thecruffler

Was thinking about modifying my plate from a boss. But wondered if there were any other options out there

So I’ve spent a little time on YouTube. I now know I’m going to need some shims for different needle sizes no big deal there since weaver carries them what else is a good idea to get for an Adler 205-370 to switch from canvas use to leather? I’m not terribly concerned about price since I picked up the unit itself for 900 as well as a consew 206 for another 500. ( I was stunned by the asking price myself, but they knew the original cost and that’s what they asked for). I figure a further investment in the right components is more than warranted I just know that a lot of the kit for my boss hand stitcher is seldom used so far And I’d like some opinions on what folks have found most useful I basically make leather armor, knife sheaths , holsters , belts, and pouches so far .

I just picked up a used Adler 205-370 from an old canvas shop have not set it back up yet. Any advice on what to watch for as I reattach the main unit to the base?

I haven’t seen any mention of this online. Not sure if it’s nationwide or not

Tape 8-1/2 x 11 sheets of paper all around them. draw a sketch on them with what features you want. Take off the paper and cut out the sections and shapes. And then the real secret..... get that fabric carpet padding. I initially got a 4 by 10 foot section for $20 trace the paper patterns you made onto the carpet padding with a permanent marker and cut it out. You can then piece the padding together with string or duct tape and create the entire outfit with carpet padding. add , subtract, or recut padding until you get the desire look and range of movement. use the carpet padding sections as patterns to trace the outline on the leather. you will seldom waste any leather that way.

A new helmet and a modified front plate tactical carrier

The easy part is the punching of the pattern. I have found the trick is to not overthink it. My best work is often the result of corrected mistakes. The central decoration on the gorget was me having to cut a v out of the middle so it didnt bulge. and then cover the cut. the stain work is simple too. antique stain. tan for the basket weave first. cover that with satin sheen as a resist. dark brown antique on the edges and non weave sections. its the only two colors i have found that contrast together so well. buckles are from the buckleguy as well as the rivets. conchos are from conchos.com Tools are just a few Tandy items Craft tool ez adjust stitching groover ( a must have for defining the pattern area) basket weave stamp a edge bevel stamp of some kind to transition the edge to the weave pattern. and rectangular stamp would do. the really cool thing is the rotary embosser from bunkhouse tools that you pattern the straps with.

Thanks! I started working on leather belts and pouches for Ren faire last summer.. one think led to another...and the armor was built over a period of about 6 months. One bit at a time. Everything was cut from patterns made out of posterboard. The heavy pieces are saddle skirting. It's actually a lot easier then it looks. the challenge is getting the shapes worked out. Two secrets are important. 1. The duct tape dummy. Couldn't have done it without that. you just tape sheets of paper together all over it and draw the shape then cut it up. then use that to make the posterboard pattern 2. Fiber carpet padding. the grey flexible stuff. cheap. bends like leather. cut your shapes after tracing the posterboard pattern on it with permanent marker Once you work out all the functional curves with the caprpet padding you can remake the corrected posterboard or just trace the padding onto the leather with a leather marking pen easy.

My first try at armor for the Ren Faire. Have a set of black chainmail that looks incredible as a base layer beneath it.