JHayek

I purchased a tree from laporte and it took several months till I received it. I was not that impressed with the finish work on the tree itself although it is fairly easy to shape it to suit you. I ordered what Shawn called their "quarter flat" bars which is supposed to fit a flatter backed muscular horse. It does not. It still has entirely too much rock to fit anything that doesn't have a decent set of whithers. Basically what a 90 degree tree would fit only now it takes a heavier pad because of the width in the gullet. The up side is that since this is your first saddle you don't have to worry about the rigging being square. If you use a wide centered cinch without the collar stops it will find it's own place and stay. You may need to customize the ground seat to suit your taste as the seat they send is pretty flat. Good luck on you first saddle but be patient the tree most likely won't arrive when they say it will:) hope this is informative

Do you still have this splitter available?

So I took a small amount on a plate added a little water and used a stir stick to work it to approximately a cake frosting consistency. Seems to work so...

I have some fiebing's antique that has gotten thick over time (years) to the point of being nearly unusable. Since I am cheap and don't want to throw half a quart of antique away I want they thinning it back to a usable consistency and was wondering if anyone else has tried that and to what level of success. I think it is water based or at least water soluble so I would assume plain water should work. Any thoughts?

Where is this machine located?

Big sioux I agree with you. I wasn't apologizing for the price I meant that I am sorry this person didn't understand the situation. It is what it is.

Here are pics of the machine.

Wow. I haven't been on in a while and didn't know that this such a hot topic. For the guy who complained about middle of nowhere Wyoming, sorry that's where the machine is. When I purchased the machine I went to the seller and we loaded it with a tractor. Since it is so heavy I don't want to mess with crating it hauling it to cheyenne and shipping it out of a freight company. I simple don't have the time. I priced it low to account for this. To the guys who messaged me about the machine it us still for sale I have been pretty busy and haven't been checking my messages. Oltoot, yes by rock river

North of laramie about 40 miles

Please review the post. The price is reasonable. If you want something for scrap metal price check the sslvage yard. Your offer is offensive and I will use it for a mailbox stand before letting it go at that price.

Selling my heavy stitcher to make room for a more compact machine. This is not a beginner machine but if you arr familiar with these old hook and awl machine this could be a good machine to pick up at a very fair price. Machine includes original cast iron pedestal stand and electric motor. Comes with all presser feet and misc extra parts. I will post pics as I get time or can text them to you if you are seriously interested. I'm asking 750.00 firm. The price is fixed I will not lower it. I cannot ship it so you will have to pick it up. Located in southern wyoming Jon

I agree with constabulary, the 211 looks like a substantial machine. If you are close to Ft Collins it would be worth a look. Definitely see it sew before purchasing.

Check Craigslist.org wyoming there was a 111w153 posted there awhile back. I use the same model machine for belts and chaps and it woks well for that. I believe the price was under 400 which is a bargain

sorry I do not check this site too often anymore. The splitter is still for sale if you are interested please P.M. me and I will get a notification in my email

If I could just go and buy a new machine it would be a campbell-bosworth. There is no comparison in the stitch quality of a hook and awl machine as opposed to a straight needle machine. Last time I checked the price was nearly the same on a new ferdinand and a new campbell. As far as space goes the campbell is no bigger . The campbell is easier than any other needle and awl to keep in line. Just my opinion and woth every penny paid for it. Jon

I have not had the problems you are having. Here is how I go about applying contact cement.(tanners bond, masters, xl8, s-18 all seem to work about the same. barge sucks)1). make sure the glue is of the right consistancy. If not in the original container it will thicken until it is of no use. if thicher than original but still a liquid it can be thinned with tanners bond thinner(in this case since you are using tanners bond) 2) apply a THIN even coat to both sides that are to be glued. To thick of a coating will cause the bond to slip or "ooze" out of the edges. 3) wait untill it is just tacky to the touch. If you wait too long the bond wont be very strong, if you stick it too soon it will "slip" If it slips a little wait a 30 sec. to a couple min. and rub down again. 4)after the pieces are stuck together they must be rubbed together using a slicker or a bouncer. (a glass doorknob will work as well) The glue works as much off of the pressure as the chemical reaction. I do not mean to be condescending here just outlining what has worked for me, that being said if you are happy with the water based glue then use it the contact cement is not good for you and over time it can cause problems with your sinuses and lungs if not used in a verry well ventilated area. hope this has been of some help

I keep coming back to look at this saddle. I really like the simpleness of it and yet it is still very classy looking. Less is more sometimes! Great job!

tree is sold

Tree is sold.

Very nice work!! I really like the design elements and the execution of the design is superb.

I have always used s-18 which is similar to leather factorys "tanners bond" I prefer it over barge because it tacks up faster and seems to hold better. another benefit is it doesn't crystalize over time like barge does. For saddle skirts I like to use rubber cement because it is easier to replace woolskin later. Some guys like to use dexetrine paste for swell covers but the s-18 seems to work fine for me I just put it on really wet and hurry a bit. I also use the same process as Bruce mentioned for gluing wet leather. What are the plusses of Renia? I would like to find something that works like a good contact cement without the fumes, is there something out there?

Alcohol works but fast orange hand cleaner does pretty well also. It has pumice as well as citrus in it; as an added bonus it is non-flamable

I absolutly agree with steve, nice work is nice work regardless. I like the idea of an open catagory as well let everybody compete. For me the chinks are best but a really cool pair of old time batwings would be fun to make, just hard to unload.

Just something to consider, almost no one in the northwest or the west coast for that matter wears a batwing chap; unless you are talking about cutters but they don't really count as cowboy. The chink is a more common style of chap in summer and the shotgun is more common in winter. Just my perpsective from a cowboy point of view.