill in that blanks' like I needed. I expanded my library to include Jeremiah Watt's DVD, the Stohlman series (which you can now get in a single book), Harry Adams handbook, and John Hopper's book. Harry Adams book is my top 'go to' resource. Please post anything you learn specific to rigging for a mule saddle. I am interested in the topic. Randy

I am needing a Hamley Prairie Rose (five petal) stamp for an upcoming project. I know the McMillen stamps are coveted and hard to come by. I checked with several tool dealers with no success. Barry King is making a replica, but does not have an estimated completion date. I have a Tandy version, but it lacks the clarity and definition that I prefer. If anyone has one that they are willing to sell/loan/rent, please let me know. Also any tips on where I should look are appreciated. Randy

This is the only one I'm aware of, but it does tend to move a little slow at times Randy

I would suggest no more than 6 spi for your first effort. However, I wouldn't go wider than 5 spi. You're taking about a lot of sewing. I can't even imagine using chisels. A cantle binding will be more than a half inch thick. I use thread similar to Goldshot. Randy

Vikefan, Thanks for sharing. Here's my version of your design. A little rough, but it works.

The John Hopper book has a lot of tack/accessory items and Big Sioux is correct regarding the bronc halter. I like the book, but it certainly isn't my "go to" book on very many things. A lot of the items lack detailed instructions and the bronc halter in the book is no exception. The vague description might be fine for someone with experience, but leave a lot to be desired for a novice. Big Sioux's advice on heavier, wider, and larger is consistent with Hopper's book. His dimensions were based on a large horse halter. Randy

The Tandy pattern also has a full length zipper, but I like the bottom plug at the barrel end. Thanks, Randy