Tugadude
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Posts posted by Tugadude
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I'll be keeping a watch on my local store. They may be opening next Monday, as the county in which they are located is going top begin opening up by then.
If they do leave the business there will be quite a void to fill. I've always believed that they had a niche where they catered to beginners and intermediates. Sure, they did do business with producers, but there are a lot of people who first laid hands on leather courtesy of Tandy.
Being able to bop in and grab a bottle of color or some hardware was a joy. Not having them would definitely be felt.
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1 hour ago, NeilMott said:
Thanks for the link. I like Ashland (they're from near where I live) and the picture there helps, but if this is truly horsebutt and that's where the shell comes from, I'm wondering if this is the top layer? I've emailed Maverick leather where I got it to see if they know. Will update when I hear back
Best,
NeilI am assuming the horse butt you are getting includes the outer layer of epidermis and subsequently will have a grain to it that is somewhat apparent.
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Notice how the thread in the "good" examples runs from the bottom of the slanted hole to the top of the slanted hole. It is this dynamic that results in the coveted "zig-zag" aesthetic of saddle stitching. Your method isn't achieving that.
Needle priority, which one goes in first, and then where the second one goes afterwards makes a huge difference in the look. It also is difficult to keep tension when you don't have good technique. Every stitch should be tensioned similarly in order to achieve a good, consistent appearance.
I urge you to review the Nigel Armitage primer on the saddle stitch.
edit: Just wanted to offer encouragement. There are a lot of people on this forum that have followed either Nigel's or Ian Atkinson's advice on the saddle stitch and it makes a big difference. Remember it is a process. Learn and understand the process and then practice and I'll be you will amaze yourself at the results.
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Another thing to think about is how you punch the holes. Did you glue the leather together and then punch all the way through? If that was difficult, due to the three layers, Nigel Armitage has a video showing how to punch individual layers and have them line up. I rarely have to do this because I don't tend to stitch very thick leather, but it can be a real help when going through multiple layers of 8/9 oz. for example.
The backside is always a bit of a challenge. Some people find that the backside of their work actually looks better, which is not the usual case. Nigel also talks about how to improve the look of the backside of your stitching in some of his videos.
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Looks pretty good for a newbie. Stitching is part process and part practice. You need both. When I started I had little to base my progress on and I got decent results. Turns out I just got lucky because I was using bad technique. Now I obtain consistent stitching because I follow procedure. There will always be certain leathers that will challenge you but stick to the process.
I own a set of those irons too and I like them very much.
Go check out the 'Sewing Leather' part of the forum and look for the "sticky" topic on irons. It has some helpful info.
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2 hours ago, yarberk said:
I have searched everywhere and I can't seem to come up with a vendor who carries 4 inch roller buckles OTHER than the one model that Weaver carries. I can get by with their Stainless Steel version for now but I have had several requests for black and even brass buckles for weightlifting belts. Anyone know of anywhere I can look to maybe find some? I've emailed a couple hardware websites and been told to search Amazon..... already tried that route! Thanks for any help!
I checked all of the likely suspects and came up empty also. I'm thinking your approach is either tell the customer that there is no choice of color (if they insist, tell them to supply their own buckle!) or purchase the stainless steel buckle and see if you can find someone that can put a coating over it to make it black or brass. There has to be a way to do it, whether it is economical or not is a different question.
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2 hours ago, NeilMott said:
Hey all.
I recently purchased some Horween chromexcel horsebutt and was wondering what the difference is between horsebutt and shell cordovan. From what I have read, the shell cordovan comes from the 2nd epidermis layer of the horsebutt and the tanning process is harder and longer than chromexcel. I assume the shell's tanning process is a veg tan process. I guess I'm wondering, is the horsebutt that I bought the outside layer of the leather? I'm planning on making this into watch straps. Here is the article I read on shell cordovan:
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/cordovan-leather-from-horween/
Thanks for your time,
Neil
This article should help provide some answers. Some of the characteristics that make shell unique is the lack of any outstanding grain and its ability to be polished to an almost mirror shine.
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Justanil, there is a "sticky" topic designed just for situations like this. I encourage you to check it out and to especially read what Nigel Armitage says about the saddle stitch.
As far as "how to", I encourage you to check out his videos.
Yes, it appears you are struggling a bit. For one thing, I don't know how you can stitch with the clam oriented vertically. I know I would have an issue with that. In practice, you want the clam to be oriented so that the stitching line is horizontal and the slants pointing down towards yourself. Stitching towards yourself is the norm.
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Suggest you go to the 'Marketing and Advertising' part of the forum. Lots of interesting threads and good information there. For example, this one from Johanna:
Regarding asking people for their advice, it doesn't surprise me that people in the business would be reluctant to share information. Some are very generous while others (probably most) are more protective. In my opinion, the leather business doesn't NEED any more leatherworkers. What it does need is innovative companies providing quality goods. Companies that move the ball down the field rather than walking over already trodden ground. There has been an explosion of sorts in the "minimalist wallet" segment over the past few years. What will be the "next big thing"? Find it or create it and you just might find your niche.
If you're just going to make belts, bags and holsters, the market is flush with those already.
Just my opinion.
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6 hours ago, DaveP said:
Received the Rocky mountain awl. It was nice. Loose in the handle. It's too short for my needs going through 3 layers of veg tan. They were very helpful with my return. They suggested a Vergez Blanchard. Received it yesterday. The length is great, blade needed some attention. Goes thru easily now. It still needs a little more work. They are very friendly and helpful with all of my questions. Again thanks for the help!
Recommend you check out Nigel's video on sharpening a saddler's awl. Some good advice therein.
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50 minutes ago, LiftPig said:
I could do that. The question is what to attach the flap side of the closure to. Is my "liner" idea valid?
