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ZigZag

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Everything posted by ZigZag

  1. Thanks cowboy Bob, they have these at college sewing so will try this and see how I get on. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. Thanks Glenn, I’m going to try cowboy bob’s recommendation and see how that works out. But I appreciate your ideas.
  2. Hi all, I want to add a raw edge, single fold, bias binder attachment to my Juki1508. There appears to only be a single threaded hole in the sliding bobbin cover plate and 2 threaded holes closer to the front edge of the bed. Is there a particular style or make of binder I should be looking out for. I’m based in the UK Thanks Nick
  3. Hi kgg, I’m working with acrylic marine canvas. It is pretty heavy weight and some is polyurethane coated. I usually sew 2 - 3 layers, but that can go to 5 layers or with leather chafe patches. I also work with clear flexible window materials. Many of the seams are glued with double sided tape as well. I’ll try the larger needle and see how I get on. Thanks for the advice.
  4. Thanks for this, much appreciated. I’ll give it a try.
  5. Hi, I’m trying to set up my Adler 166, a zig zag machine to take a V92 thread. The needle type for this machine is 328 / 214 / DDx. The smallest needle size for this type that I can find in the UK is size 21 or 130 to use a V138 thread. Does anyone know if there is an interchangeable needle type that has a size 19 or 120 needle in the range. Thanks Nick
  6. Thanks for the replies, looks like sticking with the round points. But I think I might have a tweak with the bobbin tension to see if I can tidy the stitches up. I rerouted the spool to first machine twist post, which I think has helped untwist the thread, so looking neater.
  7. I’m familiar with the diamond shape tip with leather and how it sets the stitch. I also sew a lot of heavy canvas and currently use a simple round point 135/17 size 19 needle with v92 thread using a Juki 1508. I’ve seen all sorts of shaped needle tips on offer from Schmetz. Are there any alternatives worth trying? The objective is to improve the quality of the stitch. I’ve tried using diamond needles but they tend to slice the canvas fibres leaving a slightly fluffy underside. thanks
  8. Thanks Michiel, much appreciated. I’m aware of the left / right timing issues, but it keeps missing a left hand stitch every once in while and when timing, the hook does look a little low in the scarfe. I’ll try dropping it a mill and see how it goes. thanks Nick
  9. Hi all, I’m trying to retime my zig zag Adler 98, but despite loads of research I can’t find a service manual. The 98 is based (I think on the 67). Does anyone have any reference that might help. thanks Nick
  10. Thanks Uwe, good to know you have had good experiences with them. I feel more confident about placing an order. Much appreciated.
  11. I see Kong Hing are requesting bank transfer only as a means of payment. Was the transaction all ok for you Uwe?
  12. Thanks for sharing the details of this Uwe. Looks very interesting. Do let’s us know how you get on with it and what the capabilities are. Hope it works out well
  13. The Juki 1508 is a great machine. Strangely enough I bought mine to replace a Seiko STW8, which is a copy of the 111. The other huge bonus for me was having a large bobin, I was forever changing the smaller one in the Seiko. I really don’t have any complaints about the 1508, it even uses the same feet.
  14. I’ve used copper for years, this was the first time I’ve used brass and I was wondering what to expect, and as you say a tad harder to cut and you need to be a smidge harder with the hammer, but really not a whole lot different. I’ve mixed brass rivets with copper burrs and it looks really good.
  15. Thanks, it’s a project I really enjoyed making it. The knife handle is micarta. The knife was made by Jimmy at Dreadnought Forge. He made this to my requirements with lots of input from him as to how it would be used etc
  16. You are absolutely right about the drain hole and it is something I forgot about. drain holes on the way. This set up is more for working on the boat after or before sailing. Often I hang a knife in the cockpit or by the helm so it can be used by any of the crew. Thanks for your thoughts
  17. Haha, I know what you mean, I love using it just because it is also a beautiful object. It’s made by Myerchin and can be bought on line. I seem to recall around UK£20
  18. I too have over 40 years of sailing. The key to a good rope knife is the grind. If you polish the edge it’s is useless, but sharpen it with a medium coarse stone so the blade has micro serrations and it becomes as good as serrated. The steel used for the blade also plays a large part. This isn’t a set up I would ever go sailing with. Too heavy and leather isn’t right for the super wet environment. When sailing I carry either a pocket knife or neck knife in kydex. This I use when on the mooring and doing rig maintenance or fancy rope work just for fun. The pliers, blade and spike are a friction fit so nothing flicking anywhere.
  19. Thanks, yes a belt is on the way with a bid brass shackle for the buckle. The knife is custom made by Jimmy at Dreadnought Forge in Ireland. The marlin spike is from Myerchin and can be bought online. Brass rivets were from eBay and came from China. I use copper too, not much different really, slightly harder metal. They dome no problem at all.
  20. Finished this matching combination sheath and riggers ditty bag all in Leather & 18oz duck canvas with brass rivets and Ds. Oil dyed veg tan for the sheath and oil dyed goat for the bag. What do ya reckon?
  21. Hey Rocky, that is fascinating and thank you for sharing. I generally sew with V92 thread and 190 needles and I’m hoping to sew through at least 1mm. Or I could move up to the big 441 and make the stitching more of a feature. Great to hear the material is holding out. I’ll be giving this a go over the next few weeks so will update you. thanks Nick
  22. Hi, looks like some very interesting projects you have on the go. Where about in the UK are you? I have a Seiko STW8b with servo Moro’s that I’m looking to sell. Your welcome to try it out if you are localish. I’m in Hampshire.
  23. I have some nylon ordered so will give that a go. Not going to let on exactly what the intended use is, but imagine an air vent with slats and a rain cover stitched to the side of a canvas tent. That kind of thing. So a wide brim with a stitching grove printed and then a slightly thinner material to print through.
  24. I was wondering if anyone has tried sewing a 3D printed object to a piece of leather? What type of filament would be suitable to be stitched?
  25. Well, the Juki 1508 that I missed out on came back up for sale so I snapped it up. Very pleased. Thank you all for your input.
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