desullivan

Just found 4x6 inch plate 1" thick on ebay that was sandblasted already and pulled trigger on it. I will try the metal polish to keep it from getting surface rust and wipe it down before use.

Thanks Bruce! Now I know what to look for. I will try and find one or find steel plate that is similar.

I would be using it for copper rivets and other rivets. Belts and straps and saddle rigging. It just seems easier to rivet on my bench rather than balancing longer pieces on anvil while having hands full of tools. Aluminum will not work. Agree bounce needs to be avoided so the recommendations on metal 5hickness very helpful. The plate will be 5 or 6 inches wide and straddle the edges of two benches (i have gap due to 4" steel vertical beam on the wall the benches are on) and those benches have solid 4×4 inch wood posts. I plan to mount screw the plate to the benches. Stainless is pricy, may go with a cold finished flat steel bar and keep it clear of corrosion unless someone has recommendations to keep the steel as corrosion free as possible?

Thanks for the great advice! I need to try and find some material now.

Looking for any recommendations on steel bar plate to put on top of my work bench. I have separate anvil but want to integrate a strip of steel in a gap between two of my benches. Any specific info is very helpful like thickness, steel type and of course any feature to look for so I do not mar leather or have it be prone to excessive rust. Thanks for the help!

I purchased this skiver 20 years ago and am now just putting it into use in my shop. I found the Catalogue and Price List of Parts but am looking to see if there is an operating manual available or has any knowledge of this machine. Obviously needs to be cleaned up which I plan to do. All parts are moving freely despite any obvious corrosion. Bell knife has section of surface rilusrlt on the portion that was facing the presser foot while in storage and hopefully I can just clean that up. Blade edge looks fine. Any help or hints greatly appreciated.

Negative. Bought one that i will.use as guide for measurements and features if I ever stop using it to carry by side by side!

Message sent

How old is it? Any videos of it skiving leather?

Thanks for all the help- Campbell Randall sent me parts and operating manual electronic version.

Anyone have any experience with Tippmann 700 Clicker performance on 13-15 oz ? I am looking for a clicker solution different from my hydraulic H frame HF press. This will be for smaller saddle parts like rosettes, buck rolls, latigo keepers, and spur straps, chap parts and the like out of 13-15 oz Hermann Oak.

Keep the updates coming on the course and the experience and add some photos if you can! Enjoy your course.

Thanks HS- I reached out by email to Dan at Campbell Randall just as I posted this request and wanted to see if anyone from the forum had manuals as well.

Looking for Randall #132 Strap Cutter Users/Owners and Parts Manual. Ed

Nice work.

Dwight, Thanks for the recommendation on how you get vinyl to practice with.. Still does not equal the pattern route as I have described especially on fit and finish.

Dwight, Thanks for the suggestion- i have already done the Google and youtube search multiple times over. "Looks really simple to make" from an online picture will end in multiple iterations before success and wasted leather. Thats how i started making saddles and decades later still work to perfect patterns even on the simplest piece. LOL. Hence the pattern request. If all else fails and no pattern exist then of course I would go that picture route if I can not get a pattern that is close and adapt or find a asample that I could leverage to shorten the learning and creativity curve.

PastorBob- thanks for the recommendation but I did look at those patterns and not representative of the English classic style of gun slip I am looking for.

Anyone have a pattern for English shotgun leather slip case? Interested in flap and zipper closure style with plug at the tip/end. Would be for a side by side English style shotgun.

Looking for advice on building a new shop/building as part of a new leather business. This is not a question about converting my existing garage-my shop is already in my garage. Has anybody done this? Any experiences/recommendations for financing as part of the business? I will be getting with my accountant for input but just want to get any ideas or lessons learned from the leather workers. Thanks for any help.

Where are you located?

The riders review says it all and is the most important opinion!!! Nice saddle!!! The deer by the way look just like old traditional German carvings of deer/game. Nice work.

Nice work!!!!!!

Congrats on a nice saddle!! I am also a novice maker but here is some constructive input: Leather weight- looks a little thin since the seat and jockeys look like they are sinking down with gravity. Chances are it wont improve with rider weight and time. Consider a different tannery or more weight. Seat ears and buttons- I can't really see ears just the buttons but both sides are up to high where the cantle meets the seat. A riders back side may rub on those. Should be down below and slightly even but behind the cantle on both sides where it connects to the tree. Also- the leather cut in should be more of a rounded tight curve than what looks like a straight cut in towards the seat ear/button concho on the photo. Bottom larger concho is already folding up at petals which is sign of thinner and looser leather choice. Same photo-the stitching as you know looks a little sloppy- looks like that cursed machine took a vacation for a bout 2 or 3 stitches while you were doing the whole seat. They look like they pulled out or skipped. Not sure if you could have gone back over after pulling that section or not. Something to actually practice with your machine. I would not bother stitching around the seat as a reference but that is me. Cantle- straight up is the real tough one to do visually though simpler to get to the back side. From the photos- hard to tell how well you did with the hand stitching. The cut line of the left over material looks a little inconsistent or wiggly. The right tool helps but still no guarantee cause everybody will see it (at least that is the way I think but not really completely true-you will always see it) until it gets a little dust and dirt from first couple of rides. Rear billets- right or off side rear billet buckle holes or the stitching appears off center. Great stamping! Hope this helps