I thought about line 24 but I can see her complaining about having to push on the outside of the bag and not having a firm enough surface or something.
This bag is painful. I wish it would go away.
Maybe attach the male part of the tuck to a short strap and attach the strap to that "liner". I could picture it being easier to open and close with a little strap to give it some slack.
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There's no reason you couldn't take the magnets off and replace them with tuck clasps. Once the flap is closed, the tucks are hidden underneath. I see this all the time with briefcases that have real buckles that show on top while the flap actually is secured by tucks that sit beneath the straps that go through the buckle. Similar deal here maybe?
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Or perhaps a 'button and string' envelope with a wax seal added?
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That's a great story! I just think it would be good for the OP to know exactly what they are getting into. If they are going to have to pay a huge premium as compared to standard letter rates, it would be helpful to know in advance.
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Quote
https://pe.usps.com/businessmail101?ViewName=Letters
I would check out the link above. I tried to find specific information on what materials are OK, but came up empty. I'm wondering whether the leather envelope, no matter the size, will be a lot more costly to mail if it cannot be processed like a "regular" paper envelope.
There might be a way to reach out to the USPS to get clarification. I would find out if you can even do it before proceeding too far down the path.
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This is an interesting and somewhat polarizing question. Traditionalists would tell you that what you are doing is NOT a saddle stitch, no matter how good it may or may not look when you are finished. There is more to saddle stitching than how the threads lay in the holes. As 'threepets' correctly stated, there is not way to properly tension the threads the way you are doing it. That might be O.K. on small leather goods which don't face much wear-and-tear, but it could be deadly (literally) if used on saddlery. Saddle stitching is as much about the process as the resulting aesthetic.
There is a company that produces leather goods and posts some really nice videos. The name is Corter Leather. They recently did a video which shows the way they stitch, which is similar to what you describe. They also tend not to use a pony, favoring just holding the items in their hands. Again, there is nothing wrong with that, but it isn't saddle stitching. It just isn't.
I always recommend watching Nigel Armitage's videos on the saddle stitch. Ian Atkinson is another good one to watch. They both explain the importance of proper technique with the saddle stitch, but they are also not so strict that they don't see the benefits of the "new" stitching chisels that help beginners learn to stitch.
In the end, use what works for you and for your products, just don't call it a saddle stitch.
Edit: But by all means, you can legitimately refer to it as "hand-stitched".
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3 hours ago, LumpenDoodle2 said:
I think it looks fine, but IMHO aluminium is nice and light in the hand.
I also have a mini lathe, but have not made a complete knife myself yet. Having small hands, and the start of arthritis in a couple of fingers, I experimented with turning a wider barrel, then refitting the finger crescent bit.
Mine is made of aluminium, and I think the knurling came out not too bad for an amateur. How did you put together the swivel part, I’ve not quite worked out the design for my next complete knife.
Excuse my tappy hammer.
That is some work to be proud of right there.
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I'm constantly impressed by the various talents here on the forum. Very nice job on that! Is the one pictured made from steel?
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15 hours ago, Draconias said:
I also came across this on etsy, and really like the modular design. I have made a couple of the bases out of maple, and have bought the clamps (for the base) from a local woodworking store. Currently working on a couple of shorter (7") clamps that will be 3" wide for my wife and myself. I don't care for the plastic handles, I tend to strip them out. I plan on just using a regular bolt through the bottom with a flat washer on both sides and tighten it down with a lock nut where it will turn for me but not be loose. I have rare earth magnets from my model airplane hobby I plan to insert on both sides of the clamps, and pickup one of the cam levers from Rockler for tightening the clamps. This is currently a work in progress, I'll post more pictures once I have finished it.
Very cool. You mentioned magnets and it got me thinking in a direction I hadn't before. I've seen where folks place magnets on clams or ponys to hold needles, etc., but I never considered using magnets to hold the jaws together.
Mush of the stuff I do is small. Watch straps, small wallets, etc. There is no reason why magnets wouldn't suffice to hold these kinds of lightweight items. So no need to clamp anything at all, quick and easy. Then if you are doing a large bag or something that needs to be clamped more securely you would then rely on whatever mechanism you have at your disposal.
Interesting.
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16 hours ago, motocouture said:
Hi all, figured I’d try braiding a Turks Head knot onto a rock just for fun and to try something new. Kangaroo lace in natural and burgundy, and the knot is a two-pass seven part six bight Turks ahead knot, using the instructions from a Ron Edwards leatherwork book.
now I need to figure out what to do with the rock
Extremely well done. You are really 'rocking it'! Is that a chunk of marble, or am I taking it for granite? Sorry, couldn't resist. It is actually quite cool. Not sure of any practical use, but it is an attractive paperweight.
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10 hours ago, RockyAussie said:
Well done!!!! Add some turks feet and a head and you got a pet rock dressed I think.
PS ...dont forget his little mask
Funny you say that because that was the first thing that came to mind. When I was a kid, Pier 1 Imports used to sell the pet rocks. What a weird thing those were. Of course Chia Pets aren't far behind.
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Very cool! Did you put the bladder inside? If so, how did you deal with the stem?
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Welcome!
Horsebutt vs Shell Cordovan
in All About Leather
Posted
Well, that helps a bunch. I'm sure it is quality leather and will suit your needs quite well. Since watch straps are quite small, in comparison to wallets and bags, a shell could yield a ton of them. At some point, you might wish to dive in and try one to see how it compares and whether it is ultimately worth it. If you've already used shell, disregard.
Springfield Leather was selling some shells for decent prices. Don't know if they still are, but you could check their site.
Make sure to come back and post some of your finished work. Would love to see what you come up with.