mworthan
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Everything posted by mworthan
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Craigslist is listed for $4100. Guess I lied...
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Just relisted on Craigslist and Leatherpros for $4400 OBO. This looks to be about the bottom to start dickering down a little. Thanks, Mike
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ASKING $4500.
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I am located in Rome, GA. Northwest part of the state. Work in Atlanta. Could met in a neighboring state I suppose. Thanks, Mike
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Well, I appreciate all of your feedback. I am not crazy about selling my stitcher but had decided to look into the market to see what it was worth and would still entertain offers. I appreciate the feedback and if anyone is interested, I would like to know...Thanks,Mike
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thanks. think i will keep it. stitches to pretty to give it away
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Folks. Tell me what its worth. Maybe I'm crazy... just know they ain't cheap.
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price reduced to $4800.
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For Sale - I have a Campbell Bosworth Lockstitch machine purchased from Campbell Bosworth about 7 years ago. I comes complete with the stand, bobbin winder, assorted tools and extra pulleys, just as it shipped from CB when I purchased it new. I have sewn very little on it. I have used 1 spool of thread since I bought it. Works perfectly and is oiled every time it was used, again very seldom. I will post pictures later, but has been kept in conditioned shop since my purchase and wanted to get it out here if folks are interested. Since the questions will be asked, I am selling because I don't have the time to do this anymore, own a small machine and can use that for what little I do. I live in Georgia and would probably require that you pick it up. Shipping would be a serious chore and I cannot deliver. I would rather deal face to face. I paid $6197.00 new. I am asking $5200. Make me an offer.
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4Th Saddle Completed For Nephew's Christmas
mworthan replied to mworthan's topic in Saddle Construction
Thanks, yea the binding looks like crap and I need to start pulling harder on the cantle back so the roll lays over at a harder angle. Thanks for the input. I appreciate it. - Mike -
This sort of reminds me of the other bit of blasphemy I have personally committed by reaching for (get ready) a utility knife with a hook blade for the majority of cutting I do. I still use a round knife for cutting and in certain instances it is the only tool for the job but I am not going to ignore the possibility of using a more utilitarian tool with disposable blades if it quickens my work without comprimising quality. Plus, it allows me to easily cut tight curves in heavy leather.
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Perfect, I'll order one. Sounds like this is one of those needs folks figured out a long time ago and just took posing the question to the right folks. Thanks, Mike
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Thanks, I'll do it. Mike
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Does anyone know of a binding attachment that would work on a Singer 211G155. Most of the ones I have seen require the two tapped accessory holes on the bed and I am pretty sure that this Singer lacks those. Please advise me if I am wrong and have been oiling a tapped hole in the bed. - Thanks, Mike
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I struggled with this. Decided to make what was essentially a car payment for five years and lease a Campbell Bosworth with a $1 buyout at the end. Decided to make the investment for the best stitch. I have been very satisfied and has been paid off for a few years now. Just picked up a 211G155 Singer (wish now I had reverse) for nylon work and see the need for both. Whatever you decide, the investment in a stitcher will be the best investment in a piece of equipment to keep moving forward in the business of leather work. One of the walking foot machines may give you more flexibility. Good luck and God Bless, Mike
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Technique - How To Lock The Stitch With A Singer 211G155?
mworthan replied to mworthan's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Thanks Art. Easy enough. Mike -
Hello, I have a specific question regarding sewing technique with a 211G155. I have sewn with my Campbell needle and awl machine in leather for years but have recently purchased a machine to sew nylon and thinner goods. I have always locked my stitches on the Campbell by lifting the foot and making another stitch up, and over to the side of the last stitch. I know you cannot and should never try to reverse the Campbell. Is it the same with this Singer without reverse? Or, can I (by hand wheel) reverse the stitch to lock my starts and stops? Thanks, Mike
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Hello, Wanted to wish everyone here a Happy New Year and thanks again for all your help this past year. Just finished my nephew's saddle in time for Christmas and wanted to send a long a few pictures for review. I am lacking (as far as I know of ) of many local saddlemakers to bounce my work off of for critique. This is the forth one I have made and would welcome some feedback. Please point out where I can stand improvement and how best to get there. Thanks, Mike Worthan Rome, GA
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Source For Bars For Packsaddle
mworthan replied to mworthan's topic in Saddle Supplies, Tools & Trees
Yea, I know what you mean. Timberline has them in their price list, but I'm not sure if there is much shape to them or not. No pictures or other information. -
Given my recent post concerning pack saddle bar shapes, does anyone have a source or tree maker willing to sell bars to construct packsaddles on? I would like to buy without stirrup grooves of course. Just want to exhaust my options. Thanks, Mike
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And I guess here lies the conundrum... I live in an area devoid of saddletree makers and have yet to find a video series or that kind of foundation needed to start. Nothing like what is available in saddlebuilding. Oh well, I'll do some head scratching and maybe take measurements and tracings/contours off of some of the trees I have in stock that seem to fit really well. Thanks for your time and advice. You are prolific contributors and I appreciate it very much. Mike
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Now that's what I'm talking about. That has to be, so far, the only properly shaped and just prettiest sawbuck tree I have ever seen. I don't get it either. That dead weight is so much harder on them and we rotate riding and packing animals. Besides, they are my buddies and if they are going to be looking out for me, I owe it to look after them. Do you think that this would be a good place to start if I were wanting to start dipping my toes into tree making? I have been a furniture maker for years so I understand Joinery and work as an engineer so I might be able to lean on CAD to help with mapping the shape of my horses backs and getting that into some sort of template format to check progress. I can see the complexity of fitting the bucks front vs. rear. Thanks, Mike
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Okay. I may be covering old, worn out ground, but here it goes anyway because I haven't found anything addressing this in the post on this board (as far as I can tell). It seems to me that the large majority of what is offered out there in regards to pack saddle trees seem to lack the complexity in shape that riding trees have. I don't see the rocker, twist and flare in pack saddles that would (I think) be far more comfortable for a horse or mule topack over long periods of time. I see almost no twist in the bars on most trees. I want to build three to four pack saddle rigs, nice rigs, skirted and maybe even tooled for my own use. I have asked tree makers if I could purchase just the bars for me to construct sawbucks on with little to no response. I understand that, no one wants to be a parts supplier. This has pushed me toward the idea of trying to "map" a set of bars that fit my particular bunch pretty well and just go for it in the wood shop. Can anyone out there enlighten me as to whether or not it is that neccessary to go to the trouble to incorporate the same fit in a packsaddle that you have in a riding saddle? To me it seems logical but there may not be. Thanks, Mike
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Thanks Andy. I'll try it next go around. Mike
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Andy, Thanks for the reply. By local building supply, i am asuming that the brand is probably something along the line of Weldwood? I am always a little suspect of the "true"differences in glues as i was about epoxies until I learned that most of them are derivitives of the same Shell product. With that being said, have you seen much difference in performance compared to traditional shoe type glues? I imagine not or you wouldn't use it. Also, any performance differences in water based vs. solvent based? I'm always interested in saving what few brain cells I have left. Switched over to water bourne wood finishes years ago building casework. Can you reveal your brand? Thanks, Mike in Rome