mworthan

Very good. Thanks very much. I'll give it a shot. Mike

Thanks Troy, I put these things into an outlined format for myself. I like to keep a binder with notes and these sorts of tips and advice. If I may impose, I would like to paste that in and have a few questions regarding some of the fine points. The steps are numbered and most of the answers should be yes and no. Here it is... 1. One main difference is I take my swell cover down a bit with my band knife. It levels it and thins it to about 10 Oz. I do not own one. Should I purchase lighter leather for this? 2. I roll it a bit on the bench to break down the fibers. 3. Then I fit it. – mark it and cut to fit (as close as possible)? 4. Usually roll the front under like on a wade. – Scalloped edge – no lip, right or are you actually doing a folded edge (wouldn't think so on an Assn Swell, too rounded, not defined edge)? 5. Put it back on wet but not dripping water. 6. Spread glue (all purpose) all in front and in the handhold and well out left and right of the horn. – left and right of the handhole in the back? 7. Nails in front at the base of the gullet making sure to center horn hole, slightly in front of the horn, 8. Then I cram as much leather in the handhole as can. 9. I take my dog pliers and pull as much as possible making sure not to pull too much straight down from the horn so the hole is not pulled too far in back of the horn. I also pull to the left and right in the handhole. – to take out slack along the back of the swell? 10. Nail in the front under the gullet. – nail along the front edge, correct? Now I have slack to the right and left of the swell. 11. I put a sheepskin on my bench, 12. set the tree at an angle on the corner and hold it there with my body. – Along the edge of the bench, hold with your belly? 13. Then I take my rubbing stick and push down from top of swell to the bottom, 14. then push to front and then to rear several times getting the cover to conform to the swell. – from the centerline of the swell to conform along the centerline? 15. Then take my large french hammer hand hammer on a piece of leather so as not to damage the cover. 16. Just forming the cover all around to the swell. 17. I then spread glue all up under the side I'm working on . I usually do this before I start shaping. Put it on the leather and the swell. 18. Then I try to split the difference with the slack and put a nail at the base, center of swell. As a side note, I try to direct my nails more into the base of the swell rather that into the bar. 19. Then split the difference between that nail and the front nail, pushing down with my rubbing stick and hammering with french hammer. I use the back of the hammer a lot doing this. 20. You just keep doing this between the nails until it is down. It is not as difficult as it may sound. 21. As it dries you can go back and hammer down any slight bumps. It will cover very nicely. Thanks again for all of the help and advice. I'll try to pay it along to others if I get the chance and brag on what nice folks ya'll are. Mike Just realized that the red questions didn't stay red when I posted. the questions are on numbers 1, 3, 4, 6, 9, 10, 12 & 14 at the end of your posted step.

Bruce, Thanks for the reply. I can't find the distributor in the US just by "Google-ing" it. I assume it is a superior product or maybe safer to use inside a confined space. Thanks, Mike

Thanks Bruce for the detailed instructions and tips. You spent a lot of time putting that together and I appreciate that. I was wondering what you use for glue on the cover? Some say white PVA, others say Barge put on wet. Troy, I look forward to hearing back from you as well. Take your time and respond when you get the chance. I appreciate all of the time, all of you take to share your knowledge. Very generous. Best Regards, Mike

Hello, I know I have seen threads with this topic covered but cannot find anything. Probably lost in the great crash. My question is... "What are the limits to swell shape that a fork cover can be asked to gather at the base trying to do a "no-welt" cover? Is it asking too much to try this with an Association type swell? Also, in a more general vein, how to most of you approach getting it done? Thanks, Mike

Good Morning, This is my first post and I wanted to first thank all of your for your gracious contributions to all of us to help further our knowledge, personally I have gained quite a bit. I am getting ready to build two inskirt rigged saddles and wanted to make sure that I understand the construction. I have created a quick sketch of how I think the process is generally accomplished with the style chosen using a back dee. Please excuse how rough it looks. Two areas that I am unclear about... 1. I generally think that the stitching would be accomplished to create a pocket for the front of the bars between the two layers that form the rigging and skirt. Is this correct? I also assume that my stitching would go around the front tip of the bars to form a shallow pocket, or do you just stich the circumference of the skirt to catch the rigging and skirt where the rigging ends in front of the bar tip at the gullet? 2. Also I believe that the rigging is skived to lay on top of the skirt then the skirt formed/blocked to allow for a rear plug. Then stiched where the two meet. Most of this stitch (including the top of the rear dee) is covered with the rear housing, fender and drop on the seat cover. Sound right? I am sorry to beat this to death, just wanted to make sure it is done right. Thanks, Mike Worthan Rome, GA

Mr Wright, Share... share...