handsw

Oh nice, I didn't know that. I actually live in the UK, are there other brands? Can edge paint be used on burnished edges? Is it a good solution for long lasting edges?

Hi, you can see in the attaches images the zipper tag of my backpack. I was wondering what it is the material that cover the edges, it seems some plastic or rubber material. The zipper tag is made of faux leather or chromed leather probably, therefore the edges are not treatable like if they were made of veg tan leather but the coating is nice and seems durable so I would like to try using the same material on some of my creations.

Try these websites http://www.rhnuttall.co.uk/blog/unusual-leathers/ http://www.sibel.fr/il-nostro-catalogo.html I know that an online store is easier to use but for these particular skins I think you will have to contact some store directly.

The book Finesse figure carving by Al Stohlman is great for all animal textures and explains all the stamps required to do them. At page 132 you can find the section for reptiles and amphibians.

You can try aminal glue carefully brushed to create a thin coat. It shouldn't leave white stains like pva glues. Otherwise you can try another kind of fabric, maybe one with one side plastified so the glue doens't soak it.

In fact the armor is the same (so you have done a good job ), mine was only an opinion about the color in general.

Ther armor is great but the first thing that comes to my mind when I saw it was an elven armor. I don't know which is your reference model (maybe a skyrim armor?) but the green color is classically not associated with an orc armor.

Hello, which are the differences between dyes,alcohol based, for leather and suede? Can I use a suede dye on normal leather? Is the result the same?

Can you give me more details about the lace you used? In particular, which are the width and the thickness of it?

The 64oz. maul has been sold.

New, bigger maul!!! Head in polyurethane 90S, weights in cast iron, leather handle, steel core, head easily replaceable, solid brass pommel. Total weight: about 1820gr ~ 64.2 oz.. Total length: about 26cm Price: 40 euro~45$ Shipping costs: US: 34 euro~38$ (up to 3kg). Europe: between 15 and 20 euro, it depends on country.

Thanks, I will take a look at those books. Yes but it uses acrylic dyes, not pro oil and the base colors are different (for example purple)

I haven't found useful the books indicated by Troy Burch, maybe others are more complete as you say. Good point, however I think the only thing I can do know is to try it myself.

I have checked the Stohlman books but they are not useful. I have also made a deep research on internet and there is no system I can use to mix real colors and obtain a certain color. However I have one last method : the empiric one. I am quite sure that mixing blue and yellow, the result will be green, but mixing red, yellow and blue, will I obtain some kind of brown? If yes, it is only a matter of proportions and I will do many experiments to find the exact formula for different shades of browns and other colors. I knew that fiebing oil dyes were spirit based, despite the name, so I think that using normal alcohol I can brighten up every color.

Usually I use only black and dark brown colors to dye my works but I have read that mixing Fiebing's pro oil dyes is possible so I wonder if I can apply a scientific method to obtain certain colors. Pro oil dyes come in a limited choice but can I use the RGB codes to create new colors? Example: according to RGB percent codes, to obtain the turquoise color I should use 6% red, 87% green, 69% blue (I suppose that the percentage means that I have to dilute the base color till I reach that value).. Someone could say "try and see on your own" but I don't have the basic colors and I will buy them only if I have the certainty that this method works. So has anyone tried it?

Another maul entirely handmade. Head in polyurethane 90S, weights in aluminum, leather handle, steel core, head easily replaceable Total weight: about 510gr ~ 18 oz.. Total length: about 27cm Price: 40 euro~45$

New, cheaper, shipping costs (with tracking number): US: 21 euro~23$ Europe: 15 euro~17$ Without tracking number: US: 17 euro~20$ Europe: 12 euro~13$ Another maul (500gr~18oz.) is on the way....

Maul entirely handmade. Head in nylon (Delrin), weights in aluminum, leather handle, steel core. Total weight: about 684gr ~ 24 oz.. Total length: about 26cm Price: 40 euro~45$ Shipping: US: about 30 euro~35 Europe: between 14 and 22 euro~16-25$

I like it too. Could you tell us which kinds of leather you have used ? (maybe putting some numbers on the images for reference)

My aim is not just to harden the leather but to discover a new technique and crate my own version. Hardening leather with water works really good actually but the use of wax may add some important features to the final item such as a higher weight and waterproof ability. I think that the technique is still used by some people who create leather armors...

I want to try to made some item with this technique but despite the common use of water to harden the leather, I want to use only the wax. I have searched on internet and there are many ways in which I can use the wax but there isn't a definitive technique because no one knows its origin for certain. What technique do you use? I am interested even in waxing a single side of the leather.

That's another good idea, closer to my way of conceiving a sheath

Thanks for the pics, however this was my first sheath of this kind so let's back to work and I will post my new sheaths soon, so we can check if there is some improvement.

I really don't know what to do with the edges because every time I sand them with the dremel but when it's the turn to bevel, they appear to be wavy. That's because the sanding process remove the leather beneath the flesh side but leave unaltered the smooth and finished layer of the flesh side that is about 1/10 mm thick. For the back, why the stamping is unnecessary? Do you usually leave it blank?

For the stud I have searched on internet some model but I have seen that often it is placed with an angle of 45° respect to the guard. However the knife will not be used on the ground, it is only for exposition I have added a piece of leather to cover the back of the fastener so the blade will not take any scratch. But won't be, in this way, the grain side outside? Fantastic, thank you. You are right but that choice was due to the main problem of the sheath: the thickness. The space that allow the blade to slide inside the sheet is only 3mm so made a belt loop long enough to arrive at the level of the guard was impossible. I have calculated the thickness of the sheath without considering the guard.