JHayek

Yes I do.

First off that is a VERY good first try at sheridan style. A couple of things to try on your next project(some of these have been mentioned but bear repeating). 1. when you are tooling a small project like this it is helpfull to apply packing tape to the back of the leather when you cut it out. This will prevent the stretching that you see on your long edges. 2.when tracing out your pattern use a light touch with your stylus. This will allow you to be able to cut in without having to follow the line exactly. Often when running the swivel knife you have a better flow than with a pencil. 3. make your stamping match up with the thickness of the leather you are working with. in this case you have cut and stamped way too deep. Try and use a little more finnese with your swivel knife and with your stamps. make your beveling taper from beginning to the end of your cuts on your stem work. deep as the cut in at the beginning, tapering to nothing at the end. 4. Dont mash your thumbprints in so deep. They should be a single hit using the heel of the stamp, this will make the impression taper out and not be so choppy in the flower. this will help your decorative cut go in smoother as well. 5. Nothing wrong with your layout. Over time you will improve but you are on the right track. Dont be afraid to try something different to make the style your own. 6. try using olive oil for your finish. The best way to apply it is just like the sheridan book says. Be a little more conservative- thinner leather needs less oil. If the color is not dark enough you can always add another coat. This is one of the hardest areas for a beginner to master so keep practicing. 7. Give this checkbook to your mom.she will love it and will keep it forever no matter how good you get or how many times you beg her to throw it away. it is always nice to have examples of your early work to look back at and see where you have improved. 8. Keep at it, You have the desire to do this and it takes desire and persistance more than talent to be good at this trade. You might as well forget about being rich though. There are way to many cool leather tools to buy. Hope this helps, again nice job but you did ask for the critique.

185.00 TOTAL shipping included!! Tree made by timberline tree co.

185.00 SHIPPING INCLUDED!! Total 185.00

Have used it in the past, it smells and acts like denatured alcohol to me.

Made by bickmore products available at various leather suppliers, use your favorite one. you may have to de-glaze this particular saddle before oiling, after you get as much black stain off as you can. It is important to remember that this is a salvage operation and perfection may not be attainable. How does the customer feel about a black saddle? (just kidding) what do you intend to use for oil and have you considered an "oil darkener" or even adding a little stain to pigment the oil? To much oil can create it's own problems, but then so can dyes as the alchohol dries out the leather. It will be interesting to se your end result on this.

DONT use oxalic on an oiled saddle! It will not work the way you hope. The best product for your situation is bick 1. It looks like hand lotion or liquid soap but I have had good success with it in similar situations. As a plus it cannot hurt the leather in any way. It may take a few applications of bick (1 NOT 4) but should help, then oil and sunbake to achieve the desired darker mellow "brown" color

Bob douglas makes a set of three that are pretty nice. Should be able to get ahold of them through sheridan leather outfitters.

Yes it is still for sale.

olive oil is very good to use for general puposes. It is easier to apply than neatsfoot and far more forgiving. If the color is an issue than you can experiment with the other products available to suit your needs. The purpose of oil is to replace the tannin oils that are removed when you wet the leather to tool/work it. as you may already know, leather can be shaped, carved, stamped ect. before it is oiled but afterwords the oil is used to protect the leather and prevent it from drying out and cracking over time. After it is oiled you can no longer tool it. Neatsfoot is a traditional oil but not a very good oil. It is made from the boiled down hooves and horns ect. of the animal and while it sounds like using the oil that came from the animal would be a good thing, you have to remember that it is no longer alive and the oils than were in it before now contribute to decomposition. Neatsfoot will turn rancid in the sun and it will draw flies and other vermin to your leather. This is not simply an opinion it is fact. I have tested this personally and have found that a packrat will jump over a bridle oiled with olive oil to chew on one oiled with neatsfoot. olive oil will penatrate deeper and more evenly than neatsfoot and requires fewer applications to achieve the same results. These are just statements that reflect my own experience and preferences and as you asked I thought you would benefit from another point of view. I encourage you to do your own research and do not rely solely on opinion or tradition but look for the products that produce the best results for you in your situation. I hope this has been of some help.

Very nice boots! Do you have a website?

thanks JW

I use oxalic as a cleaner prior to oiling. I have heard others say it is a bleach as spinner said but I would think it would ave to be extremely "hot" and even then there are limits of what anything can do. As far as application goes I use a piece of woolskin that i trim to make pad roughly palm sized. I apply a fairly light coat and have not had any unwanted effects on the burnishing of the tooling, again there are limits. Trial and error are effective teachers. A plus to using oxalic is that it seems to open the pores of the leather to allow it to take oil more uniformly if you are using olive oil (if using neatsfoot nothing but more trial and error will give satisfactory results). Hope this has been of some value to you. Jon

thank you for the kind words everyone. it is on a bill bean tree not a felkins I guess I was not that clear before Kieth, I meant that it is no longer new however it was new in the pic I just found the pic and decided to post it. I have rode it a lot since the pic and it no longer looks as nice but then it is not supposed to right? have ropedclose to 2000 calves out of it since new and its holding up very well. As far as the pattern goes I wanted to make it roughout but my wife thought that I should full carve it since I was in more of a hurry to ride than look at I compromised and corner tooled it.

I am in wy but I would be willing to ship. you pay actual shipping cost. P.M. your addres and we will figure out shipping details.

Here is a pic of my saddle its not exactly new but I just found the pics

this splitter is a minor fixer, mostly cosmetic. needs a screw on front replaced and a new handle, however neither of these have ever affected the function of the machine. I have used it regularly since 2000 and has been a good machine blade is sharp and ready to use just cleaning shop right now and some things gotta go. $500.00

good machine in fine working order. has a chipped corner on the rear of machine that does not affect function. (see attached pic) priced right at 550.00 plus actual shipping cost.

timberline ranch cutter. 16" seat, 4" high cantle.13" wide. 6.5 wide gullet 13.5 bottom bar flare. 3.5 high horn w/ 1 7/8 horn cap. 185.00 plus shipping.

modified assoc. 15.5 seat 6.5 gullet, 13 bottom bar flare 3.5 cantle #4 post dally horn 185.00 plus shipping.

Looks good Kieth. Who made the silver rivet caps? Jon never mind, i just read all the words on your post... i know nothing has changed right.?