handsw

I have just made this sheath for my dad's knife but I have done some mistake in the project, find it/them. What do you think of the edges?

Update: after an emails exchange with Kevin I have understood that that particular item and the shafts are made by an indian manufacturer that sells only to the springfield company. However it is possible to buy the single shafts for about 3$ each

Yes yes, just the shafts. I can try to call Springfield but I think they sell only the kit.

Hello, I need some replacements for my edge beveler. In particular I have seen this on springfield store that shows the package of the edgers and there is the write 'made in india' on it. Do you know if there is a store where I can buy these edgers?

I find working with leather and in general DIY very gratifying but according to your idea I would have a budget of 80 + 55$ (1 Barry king 96oz + 1 Barry King 16oz). Okay, I want to make two mauls on my own, but I have chosen to make them because it is gratyfing and because in this way I can save some money. Furthermore I don't like to pay one thing more than its cost. Maybe I am stingy but if spending some time to search the best offer on internet can help me to save money, I prefer to do that. After all, this is an hobby and I don't die if I won't have the mauls.

That's what I want to avoid. Unless I plan to make other mauls with the intention of selling them, I would like to buy only the pieces I need. I have asked to a UK store and they answered me that for a piece of 80x70mm and another of 60*50mm the shipping costs were 43£ . I have checked ebay but the best deal I have found will cost me 33 euro all included, but it is still too much.

Even Polyethylene 1000 is UHMW and I can find it on ebay but I don't know if it is too soft compared to poly or acetal

So do you think that the choice of poly, made by all mauls manufacturers, isn't the best one? Well, if I find a store with both poly and acetal I will buy two heads and I will use both of them to make a comparison.

Mmm, I will take a look at that store. Can you tell me why you suggest the acetal? according to an hardness scale I have found on internet, polyurethane has a hardness between rubbers (too soft) and plastics. Nylon and acetal have an hardness very high so maybe they can damage the tools.

They do not ship outside USA, I'm searching a store in Europe with reasonable shipping costs

I am trying to make my own maul and reading some thread I have seen that poly wins against rawhide. Do you know some store who sells poly rod/bar with diameter 80mm and length 70-80mm and that ship across EU? Just to be sure, poly means polyurethane, right?

Hi, I can suggest this store http://www.curtidosmarquez.es/ in Caceres. I lived there for months and I have bought a lot of pieces of leather and even a whole cow hide, very good quality. The prices were honest, 131euro for a 3mm hide.

This question is mostly for European leather workers because I think that these brands are uncommon in the rest of the world. B&E and Effax are brands that sell grease, soap, beeswax, oil.... products for a very very reasonable price. I have bought 200ml of Gold Quality Grease from R.O.C and the price was about 7 euro + shipping. For that price I can buy 1kg of B&E or Effax grease. The price difference is enormous and I wonder which are the differences between these german brands and the more expensive ones (like R.O.C). I have checked the ingredients of the greases and they are quite the same. I own also the balm of B&E and I am satisfied of its results, so I'm asking if someone can confirm the reliability of these cheaper brands and if you prefer B&E or Effax

Try searching "conceria Napoli" on google maps, you will receive some results. However most of the tanneries don't have a website to see the catalog of the types of leather they have.

I already know all the stores you have mentioned. My question was very specific because lederhouse and all other stores have high shipping costs, at least 16 euro. So even if the dyes cost under 6 euro I will spend more than 8 euro /bottle; that because I don't need a large amount of bottles, just 4-5.

Does someone know where I can buy Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes in Italy for less than 8 euro/bottle (118ml/4oz)? Or even in Europe but 8 euro/bottle must include the shipping costs. Thanks

So it's a problem of expertize. I have thought to retreat and adjust the awl if it does not come out in the right position but I thought that I had already made a channel and correcting the position 2 or 3 times could result in the creation of a bigger hole when I use the thread. When I pass the thread through the hole, the previous holes could merge (because there is a distance of mm between them) into a single bigger hole.

Hello, for the second time I tried to do a leather box using the miter joints method and for the second time the result has been the first photo, a very bad work. I have read books on how doing miter joints but I think I lack of some practical tip. The leather I have used was 3mm thick and I have obtained an angle of 45° using a belever. Now I have used the stitching groover and the overstitch wheel. Until now I think that all what I have done is correct. When I tried to use the awl to make the holes, the first time I put the tip on the exact mark (see circle in the second photo) made by the overstitch wheel and with an inclination of 30-45° I have pushed the awl. Because in this way the result was horrible, the second time I have put the tip 0,5-1mm before the sewing channel (see circle in the first photo) and the result was acceptable. Now the questions are: Is there a rule about the distance of the awl from the sewing channel? If you see the second photo the sewing is not completely straight, some hole are closer to the edge than others, is a lack of skill doing such errors or I don't know a particular method?

thanks but if you have seen both the methods I think I will choose the second one (after) because otherwise I can't continue the project until the stamp arrives and because there will not be a a color difference (but I am not sure of that) between the part stamped and the background.

I have ordered the stamp but I have a question; I am working on a project that I must dye but should I apply the hot stamp before dyeing or after?

Thank you. I have found a Chinese seller who can make a brass custom hot stamp for only 28 euro and I think it's a bargain.

I have read the thread because I have the same problem of gaseousclay. If I have understood well, the better stamp should be the hot pressed one because it can be used on every kind of leather. I think that in this way the stamp should lasts longer than the others, used with a mallet or a press (I haven't got this machine anyway), am I right? So now the problem is which kind of metal we should use (plastic is obviously not an option). Because brass, steel and copper are the options available I think that the problem is how they react to the deformations caused by the heat.

Hello, I am new in the leather world but I fond it fascinating. I like to create things for my personal use, in fact my first leatherwork has been a collar for my dog. I hope to find in this forum a reference point for my future leatherworks.