Hilborne

A Google search for "How to Blacken Brass" will get you started, but finding the ingredients could be a problem. So what I use was purchased at a local Wood Working store. They sell tools, hardware, etc. They also sell paint and varnish, and in that department I found a product called "Bass Darkening Solution" It is distributed by a company called WSI Distributors, located in St. Charles, MO. USA. It works real quick, less than a minute usually for me. I buy brass buckles, spots, rivets, etc form Tandy locally, and like most modern brass goodies, it is plated, and then sealed in a varnish or shellac. On a buckle the best way I have found to remove, and very quickly, was with elbow grease and 000 steel wool. Dip or paint on the solution, it turns black, and then buff and shine with brasso to my liking. I like things with an antique look, and just getting the sealer off with steel wool, and given some time and use the brass will take on a patina. Quick story about horse tack. In the USA as the West was being won, the Horse Mounted Calvary would ride out across our open country and their brass hardware and buckles would shine and reflect the sun and could be seen for miles away. Not good. The enemy would see them coming. So the calvary had a quick method of dipping the brass and making it black, and then could be polished again if necessary. Bad part of the story, I used to know what that method was, but can't remember, and the web site I found it on doesn't have that story anymore. So the local woodworking store came to my rescue. Andy

Marlon, Nice looking belt. I like the buckstitching. You said you used thin rawhide, is this something store bought, or did you cut it? I have some rawhide lacing I bought from Tandy, but it's way to thick for what I wanted for. Andy

You might have a look at "Track Of The Wolf" http://www.trackofthewolf.com/

Whinewine. " let it dry flat (outside on your deck or inside in the garage)" You guessed it is in a rolled up condition, and you are right. Here's the real problem, there is three feet of snow on the deck, and the garage is not heated and currently at -20F, so I'll just bite the bullet and lay it out down stairs. So to the bath tub, and then out to the garage to find my tin snips, they should warm up by the time it dries and I need some more. Thanks guys. Andy

Chuck thanks for the reply. I was looking at some of your work a while back and thought I should add rawhide to my collection. I've used the tin snips, but just thought maybe there was another way. I tried your coffee recipe yesterday and got good results. Would you share your secret on how you get the antique finish? If not I'll understand. Thanks. tashabear Thats doable, but I just need a square foot or so out of it right now, and I have no idea what soaking it every time I want a small piece will do to the leather. Andy

I have a piece of rawhide (cow) that I have been cutting small pieces off along the edge to experiment with. Now I want to get serious about using some of it and I'm looking for the right tool to cut it with. When it's soaked I don't have a problem, but the piece is too big to get in a bucket, and I only need a square foot or so. Thanks. Andy

(Can someone tell me what is in this picture that shouldn't be in this picture for this particular finish???) Looks like you marked stitching holes top and bottom and didn't stitch. Picture isn't clear enough, but maybe you even put your awl through them.. I've made that mistake and just got it wet with dye and used the tip of my deer antler to burnish it and the holes mostly disappeared, and left a decorative line. Concealed no one will notice. Andy

And another WOW! This is really neat. I'm trying to come with an idea to make my youngest daughter a small purse and this sure gets me thinking. I too would like to see some pictures from the back and side. Thanks for showing this. Andy

This is super. I'm about to try making one to use with a 9x12 sketch pad, and I'm curious how you approached the inside. Got any pictures of the inside? Andy

Clay, looks like everyone had fun. Rapid City and the Hills is my favorite area. Can you share where the picture of the buffalo came from, I need one like that. Thanks. Andy

Thanks for the comments. My mother purchased the knife in Bermuda late 1950's as a gift for me so I've had the knife for 50 years. Over the years it has had a lot of use and probably when I was younger a lot of abuse. It has made a good camping knife and has sentimental value. It was probably made that way, but when I got it out thinking of a sheath for it I questioned my own memory. In any event I think my next project will be a new sheath for it. Thanks. Andy

I have a 4 1'2" George Westenholm Sheffield hunitng knife that is in need of a new sheath. My question is the bolster appears to be bend backwards and I think it should be straight, or at a right angle to the blade, can I bend it back and if so how to do it with out breaking if off? Or should I just clean it up, put a new edge on it, make a sheath, and keep using it? Andy

I lurk on the forum alot and probably should butt in more often. A lot of top notch things posted here, but for some reason this one brings a tear to my eye. This is really nice. If you have some more work to post, I'll sure look at it. Thanks for posting. Andy

So I got up and went to Church this morning and look what I missed. So how about guys start a list and pass it on when your through with it. I'm interested. Thanks. Andy

