YRsaddles

Do you have the Al Stolman books..there are patterns in the books that can be modified to make any patterns you want. Making "NEW" patterns is the fun part in what we do..you can put your own to any saddle you build. Dave

sorry Ben, I must have misunderstood your post. I went back and looked at that knife sheath thread. some one also named Dave was talking about Jim's work and I thought you might have confused him with me when you posted that thread the day...sorry about the confusion..my fault Dave

What I meant by the comment about not wanting to be known as a hand tooler...I that I would rather to be known a a saddle maker than a hand tooler..make sense? I'm a fairly good hand tooler, but its just decoration. With all the pieces of junk they sale in tack stores. I'd rather folks come to me for saddle that fits and is made right..than have folks come buy art. and I think you got me confused with another Dave Dave

I would also agree with Bruce..Al Stolmans books give you a good deal of knowledge. and if you have a fair amount of experience with the tools then making a decent well fitting first saddle is well within anyones grasp. Just know that the AL does things in the book aren't always the easiest way to do it. Jerimah's videos are good too..and I actually like his tooling layout video too. Though I don't want to be KNOWN for hand tooling..I'm always trying to improve. But learned most of what I know by apprenticing in a saddle shop.

Bill, As you see from the from all the replies, most of us will use ANYTHING that works. I've ground and cut blades on knives to make the work for certain purposes...really the only hand tools I haven't modified are my edgers and round knives.I find tools all the time that I can make leather tools out of. I know a few saddle makers that grind down one end of a flat head screwdriver to make a bleeding tool. Dave

Hey everyone, Anyone know a supplier that makes a cutting surface that comes (4 foot by 8 foot) sheets or bigger? I'm looking to replace the one I have on my cutting table. the company I got it from in NC is no longer in business. I need something that won't dull my round knives. I can't seem to find anything on the web. Dave

Really, I've been looking at skivers as well. fairly easy to operate? what kind of things will it skive? I think you've made some good points on the clicker. if I were to click most of my parts. not only would a be producing a cookie cutter saddle, but I'm sure getting dies made out of my patterns would be a HUGE cost. I'll have to do more research on that one. I'm glad you replied to my post

No it is not the pizza cutter thingy. but I asked the same question when I was starting out , so don't worry I'm not making fun of you. A round knife and a head knife are pretty much the same thing, the head knife has a blade that has a 180 degrees of cutting surface..like half a circle...a round knife has more than 180 degrees of blade..make sense? yeah we're ALL on a budget but when you can afford one, it is well worth it..and cutting is MUCH cleaner and easier Dave

what I want to know is..if I'm planning on using the clicker to cut out bigger parts like fenders, ground seats parts, seats, rear jockeys etc. will a 10 ton do the job?? or will i need to go bigger...just looking for a place to start my research before I buy. brands to look for...customer service Dave

Ok guys, I've been pondering to idea of buying a clicker. I realize it will save me lots of time cutting out saddle parts. My question is where do I begin my search for the right clicker for my business? 10 ton, 20 ton? I'm looking for a looking for a clicker that won't put to SERIOUS of a dent in my wallet, but one that I won't have to get fixed or upgrade later on. I know you saddle makers out there will know the kind of parts that I'll want to click and the dies that the clicker will need to be able to handle. Dave

well If I were you and I was going to buy stones..I'd try to find ones that have a large surface. if you are eventually planning to get a round knife you'll need the large area to do your sharpening, you really won't need the really coarse stones..med is fine to get the first edge and then going to a fine stone...then I use 500 and 1000 grit sand paper if I need to touch up the blade before stropping it I use sand paper on my swivel knife blades as well. there are also several types of kits you can buy for sharpening round knives that attach to bench grinders. they work really well but you have to be careful not to heat the blade up too much, or you'll risk losing to temper of the steel. Dave

I would suggest you actually find someone that has that swivel knife and try it out before you buy. I have one of Robert Beards swivel knives. the BEST i've used..but before I got that one I went though several different ones. I realize everyone no matter the level of work they are doing, business or hobby is on a buget, But I truely believe the when it comes to tools...you get what you pay for.

Wow I'm impressed...nice eyes Bruce...the trees are wood "tuff coated" trees. basicly means a wood tree sprayed with Line-x. I get them made from a tree maker here in Georgia. I know Bowden offers a "tuff coat" but I don't know if it is the same product. It won't peel, crack, or come off in any way. and the coat COMPLETELY seals the tree. A little prep work is required though, Sometime there are drips in the coat and those have to be sanded smooth. If you want MORE info on these trees. just ask. As far as the cantle. again good eyes. The seat is actually a half seat. You don't really see them that way anymore ,sort of an OLD school look. thats what the customer wanted in this case. a blend of old and new.

Yes, I prefer an all leather ground seat over the metel or fiberglass ground seats whether or not a padded seat is going in.

first is a saddle that was recently finished, then there are 2 that I'm woring on now. in progress. I will post more pics of the two in progress and ya'll can see them take shape and will post some pics of other saddles and tack that I've made later on so check back. and before you ask those aren't ralide trees they are wood "tuff coated" trees

Ok, I hope I don't step on anyones toes, and I hope I didn't over look it by reading too fast,I think ya'll forgot to mention the round knife. I know ALOT of people that that round knives and head knives are just for saddlers. but in my opinion the round knife is single most valuable tool when it comes to ALL forms of leather work. I promise you. if you take the time to get it SHARP and keep it that way, you'll wonder how you'll ever got along without it.

well to be honest really the only dying that I do is dying the edges on ALL my parts. 99 % of all my saddles are oiled and tan koted only. for example if a customer wanted a black saddle I'd buy sides that are that color,saves time plus if you can buy it from the tannery you can get the dye "blown through" meaning the dye completely impregnates the leather, so if the leather is cut or skived the leather will be that color throughout

There are many different types of rigging out there...Typically the two that are used most often are "tree" type rigging in which the rigging uses rings or dees and then the rigging leather is nailed directly to the tree, the the secong most common is inskirt rigging, where rigging cees or plates are rivoted in between the skirts. Both are very good and thats what I'd recommend that you use one or the other. As far as position. that REALLY depends on the horse and how the tree sits on the horses back, also another thing to take into consideration is what the saddle is being used for, roping, barrel racing, trail riding ect. there REALLY are no "rules" as far as rigging and position generally the horse and rider dictate what rigging and position I will use. Did that answer your question? or did you want to know what was my preference on which types were the quickest and easiest to install?

these are pics of my last saddle and two that I am working on now, one I have just start to put in the ground seat that other has the ground seat in and I have covered the fork and wrapped the horn. more pics to follow as I complete the next twoposted one pic twice sorry guys heres the one it is supposed to be

hey bob, I'd try Bork Saddlery hardware, I haven't used them in years but they make just about any kind of rigging you can imagine

Nice work, I need to introduce you to my wife, shes been dying to learn to do that, how long did it take?

Hello everyone, I find the site great, was upset to find it go down after I registered the day before, So here I am again. Its good to see that our passion of leather is growing. I have been building and repairing saddles for the past several years and have just recently decided to go into business and will have pics and my site up soon. Take care all and hope to talk to everyone real soon.