Mujician

Found it

I know how I need to measure up for a belt with a normal buckle, but I want to make a belt for a trophy buckle. I once saw an infographic with two belts on (a normal buckle and a trophy buckle) and their measurements. Does anyone know where I can find this picture again online, or tell me how to measure up for a trophy buckle? many thanks

Thanks guys, noob question:- those lengths you’ve said, what exactly are you measuring? Is it the entire length of the blank before it’s been folded over the buckle, is it the entire made up belt length, is it from the buckle to the centre hole? Many thanks for your help.

Hi, I’d like to make up some belts to take along to craft fairs. I’ve only ever made belts for people and made them to their exact size. How long should I be making belts to sell to the general public? Any tips?

Does anyone know how to create an aged look - especially around the edges of a piece of leather? Is it as simple as rubbing some neatsfoot into the areas I want to appear darker?

I have the opportunity to get one of these - can I use it to sew linings on belts and straps, or is it just for small work?

So in that case, I'm concerning myself with something that I don't need to even think about? I assumed that to make the item successfully, I would ned to have the the stitching holes in the exact same place as the pattern showed.

I have some patterns. They are digital, so I need to print them from my computer. Not a problem. I then mount them to card to trace onto the leather. Easy. However, I'm a little bit stuck when it comes to marking on the stitching holes. Am I correct in thinking its necessary to poke a hole through the template I have made, I'm really struggling with this aspect of things and its giving me a headache. While I'm here, I'm looking for a fool proof pattern or set of patterns for making drinking vessels. I'm very interested in making different kinds. Happy to pay for acrylic templates too. Many thanks for any help

Also - would casting, or epoxy resin be a suitable modern alternative to pitch?

Ah, okay - so fairly important then? How about a 50/50 mix of beeswax and pitch? I have seen this suggested by someone somewhere else. I am yet to try making a leather mug - but When I do, what is the best way to apply the pitch? can it be painted on, or does it need pouring in and the cup rotating or another method? Does it matter how close to the rim the pitch is?

Is brewers pitch a neccesity, or can a tankard like this be successfully sealed with just beeswax?

I found this thread through google.I'm interested in making drinking vessels from leather. I have plenty of veg tan to practice with. I just don't have any patterns or templates. can anyone help me out? Or at least let me know some dimensions to make one or two different sizes. What is the best method of putting in the stitching holes - awl or diamond chisel? Does the type of thread matter very much? Many thanks for any help you can offer me.

Thanks Jeff. I'm just doing some simple tooling at the moment. Just a couple of initials for a guy who asked me to make a wallet - if it works out - its his! I just need to figure out how to put the holes in to stitch it :-/

FYI - its this design - http://www.leathercraftpattern.com/leather-downloadable-patterns/leather-wallet-patterns/leather-short-wallet-pattern-PDF-SWP-08 Thanks leathermunchkin. The only bit I can see myself getting frustrated with is the hidden card slot.

I'm about to attempt a wallet, however I have a question. There are several layers of leather required to be on top of each other. All stitched in some way - do I stitch each individual piece (meaning stitching over the same place two or three times? Or do I cut all the pieces, lay them on top of each other and stitch them all in one go? It is a PDF pattern I bought from leather craft patterns.

I have a bag to lace together, but I'm not sure how. It has a front, a back, and a gusset. I have looked for lacing ideas but have seen none that will help me put this bag together. I have already had a go at making one, but I don't like how the edges turned out. Is it possible to do a whipstitch and have both flesh sides facing each other, or will that not be strong enough when each part starts to turn out as it all gets put together? Heres the one I already did.

I looked on their website, didn't see anything available. I have just ordered samples from Walter Reginald. I'm also going to see if faux leather is something I can work with.

Will using a burnisher on the back affect the tooled front? Should the back always be burnished?

I've recently made a few bookmarks from some spare leather and I'm wondering how I should finish the flesh side. I've dyed, and antiqued the front, and a little of the flesh side got antique on. I didn't want to leave it pain anyway - but what is the best practice for colouring the flesh side. Do I need to do anything to stop it being so spongey? Should I put some resolene on then antique over that? Any other suggestions? Many thanks

Any idea about getting these shipped to the UK?

I was wondering if anyone could tell me where I could find some exotic leathers in the UK. All I can seem to find it pre-dyed stingray skin. Although it looks quite cool, I'm not sure what I could use it for. I'd like to get something interesting looking to make guitar straps with. I've seen pictures (and I'm aware of how controversial it is) of seal skin guitar straps. I don't think this is legal to export to the UK however. Any suggestions? All I can seem to find is cow hide.

I think the wide bit at the front and thin at the back looks really odd. I have made two adjustable straps but have never been sure of the measurements. I just winged it each time. Is there a sure fire way of measuring up to make a guitar strap in this manner?

I've just ordered some glow in the dark acrylic - not a clue what I'll use it on, but it'll be awesome!

Thanks Buko - so are you saying that the neats foot should be after dying, but before the finish (i have fiebings resolene) or can it go on after the finish layer?

In my learning about leather, I have come across people talking about neatsfoot oil as a way of softening leather. Although I was a bit confused when I saw a thread in which someone wrote he uses neatsfoot which stops the leather from getting too soft. Anyway - when tooling and dying veg tan leather, it seems to go quite tough and rigid. My question is: can I use neatsfoot oil when working with dyed veg tan leather, or is it purely to use on plain veg tan leather? At what stage in the process of casing, tooling, dying, and finishing the leather item can I apply neatsfoot? Am I right in thinking that mink oil is a waterproofing finish to apply when everything else is done? I have tried to search for answers here but didn't come up with anything that I was looking for. Many thanks