megabit

Nice looking work.

I'll try to remember to take pictures I still haven't finished up this one yet.

I start out with 4 strands of rawhide about 50" - 60" long and 1/4" wide. Middle the strands and move a inch or two to one side to start the 4 plait loop. You could also do this part with a split braid. sanjuanswivel_start loop by ss1442, on Flickr I have the 4 plait wrapped around a 3/4" dowel and have started the 8 plait body of the honda here. Bruce Grant's book "Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding" has a good illustration of going from 4 to 8 somerwhere around page 200 (I'll get the page and plate numbers later). sanjuanswivel_8 strand started by ss1442, on Flickr Here I have the body of the honda plaited out to 6" or 7". You can go shorter or longer depending on how big you like your hondas. I have also pounded it some and ran it threw a rein rounder before I took this picture. I like running it threw the rounder because it streches it some and I want to get as much of the strech out of it before it gets used. sanjuanswivel_ready 2 start neck by ss1442, on Flickr Now I pull the strings threw the 4 plait loop. sanjuanswivel_starting neck 1 by ss1442, on Flickr That is Grant's "Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding" in the picture page 213 plate 82. It has a pretty good illustration of how to do the neck. sanjuanswivel_starting neck 2 by ss1442, on Flickr I have the neck part way done in this picture. It is a lot like doing a multi string nose button on a bosal. sanjuanswivel_neck started by ss1442, on Flickr I finish the neck by cutting 4 of the strings off and using the other 4 to tie the Spanish Ring knot. Then I use a hammer handle and some wood blocks to strech things out. I will leave it in the strecher to dry for a day or two longer if it is real humid out. Once I feel it is thoroughly dried out I will pull it out of the strecher but leave the dowel in place and boil it for about 90 seconds. That will make the rawhide harder so it is less likely to close up on your rope in use. Then it goes back in the strecher to dry back out again. Once it is dry then I'll frequently coat it with polyurethane or spar varnish. Then it is time to put on the burner. I'll also wrap the area that will be under the burner with some wire to give it weight and to keep it from closing up. sanjuanswivel_streching by ss1442, on Flickr

Charlie I took some pictures the other night as a built another honda. I'll try to put a tutorial together RSN (real soon now).

:thumbsup: Nice looking work.

These look great like always. I doubt you will have anything to pack for the trip home.

I'll try to remember to take pictures of all of the steps when I do the next one to do a tutorial. I use 4 strings about 1/4" and 50" - 60" long. You could get by with shorting strings but I'd rather have some waste than come up short. I pull the 8 strands threw the loop and then do O1U1 like doing a multi strand noise button around a dowel.

Hmm Temecula, braiding 2 years, reining horses, Bret C perhaps? If so those hobbles you posted on Facebook sure looked nice.

I forgot to take the picture yesterday, but here is an older picture of a slightly different style honda but it should give you the idea. Some Christmas presents by ss1442, on Flickr You don't so much tie it on as slide it on with a knot at the end of the rope to keep it from sliding back off.

You mean beyond me being lazy? Maybe I'll try to do one.

The rope goes down threw the ring knot and the neck. You put a terminal knot on the rope so it doesn't pull threw. I'll try to get a picture of the one on my rope later.

Finished this one up today. I am really liking this San Jaun hybrid style. I have the first one on my gold polly. This is the 3rd one I've made like this. Honda by ss1442, on Flickr

So did you find a used one or bite the $450 bullet?

I would indeed be interested.

Nice looking hondas. Outstanding job on the burners. If you want to really add some heft wrap it with wire under the burner.

I think either Woolery's book or Grant's has a picture of Tom's splitter. The picture isn't very good though and I couldn't figure out how it worked looking at it. I have one of the Clint Sims (whitebuf) ones but would like to get away from the utility razor blades. I think it would work better with a blade that is just beveled on one side (like a plane blade). I wish I knew a machinist I'd have an adapter for a plane blade rigged for my Sims splitter. Speaking of the Dorrance DVD, is it worth spending the considerable funds on? I have a new reata at home but it still looks like a dried cowhide.

His ebay id is hobbyhogwhips you might try message there.

I've seen the pictures of his cutter but noticed in his WH ad that he has a splitter now based on a Dorrance design. Has anyone seen it? Do you have a picture you could post? Mike

Boy I wrecked lots of hide figuring out those two things. Still get in a hurry every now and then, generally takes lots longer as you have to start over. :rofl:

Sounds to me like you are soaking it to long before you stick it in the bag. Once it gets over soggy getting it right a major pain. Sometimes you can let it all dry out and start over but generally those soggy spots will be soggy again when you wet it again.

That sure looks nice.

Well I got a chance to try out the hobbles today, they seem like they will work out just fine. Hobbles in use by ss1442, on Flickr Hobbles in use by ss1442, on Flickr

Yes the turks head (or neck if you will) is tied around a dowl I pull the eight strands through the 4 strand loop and tie it like you would a multiple strand nose button on a bosal.

Ok, I have the buttons back on now. rawhide hobbles by ss1442, on Flickr

Seems like the problem is that you don't find the mistake until you go to split later and it would be pulling out a couple of time around.