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veritasleather

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Everything posted by veritasleather

  1. veritasleather
    I actually had it facing the right way, my mistake was that I had it way to hot, I had it set at 300c for paper according to the manual. The machines hot plate height from the bed comes set only about 1" clearance. I should have set that higher to give me more of a clearance to set the foil without touching the hot plate. But it was so hot that the hot plate sucked up the aluminum foil.
  2. veritasleather
    Yeah i am not sure if it is, the plate has a bit of weight to it so hopefully its not aluminum but not sure about magnesium. I have the Amazon (China) WT-90CT model. I will send a message to the seller and ask. They seem to be pretty good at responding.
  3. veritasleather
    Well it was worth a shot, tried to torch it and it didn't do much unfortunately .
  4. veritasleather
    Thats actually not a bad idea, I removed the plate, I can take my mini torch to it. see what happens, im sure i won't damage it, its meant to handle up to 300 C.
  5. veritasleather
    Hello, Just got a heat embosser and have been experimenting with different types of leathers and heat temps. I went a bit to hot and the heat plate just absorbed the aluminum foil paper and now I have all the residue left on the inner plate. Any idea how to remove this without sanding or using much abrasives? thanks for the help! Frank
  6. veritasleather
    Ok, so looks like the double sided tape and a good solid flat board is going to be key. I will have to get some MDF instead of ply just to be safe and order some double sided tape. I am also hoping once I stitch it down to a heavy layer of leather it will flatten as well. thanks again for your tips and advise fredk.
  7. veritasleather
    Fredk, so the Chessboard is a 22" x 22" square of veg. tan leather. (b) yes, I still want to put a backing or liner under the 5-6 oz. to stabilize it? but would still want it to roll. (c) doubling it up the thickness with a liner (d) I have 1/4 inch. thick plywood, would that work? don't have double sided tape, but maybe cement it to the plywood since I will cover the glued area with backing leather? Do you think this will straighten the leather or flatten it back?? thanks for your help.
  8. veritasleather
    Hey guys, I am in need of some advice, I have been working on a 22 x 22 chessboard for a buddy of mine. I am using Chahin Weaver veg. tan 5-6 oz. leather. I went ahead and used clear packing tape on the back and now I have cut all my lines and cut a 1 1/2 rose border. but now all of the edges and borders are beginning to warp or curl up. Honestly, its beginning to look like a giant valet tray lol. I still have a lot of stamping to go, should I just continue with tooling or should I remove tape and glue it to cardboard? I would appreciate the help? What would you guys do in my situation? Frank
  9. veritasleather
    Got it, thanks again! I will try it out.
  10. veritasleather
    @Stetson912 @JKHelms Great, yes thanks fellas, I will definitely try this, interesting on your pic @JKHelms, yours is stitched, i thought of that, but the customers current wheel is not stitched at all, he said they have had it for years but its begining to crack along the side.
  11. veritasleather
    Hey guys, I am making a 1" thick x 12" diameter veg. tan (sole leather) wheel with a 3/4 ID. for a knife co. they use it to knock off burrs after sharpening. I glued up 4 layers with Master's cement. My issue is that wheel is not very true or flat on the OD, I guess i didn't mate some of the edges that well. So, in some areas there is about 1/16th or less off on the edge. What would be a good way to flatten or even out the area? thanks! Frank
  12. veritasleather
    I think I can get their water stains, I am going to have try them out. And also dipping.
  13. veritasleather
    ok, I did my own test, I know most of you don't have to deal with this problem because you're not in CA. But i did test out the LOW VOC black Fiebings dye and I gotta say it was a pretty bad experience. I dyed a strap, let it dry 24 hours. I came back and it ended up pretty blotchy. And when I went to buff the cotton shirt I used ended up black with dye. I had to re-dye with pro oil black dye (Fiebings) again. After this, I had no problem, like night and day. Well, hope this helps someone.
  14. veritasleather
    Hey guys! I don't know if this has already been a topic. Has anyone compared Fiebing's Low VOC vs. their pro dye? I KNOW pro is the best! but here in Cali. its getting harder to get the pro dye. Just wondering if anyone has experienced the pros and cons when compared? Other than the harmful fumes of course. I guess I am asking performance wise. thank you all!
  15. veritasleather
    Since you have experience making leather pick guards with no backing, So far none have curled or lifted when left with no backing?
  16. veritasleather
    Ah yes! thanks for all the advise, I have some good options now to try. I am going to experiment with all of the above.
  17. veritasleather
    I totally missed the Formica part of your last post. Yes, looks like Formica might just work! I will have to go check some out, thanks!
  18. veritasleather
    Yeah bikermutt07 and HorsehairBraider, I thought about that, but it would be too tall. He gave me a .090 inch max height in total which is about 3/32nds and roughly around 6 oz. leather. I would like to keep the leather the thickest possible and backing be the thinner. Maybe if I find a cheap paper thin sticker type of pick guard?
  19. veritasleather
    Hey guys! I need some options and opinions on what to use as a stiffener/backing for some Tele style guitar pick guards. My customer wants me to make him a sample and I want to use the right type of backing to prevent shrinkage (if any) and of course to stiffen the leather? Do I even need a backing? is there just a finishing technic I can use? My customer wants a batch of these...so I better make it right the first time, know what I mean? thanks for your time!
  20. veritasleather
    Yes, definitely, I believe I am at about 5 per inch. I like the look so far. My "LL" needles are ordered, I am checking to see if they have the "LR" available as well. I didn't find any in the Cutex store. Lets see what they say....
  21. veritasleather
    Yes, and thank you for making the video with that purpose. It works, its functional, minimal gap under the roller, it goes away when you don't need it, comes right back, boom! I want! Simple as that, And I have definitely gotten about 90% of my C4 questions answered here and on YouTube, so thanks again! I am ordering the needles as well, hopefully they will send the right ones.
  22. veritasleather
    Great! This definitely points me in the right direction with needle selection. Thanks for clearing this stuff up. Also, side note: I recently discovered your holster downloads and edge guide video. cool stuff, and definitely going to try one of your holster patterns soon, and definitely order that edge guide from eBay. Thanks again sir!
  23. veritasleather
    JLSleather, I have had my Cobra4 for just a couple of months and I finally got it to stitch correctly, thanks to many of the pros on this forum. Your pick above shows what I would like my stitches to look like. I want to continue to use 277 nylon on both top and bottom. Can you give me a specific model number of needles for the "LR" and "LL" and maybe the vendor to order from? I have been reading a lot about needles but I get thrown off by all the 7x3, 7x4, 200/xxx etc. I think I know the series for my machine is 794. I would really appreciate your help, or any of you guys that can help me out. thank you!
  24. veritasleather
    My machine is also in a hot spot, I will definitely check the behavior of the thread and go from there , thanks!
  25. veritasleather
    MADMAXX22, I noticed when looking at my spool of thread that I had it set on the stand that the Leather Machine co. recommends for the bobbin thread spool. I don't know if this matters? So, this would be the stand farthest from the thread path. I will definitely check my spool of thread and see if it sticks anywhere, or if it pulls. mikesc, I will definitely clean out the tension assembly areas and look for dust and dirt. This all makes a lot of sense now. My machine is definitely in an area that can accumulate much dust. I will definitely look for snags. thanks guys!
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