strapt

Sorry I don't know the answer to your question Paul. But I gotta commend you on what looks to be a VERY cool piece once finished. Nice work so far... Love to see the finished product when you're done with it.

My 2cents on the drawstring pouches... Sewing a channel around the top might help it close rather than running cord through numerous holes. However, in my own experience I've found that having 2 strings laced through a few holes works pretty well. Pull on them from opposite sides. Here's a pic. http://tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:vBc3pf...20pouch300c.jpg

Thanks Luke. I suspected that might be the case.

oops - let me try those links agai. I'm not so computer savvy y'know. gerter saddle strings:

Hello All, Quick question: I have an order for some sock garters for an 18th century re-enactment troup and wondered if the latigo saddle strings from Tandy would bleed dye onto the guys stocking? see the Tandy item here: java script:openWindow('/core/components/zoomtool/scripts/popup.asp?path=/media/images/product/5008-04-L.JPG&width=400&height=400&pageid=2701',%20'imagepopup',%20435,%20459); And what I'd like to make with it here: http://jas-townsend.com/images/large/ga-753.jpg any advice would be a great help. Thanks all! Dave

You could use the eco flow blockout and then use their antiqueing. It's an acrylic thing not the paste antique Fiebeings makes. But it might work for what you're doing.

Hello Musika and welcome to the board. You've certainly come to the right place for your questions, I have found the board to be a wonderful community and quite helpful. All that being said, I am unfortunately ill advised to answer your questions specifically having done virtually no armor pieces myself. I too wondered why Tandy priced those armor bends by the pound. Seems a little strange to me. I thought it might have been a typo at first... I do have one question for you though: Are you planning to actually use this armor in combat (mock or otherwise)- Or are these pieces more for a costume sort of application? Your construction may differ depending on your actual use of the items. Perhaps some of the armor experts on the board here can chime in with tips for you...

Gotta agree with AndyL1 on this one. a stitch groover will help considerably. As for knocking the holes in the piece, I've done this a couple different ways: from using one of those sewing awls, to punching them in with a home-made tool. (a nail glued into a piece of dowel. Flat on the top so I can bang on it with my hammer) Then I had a conversation with my local tandy mgr, who was very helpful btw. She recommended this thing:http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/image.aspx%2fmedia%2fimages%2fproduct%2f3008-00-L.JPG-105x105 you have to buy the set to get the smallest size bit. They don't sell the smallest one individually. I used it on my latest project, a cartridge case for some rev war guys, and it worked like a charm. The holes line up great b/c the chisel has 3 prongs, so you just overlap one of the holes and always get perfect spacing. They were also small enough to make the thread look decent. I don't think I'll do it any other way from here on out. This was a great solution and cut hours off stitching it with my old method. My only gripe was not having an overstitch wheel with proper spacing to make those stitches all lay down nice and uniform. But they still looked pretty good. (maybe someday I'll get the camera and post some pics of the thing) Hope this helps. Best of luck with your project.

I like twin oaks shot gun idea. Sounds pretty cool. (I might have to try that on some of my own projects) But if you're looking for something a little more uniform you might consider using a piece of peg board as a template to help with layout. Heck I guess you cold even rubber cement the leather to the peg board itself, then punch your holes...

As far as slicking a thicker edge, like when 3 layers of veg tan come together. My mentor recommends using the ceramic insulator from an electric fence. You should be able to pick these up anywhere that sells feed or farm tools. Maybe a Rural King or Tractor Supply. Seems to work pretty well for him, I'm still trying to find time to get one of my own...

This is a great question Wyvern, thanks for posting it. I've been wondering the same thing now that most new dyes and antique finishes and such are some form of Acrylic. I have always been under the impression that an acrylic finish was basically like a coat of plastic on top of whatever the item is. And so in my own feeble mind it seems like trying to oil or wax something with a plastic coat on the top of it would be an exercise in futility. So I'm wondering the same thing. After applying an acrylic dye/antique/top coat/ etc etc...how do we make sure the leather is properly cared for? Maybe some of you eco-flo pros out there could clue us in? Pretty please.

For larger cuts I use a metal 60" rule from the lumber yard. The kind of thing drywall guys use. I tried clamping the rule to my bench top with the leather under it but couldn't get enough bite in the middle stretch of the rule to keep it flat on the leather. So now I cut large items on the floor and hold my rule down with some scrap 1x8 and a couple (rarely used) 10lb dumbbells. For smaller cuts, like for a notebook cover. I use a corkbacked metal rule about 18" long. Left over from my days as an artist, this thing is invaluable. If you don't have a corkbacked rule, get one. They're cheap and quite useful. As for quilting scales, I would caution anyone who cuts against a plastic straight edge. Typically (for me anyway) it only takes one or two uses and the straight edge is no longer straight b/c I've trimmed tiny bits of it off with my oh so sharp utility knife. I ruined a few drafting triangles that way as a graphic design student many moons ago.

hey speaking of blood on leather- when I first started I toyed with the idea of calling my little enterprise "pound of flesh leatherworking" b/c I left bloody thumbprints on EVERYTHING I touched. (stupid awl) It became a bit of a joke after awhile. And of course turned me off stitching completely. Thankfully, I've gotten a little better at it after some practice - but I have certainly spread my dna around plenty with those first dozen projects or so. bleh - But in an effort to close on a positive note, here's a cool tip I recently learned about: Aquarellable pencils - my lovely wife works in an art supply store and brought me a couple of these not too long ago. They are like a colored pencil but the marks are water soluble. So I can mark construction lines, if needed, right onto my project. Then wipe the lines off after with a wet sponge. These things have saved my skin (oh, pun fully intended) - a couple times. Stabilo makes the ones I have, a white and a chocolate brown, the can't be more than a dollar or two and have really helped. Just recently I did a belt order and the customer informed me after I emailed him pics of the finished product that he wanted holes for the buckle punched around the entire length of the belts. I grabbed my hole template and my trusty white aquarellabel pencil. Marked my belts, punched the holes, and wiped those lines right off... yay! No ruined belts, none to start over - and a happy customer in the end. Okay, back to work with me.

When I started doing leather work I had a method very similar to what Drac describes. Beveling if it's a thick piece of hide, then wetting and slicking with a wooden slicker given to me from my mentor. However, after some trial and error I am now using the Tandy nylon slicker in my (very inexpensive) drill press. I have to say doing it with the drill press has been a real time saver. I used to slick by hand and it took hours, depending on the belt and the quality of the hide. Now I can knock one out in about a 7 minutes and then touch up by hand if needed. I have been experimenting with burnishing the top surface too - using several different tools in an attempt to find the best method. Do any of you have pointers on burnishing the top?

here's my latest favorite: -leather dye makes great wood stain - don't knock it over onto the bench when dyeing. or - contact cement makes a great dye resist - don't apply too much when joining 2 pieces together. (actually I've solved that last one by using 2 sided tape instead of cement. Much easier to control...and no mess)