YRsaddles

string stick for sale on ebay, made with same wood

There is a used copy of stolmans on ebay check it out they are about 80 bucks each new, but you could probably get it cheaper from there.

yes the trees are designed specifically for the use..the horns that you are talking about are on a wade tree (actually a western ranch type saddle..made for all around ranch work and it is not white tape...is leather...wade horns are usually wraped with "mule hide" or latigo...in the old days it actually was mule hide and they were grey..but today they are mostly white and are really a thicker garment type leather like you would use for making aprons and such. As far as roping saddles...it is really a loose tree classification in terms of the type of horn used which is stronger and high enough so a roper can dally the rope and typically a lot of ropers like more swell on the fork than say a trail rider might..so they can lean their thigh against it while roping. in case you are wondering swell is a term that we use..talking about how far the fork extends beyond the point where the fork is attached to the bars...wades and slick fork or A fork saddles have virtually very little swell..where as a ropers and barrel saddles can have a good bit...do a search of wade saddle and roper saddles and look at the forks on both types and you'll see what I am talking about Dave,

the machine is spoken for thanks everyone dave,

Have artisan 4000 for sale for 2,500 ono if anyone is intersted. 3 years old but only used 20-30 hours. Immaculate condition kept inside house. Comes with 500 of attachments. Downsizing, and bought it for my wife to help out with stitching she doesn't use it. Attachments are Feedog , plate, screw, Center foot Left foot Right foot holster plate blanket feet full set Swing out roller guide Also with polyester thread 5 spools from ferdco, 3 off white, 2 peasant

who do you ship with is the machine in boxes or fully set up

hasn't been a very good year in my shop this year so I'm getting rid of a few spare tools...see my post in the FOR SALE thread..the price for the robert beard knife with blade is $95

I have a robert beard swivel knife i am selling if you are interested?

On ebay there is a lot of horseshoe brand hardware item number 200215025645 They have 2 round knives, horseshoe brand, and lots of front rigging and rear rigging plates as well as a new tack hammer. item 200215136547 is strap end punches c.s osborne 1 and 1 1/4 and a 2' bag punch and also some rons edgers size 2 and 3 itme number 200215029682. There is also a barry king mallet dont know the item number worth checking out

my friend has one on ebay along with two strap end punches, never been used. C.s osborne i think

Hey guys I'm selling my artisan 4000...paid $3600 for it new,it is few years old but only has about 20 hours of use..bought it for a second machine to have at home for my wife to use. but she doesn't use it. just taking up space. the price is $2500 obo. and comes with about $500 in attachments..presser feet etc. I'm located in georgia and if you have questions you can email me here or at (moderator eliminated email so you don't get inundated with junk mail, PM or email through leatherworker.net --Art)

here's my 2 cents on braided welts, personally I like the overall look of the braided welt vs single or folded welt. but one thing to keep in mind that unless steps are taken to slow down wear, the lace can be torn to pieces in a relatively short time. I've heard or saddle makers putting a type of varnish on the lace so it doesn't wear as quick...but I think wears issues can also be slowed with HOW you position the welt..refer to Troy's pics..the riders thigh won't rub the welt when it is positoned like that. Dave

Bill..you bring up some good points...I can't say about these HIGH END trees..like a said I've never used them...are they alot more expensive?...I personally like the line-x trees better...you build on them the same as a rawhide covered tree. nails..tacks and screws. they are A LOT lighter..and due to friction the nails,tacks screws are sealed when they go in...I HAVE tested this...done a few other tests myself...never tried the truck thing...lol..but really it comes down to preference...I just put out there to let ya'll know there are OTHER options...BUT let me make one thing clear I ONLY use the LINE-X covering...not any spray on bedliner..I've heard that they don't hold up as well...but I don't know for sure could just be rumor. That IS what this is about right...sharing info..learning...thats why I'm glad i joined this site...Is like one big collabroration between fellow leather crafters and saddle makers. ideas....ideas...ideas.. Dave

