Lamplog

I have a saddle that I have been asked to restore, it is a Whitman Park saddle style no 70 with a No. 6 tree. The customer has the original catalog which shows the saddle and identifies it as using selected pigskin with nickel trimmings. We are going to rebuild the saddle from tree up, provided that the tree is sound, and so far it seems to be. The customer has asked me to restore it to as close to its original stature as possible. I am not sure where to get pigskin of this type or if anyone even makes it. The flaps are doubled and stitched, the leather is approximately 6-8oz so 12-16 total. Would anyone know of any sources? I would guess vegetable tanned or possibly bark tanned? Thank You, Tom

I know this is a really old post but in doing research on another saddle, I believe I have identified this saddle fyi and future reference. This to my knowledge is a Whitman Full Jockey and Park with detachable flaps and used a center fire rigging. This had there no 9 tree. They were made with pigskin and nickel hardware. The saddle sold for $75.00 at that time. This information came from the Mehlbach Saddle Co. Catalog circa 1919. factory located in Newark, NJ. Thank You, Tom

Hi Troy and Bob, Thank You, I was pretty sure there would not be but it is nice to have assurance that it would, especially from the likes of you two gentlemen! Have a good day! Tom

I have a saddle I am working on for a gal that is really concerned about weight. She is not going to rope with this saddle, so I would not have that stress involved. Here is my question. Is there any advantage to using a flat plate in place of a normal inskirt rigging ring. Would any of you feel that there is a problem using a flat plate in a inskirt rig? I have seen a few guys use flat plates, so I am wondering if any of ya all here have used em? I think the skirt would have to be lowered like a flat plate and to me that would give a little more surface for the skirts to bear on. It is a little different look. Thanks, Tom

I am pretty sure Rod & Denise Nikkel. www.rodnikkel.com would be more than happy to help you with any questions you might have about trees for gaited horses or any other for that fact. I have had some inquiry's about gaited saddles as we have a few around these parts. I am not sure what saddle makers you have talked too, but there are a bunch here that are more than qualified, and some of em could make a saddle ta fit a camel if ya wanted. Thanks Tom

Great looking saddle Darcy, you certainly give me something to aspire too! I have looked at Steve's Swade and think its a pretty nice marriage. I would think a Mason Swade would give the credit where its due. The tree will certainly get some following. Tom

Hi Folks, Does anyone here know of a Custom Saddle Maker in northwest Nebraska by the name of Frank Christensen. I have a saddle that a customer brought to the shop yesterday and she would like to sell it. Its a custom made partial flower carved with a waffle stamp. The swell is laced very nicely and the craftsmanship is very good. The saddle is in very good shape. I will have some pictures later in the week as I get it cleaned up. Any information on him would be greatly appreciated. She would like to sell it and have me make her a new one on a wade tree. Thanks, Tom

High Michael, I have worked with both the twisted and braided. I have never had a twisted come apart yet but I feel better about the braided ones knowing that it is not going to be a problem for one of my customers down the road. I do charge more for a braided core because of the time factor. I noticed when I was buying my hides in, that the rawhide tends to be a lot stiffer than my homemade rawhide (not limed). The cores from that store bought rawhide is pretty stiff. I tend to side with Allen on this in that how stiff does it have to be. The function of the bosal is not a matter of putting the horse's head between his knees! Relief off pressure comes from the release of the rein and the weight of the heel knot. I have found that at least on my own horses that I tend to like the cores being a little softer. I did not make them that way at the start because I did not make my own rawhide. One thing I have noticed is that if you are braiding right over the core without any tape or filler that can absorb moisture such as in your build up of the nose button it puts moisture back into the rawhide and seems to keep it wet all the time, especially in my part of the country where we usually have more water than we know what to do with. I am not sure where you are but location does have something to do with it. If you live in a dry part of the country you probably are not going to have a problem with this. I know that when some folks come in here from out west they like using a reata because of the moisture in the air and they pretty much do not have to temper their reata. I do not braid my cores with anything but a wet string, water only, if you use saddle or plain soap I find it really makes for a soft core. I use it when braiding over the core and on my nose button but not the core. I make all my cores 4 plait and adjust the size of the string for the core. Let em cure good in the sun or here I put em in the same room as my wood cookstove and they come around pretty quick. Thanks Allen and Jake for the insight. Allen I would like to see your contraption for braiding a reata. I hope to make a few next winter, if time permits. Tom

