Sparks
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Posts posted by Sparks
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Has anyone had good results of thinning Tanners Bond Contact Cement (red label variety) with Barge Cement Thinner?
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I have been using Tanner's Bond contact cement (old red-label formulation) in my garage. I keep the glue container in the house so it is room temperature. I put space heaters in the garage to warm that up...it likes to stay at 40 degrees this time of year. It never gets anything like warm in the garage, but I still do my gluing out there bacause my wife is also very sensitive to the volatile chemicals. I open the garage doors a little while gluing to avoid a buildup of the vapors so the furnace pilot light doesn't ignite them. After a few minutes I shut the garage door mostly and run the space heaters (they are the oil filled type with no open heating elements). After a pretty short period of time I am able to bring the leather into the house...I put it upstairs and shut the door to finish curing. Seems most of the off-gassing of fumes takes place pretty fast, as my spouse has had no problems with the fumes. I wish I could say how long I leave these in the garage, but I can't remember if it is 30 minutes or two hours...I just go do something else for awhile and then bring them in the house.
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I just purchased a can of Barge Contact Cement to replace my red-bordered Tanner's Bond Contact Cement which was made by Barge. I am expecting them to be the same. I do have a question...the side of my old Tanners Bond Contact Cement (v-4085 red labeled) can says, "Thin with Tanners Bond Thinner." If they changed the formulation of the new Tanners Bond Contact Cement, did they also change the thinner? If so, should I be thinning with Barge Cement Thinner?
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Regarding cleaning the threads on your can lid...I haven't been and yes, I put the glue container (can) in a vice and use channel lock pliers to open the lid. Everytime I do this I wonder if the can is going to fail, but it hasn't so far. I have JUST learned a tip that if it works will be WONDERFUL! Regarding contact cement, put some Vasoline on the can threads to keep the lid from sticking. I can't wait to try this out. Meanwhile, I have received my 16 oz. plastic glue bottle from Springfield Leather.
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Here's a bunch of links to medeval images
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I've actually seen round knives on pottery and stonework from the first century...can't remember if it was AD or BC but when it's that old it doesn't matter much. Those round knives looked just like the ones we use now. I do have a leather workers knife that is different than what we are used to...see it at the following. Meanwhile, I'll look for more early images of round knives to post.
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Yes, I would very much like to have a look at your work.
The finish on the whole sheath, including the fringe is plain old leather dye.
Does your leather dye bleed (run) when it gets wet? If not, what did you dye it with?
Sparks
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I'm with Johanna, and don't mean to be harsh. But if the decoration affects all that beautiful sound that the luthier (guitar maker) has tried to accomplish by finding just the right pieces of wood, and it get significantly changed by the leather (i.e. "ruined") it would certainly need to come off. I think anything snug would alter the vibrations of the wood and consequently alter the sound. Mind you, it's a pretty decoration for those with tastes that way, but enhancing the appearance of the guitar should in no way be at the cost of the SOUND of the guitar. After all, people purchase sound recordings of guitar performances, not so much pictures.
Sparks
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Fascinating!
Sparks
A little tidbit of info on the name Portmanteau, as you probably already know it's a french word.....really a combonation of two french words.
Porte wich means "to carry" and manteau wich means "coat".......so litteral translation is "coat carrier"
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One of my favorite things to do is to look at the various galleries of our latest creations.
It's easy to appreciate the creative talent and excellently skilled craftsmanship.
However, it is NOT as easy to figure out what many of the projects are. Please include a name for your project! DCM060 (made up camera code name) doesn't cut it! Is your project a belt bag, checkbook cover or holster? Granted, many of those are pretty self explanatory, but I would say that a good 40% of what I see is beyond my scope of experience and with no hint in the caption or photo title I am lost. Plus, if I have to spend all that energy to (unsuccessfully) guess what you have created, I am less able to appreciate the craftsmanship.
A word to the wise is sufficient.
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A very fine portmanteau , nice pics! What is the weight of the leather ?
/ Knut
Knut,
I used a side of 10-12 saddle skirting. I have some left over, but not enough to make a second one. I followed the directions and made the straps out of lighter leather--6 to 8 weight. If I did it again I'd use the thick stuff for the straps.
I learned to skive putting this together. I also wet formed the end pieces over wood so I would have a face to sew directly to, rather than sewing diagonally through pieces cut at a 45 degree angle.
Sparks
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Indeed!