Wow! This is really nice. I'm sure the customer will like it. It's a shame to make it so nice and then stick in your pants. Andy

Don, Thanks for posting the pictures, I got involved here just prior to the crash and got lost in the shuffle so I haven't seen this work. I'm sure you will generate quite a few hits. I like them all. Andy

Big, I'm one of the newer ones here, and really shouldn't be giving advise, but what the heck you asked for it. I think the first thing to do is get a proper gun, you did that. Second is to decide to buy two new holster for it at approx cost of $150 or go buy some proper tools and spend $145 and make you own. You chose the latter. Good so far. Your pictures are a little dark and out of focus on my end, so I'm curious what you used to punch the holes? You got the basic idea down, do another one, each one gets better. Next time you're at Tandy pick up their catalog if you haven't, Stohlman's "How to hand Stitch" is also a good book. When I bought the "How to Make Holsters" book by Stohlman, it rang up at $7.00 or $7.99 on sale. Andy

Nice looking rig Jordon. A guy should probably always make a belt to go with the holster. Andy

Thanks to all for the nice comments, you have me pumped up. Regis, I burnished what I thought would be hard to get at first, and the edge on wing was last thing I did, after stitching. I used Tandy's Eco-Flo water base dye in Timber Brown for the main holster, and when I burnished the edges I used Tandy's Dark Mahogany dye. I have a small piece of deer antler that works pretty good for the burnishing. I dyed the leather first before stitching and molding, then it has a second coat after the holster was dry. The top coat is Tandy's Acrylic Resolene, which is a high gloss finish. Andy

I got lots of good comments on stitch first mold last or mold first and stitch last. I had a PM from someone who I would think of as a professional in the business and I thank you for the note. He said the pros stitch then mold. So being left handed I thought I would heed every bodies method and did a mix. I stitched the piece around the mouth which is also the belt loop in the back on. I made a template of where I thought the stitching around the trigger guard and frame should go and marked this on the flesh side. That area got Barge Cement and I actually let it dry overnight. Then I gave it a quick bath and stuffed the gun in there. After molding and boning I made a light tracing around the trigger guard and down the holster and put down a stitching grove, then stitched. Fortunately my glue job was pretty much on the money otherwise it would have been more difficult to stitch. So to sum it up, stitch first, mold last. Comment and Criticism welcome Andy

Srigs I'm in the West Suburbs and see on the local forum you and some of the other holster nuts get together once in awhile. You guys have a holster party in the planning? I liked to observe if I could. Thanks. Andy

WaG53 I'm going to experiment with this idea. Taking the day off from work and think I may have to work on a new holster. Billsotx I have Stohlman's book and it is worth the dime and then some. I'll take your advice on the mole skin. I tried a pair of gloves, and although they are real thin of a man made material to act and wear like leather they are too sticky and didn't really keep from irritating the cuts on my fingers. I think part of the problem is I just get too excited about doing it and can seem to slow down. At the time of stitching I don't feel the pain. Andy

I appreciate all the helpful comments. Boomstick assumed the use of a sewing machine, mine is a Sore Pinky model with both left and right hand operation, usually running horizontally North and South. Unfortunately I read the manual after I used it and ended up with a couple of bloody fingers. I think I'll stick with my current method of stitch first then mold. I just need to perfect it a little. Jordon you have a good point about molding too tight around the trigger and one should keep that in mind. On the other hand I haven't heard of one going bang because of it, but have heard of a police officer having an accident with a Glock. He was wearing a piece of clothing that had a toggle hanging on his strong side and it got tangled up in his trigger guard when he holster it and didn't realize it until he took the weapon out and it pulled the trigger. Thanks for the comments everyone, I'll put a picture up as soon as I get another one done. Andy

The first two pictures are of my first. An early stage picture and the finshed product. I probably did a few things backwards, particularily I dyed last, and the dye didn't take too well. The third picture is my second holster and isn't quite finished yet. It will be an IWB with two straps one on the post you can see on the front of the throat, and the other will be on the wing on the left side. I have some questions. What is the appropiate way to finish the inside of the holster. In the last thread today K-Man made a comment "mold and then stitch". This is in regards to the stitching close to the trigger guard and along frame. So am I struggling with where to put my stitching so it all works out, or should I mold first and then stitch? Andy

Brian, I hang out on the Stey Club forum. You might find this post on making kydex holster interesting and if you read down on the post you will find a few more links to look at. http://www.steyrclub.com/f/viewtopic.php?p=28730 Andy