This dvd is spoken for. Thank You, Tom

I try to be somewhat of a traditionalist when I can. So I do not want to take anything away from some of those styles. I made this one up, It is easy to build, you do not need a welder, and it was fairly cheap. Here are the materials I used. 1 - hydraulic salon chair - local craigslist 10.00-50.00. - alot of them have a seal gone .15 cents at the hardware store and some oil. 2 - 1 1/2" boiler pipe flange 5.00 ya might need to make an adapter to bolt to the salon chair ram to. It comes with a universal metal base that connects to the chair. The rams are 1.000" in dia. I just ran 4 bolts with washers and bolted to the pipe flange, would like to maybe weld this together at some point. This could be all one piece and welded solid about 17 to 18" total. 1- 1 1/2" x 12" pipe extension 7.50 1- 1 1/2" x 3" pipe extension 3.50 1- 1 1/2" coupler 3.50 2- 1/2 or 5/8 eyebolts and nuts 5.00 misc- bolts, nuts, screws 2- 2 x 8 x 24 pieces of lumber I used hardwood I had here. 1 - 2 x 6 x 12-16 piece of lumber. should be able to make this for under a $100.00 Optional Panavise 400 heavy duty base 30.00 Panavise 437 1" heavy duty fixture head 20.00 might want a couple of these to mount on different saddle mounts. What I have now works great for a drawdown. Like I said its real easy to break straps on this thing. It will provide enough compression that it might be possible to break a tree. So careful! One very small issue is that when you go to release it it will pump up about a inch before it comes down, applying additional torque, that is when I have broken a strap. I started out with 1" 15oz straps. Went to 1 3/4" and would like to make a pair that are doubled up, for what reason I am not sure, might have to strap down a elephant or jack up my truck with it some day! I really like it because I can stretch my stirrups on it and shape them also. Just wet em, twist and give her a pump or two and leave em for a day or two, can even do it while you are working on another part of the saddle. I just have a strap that I run through the stirrups and it puts the right shape on them, even gives them just a bit of angle if ya mount the strap on the inside of the stirrup bottom. I would like to make a saddle base with the stirrup slots cut out the same as on the tree and so I do not have to use a saddle or tree I am working on. You could probably use this with the panavise but would need to make some type of strap that runs through the saddle base and then to the eyebolts. I am thinking that I will buy another fixture head and mount a pair of hinges and a turnbuckle that will attach to the top of the stirrup slots from the inside. I think I saw a picture of one somewhere but it is not mine. Also I would replace the black plastic nut on the panavise with maybe a ratchet welded on there not that you would want to put a lot of torque on it but just to make it easier to tighten and loosen. Whats nice though is that you can have a few fixture heads on one panavise saddle base and swap them out, so you only need one hydro stand. If ya all have some better ideas, I would like to hear or seem em that would be great. Like I said this was quick and easy and I did not put a lot of thought into it, but I would like to maybe improve on it sum, so all ideas are welcome. Also it has a rubber piece around the base so it slides around my shop pretty easy. Hope some of this helps! So total for the whole deal you should not have to spend more than 150.00.

Hi Dennis, We met over to Frannie's last summer when Bryan Neubert was there. I have one of Rod & Denise's trees here that I have started, they make a great tree. It looks like it might not be in your budget but if I can help in any way, give me a shout. I think there is an outfit somewhere out in the midwest that makes or imports a austrailian type police saddle that fits drafts. I have a gal over here in Ashland that is thinking about selling a black wade draft saddle that she has. I think the price is up there but she wants lighter wade and its only a few years old. Maybe we will run into you this spring when we can see over the snow banks. Tom Lamprey

Hi Hank, Good luck getting started in the saddle business. Here is a picture of one I built. It is a hydraulic salon chair base $15.00 from local craigslist. I just concocted some pipe 1-1/2" to attach to the base or get it welded. and made the wood saddle rack from some hardwood I had. I think it ran me about 50.00 total. I just used 2 - 1 1/2 inch straps on each side. Have to be careful cause you can pump it up enough to break the straps. I like it cause I can work on something from a chair and it will swivel and stop, has a brake in it, and it spins 360. I am working on another that will have a panavise in it, so I can sew my cantles a little easier. I could take some more pics if you are interested. Tom

