xyshannen

Looks great! I'm wondering what leather did you use one the handle that has a finished side on both sides? As far as "working" on the handle, have you thought about rolling the edges over and running a saddle stitch along booth sides? It not only would give a more finished look but the stitching would make it stronger and help prevent stretching.

Hand washing isn't out of the question. I'm just more worried about repetitive wetting and drying causing the leather to get stiff over time. The idea behind this protective clothing is something to wear over your clothes that's lighter and a lot cooler than a full leather jackets and or chaps. In Florida it can be over 120 on the road surface. So with that, I know washing is still going to be necessary from time to time. Would Veg Tan that's been really well oiled stand up? Honestly, I was having a bit of a blond moment when I posted this and hand washing wasn't even something I had considered. LOL. Kenny thanks for the offer, but I'm wanting to do a bag out of bison,, so if it doesn't work for this idea the leather won't go to waist. And that's actually a good price for bison that thick!

Kenny, do you mind linking me to the exact leather you use? I looked on their site and their product listings are pretty vast. It could take me a good bit reading description after description to find what you use. I did just run through the wash a 6oz 12 by 12inch peice of oil tanned I had some scrap of, just to see. The results where not terrible but not great either. It went in having a nice firm temper to it and came out somewhat distorted with about a 7" square part that became all crumpled and very soft to the touch. I'm letting it dry now. I wanted to see what the harshest wash cycle would do so I washed it on the power wash cycle. I'm thinking a delicate cycle and a smaller piece may provide better results. But the question still remains if it will stand up to repeated cycles and drying

I'm planning on making some protective riding gear for motorcycle riding. What I'm thinking is to take some strong clothing like from Duluth and stitch some heavy leather over the knees and elbows and along the back and butt. I'm wanting to be able to wash these garments in the machine, but only hang dry them. What leather would be best for this application? I'm thinking oil tanned or possibly chrome tanned?

Just wanted to show off a couple of recent projects I've done. The first is a seat for my 2008 Lance Vintage Scooter. I used 9-12 oz veg tan saddle skirting. Solid copper rivets, and my first attempt at hand lacing. For the lacing, I wanted it to stand out but not be huge lace so I first laced with single filament nylon thread for strength then went back over it with 1mm round leather lace. I also am testing using actual copper wire as a lace. It's supposed to be corrosion proof but I wanted to test this one something for me before ever using it on something I would sell. 2 months later and so far so good. I didn't want to damage the original seat so I made this as more of a seat cover that I wet molded to the original seat. I made the but pan hum more pronounced and supported it with foam padding thats just glued in place. Once installed the padding should ever move. I attached the seat and the back rest with pig skin straps. Also another first for me was this helmet. I took an old beanie helmet and wet molded and wrapped it in 3oz veg tan leather. Then used 12oz bridal leather for the bottom trim. I used solid copper rivets and hand stitching to put it all together. The color of both the helmet and the seat was attained by applying neatsfoot oil. The right side of the helmet isn't a different color, my light was almost gone when I took this pic and even with the flash the right side is in shadow.

I do see your point, I hadn't really thought about it like that. Solid copper rivets are all I work with and from what I've found is if you don't protect the head wile pounding on them they do oxidize pretty quickly. IE, if you just place it on a piece of raw granite with nothing covering it they seem to turn green in a few weeks. But if I place a piece of tough pig skin between the rivet head and the granite or anvil they don't seem to turn green. They will still darken much like a penny does but don't actually turn green. Least that's been my experience.

Great Job Joe! You did really well with those rivets. Pounding out solid rivets is as much of an art form as anything else. The only thing I would have done differently would have been to put the head of the rivets facing the outside of the bag. I see how that would be difficult, but IMO would give a more finished look. But still...bravo man, bravo.

I usually work with heavy leather in the 8-9 ounce weight so I personally like to use my pricking irons to punch all the holes before stitching. I've tried using the awl to punch as I go and just don't care for it. I use different size irons and threads depending on what i'm working on, the thickness of the leather and the look I'm going after. A lot of times I like to use thicker thread as it helps to show that what you are looking at is all stitched by hand. It really gives the piece the done by hand look. I use a compass to mark my stitching line because I hate stitches that wonder all over the place and found it's next to impossible to keep things neat without laying down a guideline before punching holes. One problem I had with pre punching the holes is the iron would stretch the leather when you tried to remove it. So to keep from stretching the leather I fashioned a 1 by 6 board with a 1/4 inch slit down the center. I then lay this on the stitching line and punch the iron down through the slit and through the leather piece. The board then holds the leather down wile I pull the iron from it. First few attempts I noticed the board leaving edge marks on the leather from the edge of the wood. Gluing 2 strips of leather along the underside of the board eliminated the edge marks.