Herb Bork will definately have what you are looking for they have EVERYTHING...personally I think the 3 way is big and bulky..and like mulefool said that he sets the center at 7/8 and no one ever changes it...ya'll all know that most horse folks stick with the same types of horses..and though that the horses back will change over time..its not always a rigging issue...rock and twist might come into play...what then?? see my point? Its been my experience that most people that I have seen that have saddles that don't fit because of a bar issue not rigging. Dave

slick fork and an A fork are basicly the same thing...they are called that cause there is virtually no swell to the fork...and look like an A if you look at them from the rear.. it is a good choice for a first saddle because covering the fork is VERY easy. and forks that have a lot of swell are sometimes tough to cover without a welt and sometimes it can't be done without one. as far a sam stagg rigging.or a fork rigging or horn rigging..I don't know your skill at leather work but maybe a touch difficult for a beginner..but hey its all about learning right...most of my saddles either have inskirt rigging...dropped flat plate...or rigged with dees Dave

I agree with you Bruce as far as the rawhiding and the braiding goes...some tree maker's produce a lot of trees and sometimes the quaility is lacking...is sorta why I'm leading toward now using line-xed trees instead of rawhide covered. costs about 25 bucks here and I don't have to worry about the bumps and ridges lacing can make. I know you asked before about the coating and I mentioned that bowden offers a "tuff kote" also...well I asked around and a good friend of mine...my mentor and recently retired saddle maker told me that bowdens kote peels off..not like line-x. One thing though..I've never used timberline and nikkel trees could give me contact info? I'd like to see how a TOP quality built tree and a line-x coating would go together..might be the thing that dreams are made of. Dave

I mainly use a guy here in GA..but Bowden makes a pretty good tree..though I don't get theirs covered...I buy their uncovered wood trees and then get them spayed with line-x...but heard Timberline makes a good one..never used them though..talked to a guy in TN but he won't ship uncovered trees. actually am looking for a few other suppliers if ya'll can give me contact info on a few. And I only want uncovered trees. I saw a couple of ads from the Big book online...Black Mesa tree company and Baties custom trees...Anyone used them??? Dave

Amen Michael, I found that people will consantly try to get something for nothing...I've had plenty of people I've had to politely show the door...they seem to think a one man operation can crank out 20 saddles a week and that I should be able to compete with all the other manufactured saddle company's price...I say I don't manufacture saddles here I do custom work and it comes with a custom price. Dave

the dremel tool works great and use it from time to time...but mainly when I'm hand stitching I use an awl and it has to be VERY sharp..most of the tools you by will have to be sharpened before use...all I use is saddle skirting...and if you can't go through several layers of skirting easily then the tool isn't sharp enough..remember this...a tool that isn't sharp enough will hurt you A LOT easier that one that is Dave

not really..been around for a while...just another way to fit a horse...and so easy to use

I use equimeasures and yes they are short and you gotta get the western extension..yet another way they get money of you..but it really does work...if put on correctly and allowed to set properly...you can see the scapula and EVERYTHING on a horses back that we need to know about...so fit shouldn't be a problem anymore...but I personally don't think enough saddle makers use them...TOO EASY And yes I agree with the part a horses back will change and that a saddle that fits near perfect might not fit well later on as the horse ages or fills out as the training progresses...all I was saying was that there are A LOT of things out there that can make our job easier... I tend to use the equimeasure as a starting point and plan tree selection accordingly..allowing for possible changes in the horses back down the road. Dave

Do any of ya'll use an equimeasure? it sorta takes all the quess work out of tree and rigging selection..Not to step on anyones toes...but with all the technology out there today..I don't understand why saddle makers as a whole don't use it...yes part of it is tradition and I do know that there are gimmicks out there..but some of it makes our job easier...and personally I'm ALL for something that makes speeds things up and puts more money in my pocket. Dave

Yes the round cut edgers

To get a really good edge..I will run an edger over both sides...Ron's edgers are the best...expensive but worth it.. I like the way you can pretty much do anything and the tool doesn't leave "tracks" on your work. next I will rub leather balm over the edge and burnish it up real good..then apply edge kote..also I've found that thick 1/2 inch felt bent in half and stuck between a clothes pin makes the best applicator for applying the edge kote..just make sure you "break it in" by running it across a DRY edge first the create a groove. then when it is dipped in the dye it won't get in places it shouldn't.. Dave

So what are you having problems with??? the over all shape..round skirts? square skirts? old timer? let me know how to help and I try my best to get you on the right track. Dave