I will consider any offers on this or would consider trade for Dale Harwood Saddle Making DVD. Thank You, Tom

I have the 3 dvd set "The Art of Saddle Making" for sale. I purchased this last fall and have watched it a few times. It is in great shape. $300.00 and I will include the shipping for that. Thank You, Tom

Hi all, I want to thank you for the kind complements, I suspect that is always something that makes you feel good. Especially when you hear it round about from customers. But when it comes from your constituents, well that always adds some inspiration. I am a firm believer that you are your own best critic, and if not the good lord has a way of showing you, even when you are not looking. I have been working with leather for about 30 yrs. I started out of necessity because my brother and I logged with draft horses and most of the old timers remembered the good ol' days but could not offer much in the way of working or repairing leather. I remember braking a tug on a yankee d-ring harness and wondering how the heck do ya sew through all that leather, fortunately we had spare parts everywhere and the broke tug sat there for quite some time. So I started sewing leather out of necessity. I returned to Oklahoma after some time in college and did not live to far from Billy Cooks shop. At that time it was just him, I use to walk in and visit and could not get enough of the smell of leather. I guess thats what hooked me in the beginning. I spent another 10 years out there and then returned to NH as my family was here. Trouble was there just was not any good gear here to be had. I started braiding some gear, mainly for myself and friends and then I had some folks tell they wanted to buy some headstalls and such. That was the start there. I have had the good fortune to own a couple of good custom saddles, back when I had money. In working in the repair of saddles, I have had some good ones in here to work on and I am always seeing how other saddlers are doing things. Ray Hunt came here back about 15 yrs ago and I had the opportunity to ride with him, a few times and I was hooked on them "Wades". Anyway what all this leads up to is, I did not just think hey I am going to build saddles for a living, it has come about over time. I wish I had the opportunity to work in a custom saddle shop before I ventured into this and earn my keep and get some knowledge before attempting this. But I knew the only way I could get a start was to dive in. Make a ton of mistakes, you bet. I tore two fork covers off this one before I made one stick right, three cantle bindings and I am still not happy with the one thats on there. Maybe someday I'll fess up and show it to ya all, pretty bad. Fortunately I have worked with stamping and carving a little to the point that I felt comfortable working and casing the leather. I have a long way to go in that department and struggle with that side of this saddle makin. I plan on making a bunch more mistakes before I might even come up with an ounce of the talent that a lot of ya all have! Well that is just one part of the show as ya all know. Now comes fittin the saddle to a rider and horse! I have had the good fortune of making a living for a while ridin, and so I know what a saddle should feel like and I think I can get the horse situated fairly well. There sure is a lot to this business. Without having this site to rely on the post's of ya all, I might never had been able to get the first one finished. So you may get tired of me say thank you. What I saw as problems: - Getting my patterns cut out for the first time. -Front jockey to narrow and did not drop down to meet the line of the back jockey. Not sure how but when I cut the pattern out it seemed like I had it pretty good. Measure twice cut once. Not sure where I heard that. -Swell cover not even all the way around coming over the gullet. I had a hard time with the cover stretching more than I wanted when I went to glue it down. Got it better the 3rd time and feel a lot better about next time around, had a hard time with the cut around the hand hole. Cantle binding - Ok Uncle! Just had a hard time getting it to smooth out without wrinkling. Getting my stitches to come out even. Probably going to make some more mistakes here. Thanks for pointing out the cantle binding edge. My ground seat feels pretty good but may just be a little flat and I feel that I might not have taken enough dish out in the cantle, as that feels just a little flat for my liking. But then I do not have the smallest seat back there. The skirts are screwed on the corners of the gullet but maybe I did not get them high enough to bring them up/down tight. Well the list is plenty. When I look at the overall picture of the saddle, I am fairly happy for my first. When I break it down, thats where I know I have a tremendous amount of things to improve on. Dear Steve, I really appreciate you taking the time to point these things out, it really means a lot to me to have that sort of feedback. Some of the things you mentioned I was not totally aware of. I have admired your work for some time and know that you are certainly one of the saddles makers that I know I aspire too. JW and Bob, I have read many a post of ya all's and appreciate the time and effort that ya all have in contributing to this site. Billy, I appreciate ya all taking the time and your complements. Rod & Denise, Now I have to get to work, I have another saddle to build. I hate to have to cover this tree with leather, ya all's trees are truly a work of art and to nice to cover as they are as pretty as the leather that goes over them. Folks do not get to see that part. I cannot thank ya all enough!!!! Tom