Garry Williams at Hanover Brass is one of my long distance buddies. I have bought numerous buttons from him, as well as buckles. I put NC Sunburst buttons on my shell jacket and wear a two-piece NC sword buckle to hold up 'accouterments.'
Sparks
I dunno if anyone has heard of this shop, but I have ordered buckles from this gent for some time now. when I want a period buckle for a belt. He does sand casts of original pieces so you always get a first or second generation replica. All his work is solid, not lead filled brass sheet. great work.
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Knut, Hello!
The end pieces have a rounded top, but started as an eight inch by eight inch square, not counting the folded over sewing space.
The length of the case itself is 24 inches. The cover flap is 26 inches wide so it can overlap either side one inch.
Additional images for details can be found in my gallery
http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=user&user=4989&do=view_album&album=591
Feed free to ask any other questions. I just noticed this message today, which is why it's been so long since you asked the question.
Sparks
Hello !
What are the measurements of your portmanteau ?
/ Knut
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Would someone please explain how and why to use a glass leather slicker. I have read the forums here and have found enough to realize this is a step I should be doing but not a lot of detail.
MCN,
I just got one of those myself and have yet to try it out. A buddy from this site forwarded me a web video on how to use one...here is a link to the Tandy site.
In addition, there are 32 additional leather craft videos on their site...look to the tan section of the menu bar to the right when at the site.
Sparks
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Than you very much for getting back!
Here's the original post I made on this:
http://leatherworker...?showtopic=4923
Then later I found a better way to mount the clamp, using corner brackets. You can see how that looks here:
http://leatherworker...?showtopic=6380
Kate
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I once had a book on the making of wallets and billfolds and lent it to someone to copy and never got it back. I recall it didn't have many fotocarve patterns, but that is no poblem because I make my own from a few Stolman books I have now. I've checked Tandy, Zack White Leather Amazon, Halfbooks dot com and e-bay to no avail. Can anyone steer me in a new direction? I would gratly appreciate it.
Thank you
Gheechee
Amazon.com has shows three available (at this point) titles of F.O. Baird...maybe one of these is what you're after. To avoid sticker shock, you might try getting the book in electronic form.
Leather Art by F.O. Baird (1949)
Leather Secrets by F. O. Baird
Design Artistry: A portfolio of original designs and how to design your own by F. O. Baird (1977)
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Kate,
If you find that tutorial point the way, please.
Sparks
Here's one I came up with a couple of years ago that might fit your need. I've got a tutorial around here somewhere to build one... it doesn't swivel but it's simple, clamps to a bench, and stores away neatly.
Kate
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That was my thought as well...
Probably had to have a farm wagon to haul it all home!
One key thing to notice is that the receipt seems to be to a Company rather than an individual.
I'm not sure what they bought, but they had money to spend, if they spent $117.19 back then at a leather shop. It's all I can do to spend that much now days.
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nice belt!
I finally worked up enough courage to show something I made.
This is a belt for my Mrs, Deb.
I was going for clean, elegant but robust lines. No fuss at all. There's no stitching, only creasing. This is the first thing I made using my new motorized burnisher for the edges.
The Art Nouveau buckle is a hundred years old.
The belt fastens at the back with a single snap and is fitted exactly to her size. She won't mind me telling you that, since the fit is so precise, I also made a small extender piece which snaps in, in case of Christmas dinner and other size altering events.
Cheers,
Karl
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Received the snap sack and market wallet several weeks back and wanted to say they are good quality and nice materials.
Thanks.
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Haw haw haw Luke,
I might have a hard hat around I won't use for awhile, but the cow's knee is going to PA with me the day after Thanksgiving for the hunt starting Nov. 29.
The rifle's already there.
We had snow most of the day here, but no real accumulation. The mountains are looking pretty white these days.
Sparks
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And thanks to all those who view my work, especially those who take time to download the images.
Sparks
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Thanks Big Steve!
You may have already noticed that motor cyclists have adopted the style and manner of use of this item. Portmanteaus came in different sizes. Bikers currently use them to carry tools immediately behind the drivers seat.
Soparks
Hey Sparks, this looks good for a first project would look good strapped to a harley nice job dude.
Regards, Steve.
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Thanks Luke!
Without the image you sent me to work from, it would have looked significantly different--and not nearly as nice.
So, how did that smart phone case turn out? Every 18th century reenactor needs a good 'period correct' smart phone case.
Super Sheen Taking Off Dye1
in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
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So in summary, you just buffed, redyed, let it set overnight before re-applying the finish...