Tejas
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Posts posted by Tejas
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The manual in the link below might help.
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The manual in the following link should help.
http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf
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The following Web site should show the model. If the x is a 6, then the model number seems to be 15.
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Any tips or stories for this or similar machines.
Perhaps not so much for leather, but you might find information or be able to get response from this forum.
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On my stool, on each corner I am considering not only gluing with contact cement, but also doing a two-needle running stitch and a double loop stitch around the edges to help further prevent tear out on the corners.
Since the requirement for reinforcement seems to be primarily at the corners and perhaps secondarily on the edges of the seat, since stitching is proposed perhaps lower weight leather could be used and reinforced at the corners and edges with a strip of leather that sandwiches 30 gauge clear vinyl.
I've used clear vinyl without failure on boat canvas to reinforce the setting of snaps and grommets.
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I'm always looking for projects for our grandson. This is definitely a next project.
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Actually, kudos should really go to member Gregg From Keystone who I think I recall originally posted this on another forum.
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What is a PM?
A PM is a private message. However, no longer necessary.
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If the machine is a Juki LU-562 or 563, send a PM and I'll send a .pdf of the manual that seems quite readable to me.
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Might not be correct but from memory of other posts on various forums, the -4 was made in Japan and the -5 is made in China.
Google searches should help clarify.
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I'm just beginning to sew leather and turning even soft leather from inside out has been a hassle. I've made several different prototype bags in heavy stiff-woven fabric that I've never tried in leather precisely because of that problem.
Most of my prior experience has been boat canvas, including sticky materials such as vinyl. Feed-dog and presser-foot marks were not a problem sewing sticky materials. Getting the material to feed was the problem but which can be mitigated by sandwiching the material in news-print. After sewing, the newsprint easily tore-away on the stitch line. I've read about feed-dog and presser-foot marks on leather and thought that if newsprint didn't work, I'd try cold tape and if that didn't work, electricians' tape, all both on the top and bottom if necessary.
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A compound walking-foot machine (aka, compound-feed, unison-feed, triple-feed) has both drop-feed (bottom-feed) and needle-feed (top-feed) with an alternating presser-foot (walking-foot).
Drop-feed is accomplished by a set serrated feed-dogs that grip the material between the feed-dog and the presser-foot. When the needle is lifted out of the fabric, the feed-dog raises out of slots in the base of the machine and moves the material. At the end of the movement, the feed-dogs drop and relinquish the grip.
Needle-feed is accomplished by moving the material with the needle when the needle is in the material as the needle follows essentially an elliptical path. Needle-feed also mitigates the tendency of lower layers of material to feed faster than upper layers with drop-feed machines.
The following links might be helpful. The YouTube video also shows the control possible with a servo motor and do click on "show more."
http://en.wikipedia....Feed_mechanisms
The following thread is excellent for understanding more about industrial sewing machines.
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The following link describes the 133K8 as a drop-feed, walking-foot machine -- lacks needle-feed.
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I really don't know, but pages 44 - 45 of TM 10-3530-202-10 for the Singer 111W155 might help.
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I've just started sewing leather and have been struggling with patterning material for a bag. I've been using brown contractor paper that comes in 35"wide rolls. I think I'd prefer something in sheets that is more ridged.
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Here is a manual for "Seiko Flatbed" sewing machines that covers resetting the clutch.
http://www.supsew.co...at=1105&kbid=87
Click on Seiko flatbed instruction manual
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Don't know if this helps but here is a link to the user manual for a Juki 5550-6
https://noisebridge.net/images/3/3e/Juki-ddl-5550-6.pdf
An engineer's manual from Juki would cost $5. Since the manual seems to be for both the -4 and -6, perhaps the manual above might be sufficient.
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Tenara is a sub-brand of Gore and is made of PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene). It seems to be a monofilament and does not seem to require as much needle tension as polyester. It is quite strong and cannot be cut with a hot knife.
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The following tip for searching was posted in the computer help forum.
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Send me a PM for a rather good pdf copy of the user manual.
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While perhaps not helpful in this case, here is a a link about a test of various penetrating oils.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-penetrating-oil-196347/
"A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated."
Penetrating oil ..... Average load
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
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This forum might be better oriented to your question.
What Do You Cut Leather With?
in Getting Started
Posted · Report reply
I use three tools:
For straight cuts -- an Olfa 45 mm rotary cutter on a self-healing 24" x 36" Olfa rotary pad
For curves -- Kai 7250 scissors
For some fine detail -- Olfa utility knife with various exchangeable blade styles