I finally got enough gumption to post my first saddle. I cannot thank folks enough for their help both personally and with the help on this site. I went full time this spring and so far I barely have my head above water. I have been busy in the repair business, braiding and some small tack items. This has been a dream of mine for some time to build saddles. This one is on a Sonny Felkins Tree, with an all leather ground seat. I am in the process of starting a second, on one of Denise & Rod Nikkels trees. There is quite a lot on this one that I hope to improve on. Enough said. I would ask for any help and critique that ya all can give me, and it would be greatly appreciated. Living in this part of the country makes it a little difficult to get any help, so I have relied heavily on this site, books, videos and the help of an elder gentlemen (retired saddle repair business) and friend who never built new saddles but greatly supported me and offered as much advise as possible. He comes to my shop almost every day and has been my best advertisement. I have spoke with some of ya all over the phone and cannot thank you enough for taking the time to talk with me. Thank You, Tom

Thanks Denise for showing a picture of the Beam. Here is a link to a number of different knives. I use a draw knife also. You have to sharpen pretty often. I do the same on the gettin the hair off. I dont lime the hides so it takes a pretty good effort. I took a a 8x8x8 beam and rounded the top side and just put it on a couple of saw horses. It works ok if youre on a budget. I like Rod's fleshing beam, might have to make one. Here is the link. http://www.fntpost.com/Categories/Fur+Handling/Fleshing/Fleshing+Knives/. Tom

Hi Bob, I have a friend and mentor that is 80+ yrs and has retired from the saddle and tack repair business. He has asked me if I want his 29-4 and I thought I would take it (free). He has been very generous with a lot of his tools and books, so forth. I have been skeptical but thought having a cylinder arm set up to do some of my work would be nice because I certainly run into situations where I have to hand sew some things and I think this would make a difference. He tells me it does not pick up the thread on the stitch. I feel that it may be a timing issue. I need to pick it up and get it to my shop and go through it. It seems like you have a lot of parts for these and I am hoping I can contact you when I get the machine and see where it is at. Will it indeed sew with 138 thread? I will post pictures when I have it. Thank You, Tom Lamprey Granite Buckaroo

Steve, I been running a Artisan 797ab, paid 300 for it used and threw a servo on it. It seems to do a pretty good job. I can go thru 3-4 layers of 5 oz ok. I have sewn 5 layers on it, so far I am happy. It will go through 8-9oz and 2 layer of chap no problem. The servo really makes a difference. The folks at Artisan are great to deal with. I would like to move up to the 3000 or 4000 to do saddles. I will keep the 797 though. Regards, Tom

Hi Steve, Great looking pair of chinks, I really like how you turned the fringe around to get the different contrast. Sometimes the most simple ideas have have the greatest effect. Never seen it done before. I have been toying with having a friend make a scalloped pinking punch like the one you used but it is not exactly priorty on his list as he shoes for a livin and has a hard time findin the time. Can those be purchased somewhere or did you make or have it made. I got a pair of chaps years ago and I always liked the effect of a scalloped edge. It just seems to set things up a little extra ordinary. Tom

First post on here, so bare with me, I just finished a pair of step in Armitas, be happy to send you what I have. I just took a chink pattern and kind of worked it from there. I will try to get a picture here but if it does not work. I have them on my website www.granitebuckaroo.com. I could send you a paper pattern if that would work. I am just startin out on chaps, chinks, Arimitas. I have been braiding a lot of stuff but first stab at sewing things. I like to build some saddles in the near future. I tend to like the step-ins better, nothin there to rub you or the saddle. Tom Lamprey