Sparks

So in summary, you just buffed, redyed, let it set overnight before re-applying the finish...

Has anyone had good results of thinning Tanners Bond Contact Cement (red label variety) with Barge Cement Thinner?

I have been using Tanner's Bond contact cement (old red-label formulation) in my garage. I keep the glue container in the house so it is room temperature. I put space heaters in the garage to warm that up...it likes to stay at 40 degrees this time of year. It never gets anything like warm in the garage, but I still do my gluing out there bacause my wife is also very sensitive to the volatile chemicals. I open the garage doors a little while gluing to avoid a buildup of the vapors so the furnace pilot light doesn't ignite them. After a few minutes I shut the garage door mostly and run the space heaters (they are the oil filled type with no open heating elements). After a pretty short period of time I am able to bring the leather into the house...I put it upstairs and shut the door to finish curing. Seems most of the off-gassing of fumes takes place pretty fast, as my spouse has had no problems with the fumes. I wish I could say how long I leave these in the garage, but I can't remember if it is 30 minutes or two hours...I just go do something else for awhile and then bring them in the house.

I just purchased a can of Barge Contact Cement to replace my red-bordered Tanner's Bond Contact Cement which was made by Barge. I am expecting them to be the same. I do have a question...the side of my old Tanners Bond Contact Cement (v-4085 red labeled) can says, "Thin with Tanners Bond Thinner." If they changed the formulation of the new Tanners Bond Contact Cement, did they also change the thinner? If so, should I be thinning with Barge Cement Thinner?

Regarding cleaning the threads on your can lid...I haven't been and yes, I put the glue container (can) in a vice and use channel lock pliers to open the lid. Everytime I do this I wonder if the can is going to fail, but it hasn't so far. I have JUST learned a tip that if it works will be WONDERFUL! Regarding contact cement, put some Vasoline on the can threads to keep the lid from sticking. I can't wait to try this out. Meanwhile, I have received my 16 oz. plastic glue bottle from Springfield Leather.

Here's a bunch of links to medeval images http://www.larsdatter.com/shoemakers.htm

I've actually seen round knives on pottery and stonework from the first century...can't remember if it was AD or BC but when it's that old it doesn't matter much. Those round knives looked just like the ones we use now. I do have a leather workers knife that is different than what we are used to...see it at the following. Meanwhile, I'll look for more early images of round knives to post. http://www.sheffieldknives.co.uk/acatalog/7-121.html

Does your leather dye bleed (run) when it gets wet? If not, what did you dye it with? Sparks

I'm with Johanna, and don't mean to be harsh. But if the decoration affects all that beautiful sound that the luthier (guitar maker) has tried to accomplish by finding just the right pieces of wood, and it get significantly changed by the leather (i.e. "ruined") it would certainly need to come off. I think anything snug would alter the vibrations of the wood and consequently alter the sound. Mind you, it's a pretty decoration for those with tastes that way, but enhancing the appearance of the guitar should in no way be at the cost of the SOUND of the guitar. After all, people purchase sound recordings of guitar performances, not so much pictures. Sparks

Fascinating! Sparks

One of my favorite things to do is to look at the various galleries of our latest creations. It's easy to appreciate the creative talent and excellently skilled craftsmanship. However, it is NOT as easy to figure out what many of the projects are. Please include a name for your project! DCM060 (made up camera code name) doesn't cut it! Is your project a belt bag, checkbook cover or holster? Granted, many of those are pretty self explanatory, but I would say that a good 40% of what I see is beyond my scope of experience and with no hint in the caption or photo title I am lost. Plus, if I have to spend all that energy to (unsuccessfully) guess what you have created, I am less able to appreciate the craftsmanship. A word to the wise is sufficient.

Knut, I used a side of 10-12 saddle skirting. I have some left over, but not enough to make a second one. I followed the directions and made the straps out of lighter leather--6 to 8 weight. If I did it again I'd use the thick stuff for the straps. I learned to skive putting this together. I also wet formed the end pieces over wood so I would have a face to sew directly to, rather than sewing diagonally through pieces cut at a 45 degree angle. Sparks

Indeed! Garry Williams at Hanover Brass is one of my long distance buddies. I have bought numerous buttons from him, as well as buckles. I put NC Sunburst buttons on my shell jacket and wear a two-piece NC sword buckle to hold up 'accouterments.' Sparks