276ccm

Ah, now I slowly start to understand hehe Thanks a lot for a very good and clear explanation! :-) I went to the "office" and tried to hold the shaft tight with my hand, but I didn't manage to pop it into place.. but I didn't quite understand the safety clutch before now, as I was looking at both the german and the english manual and the number of the picture is different.. anyway, I think I understand now and will go tomorrow morning to check if the clutch is engaged.. If not I´ll loosen the screws for the clutch and align the clutch plates and tighten as the manual says, and hope it´s all what it takes, but I´m a little bit scared, as I took a new video today and picture, that shows more clear that the timing is really far off as you mentioned.. The picture below shows how far the tip of the hook is the needle.. I guess the hook should be in the middl of the needle when it´s in this position.. Thanks again, I really appreciate it! :-)

Thanks a lot for your reply guys! I really appreciate it! :-) I wasn't even aware what a safety clutch was, or that I had one, but now I do and if I understand correctly I will go this afternoon to see if it´s in place.. In the manual it says: "Hold shaft G and turn the hand wheel till clutch engages" Maybe a silly question, but does it basically means to hold the shaft with my hand and turn the hand wheel and it will "popp" in place? I think my english is fairly good, but some times I´m not so familiar with all the technical terms, so I might as some silly questions to be sure I dont do anything wrong :-) Thanks again for your support! :-)

Thanks a lot for reply! :-) Do you mean this screw? (See picture) and probably another one under the "plate" (Now I can't remember any technical words) :-) Yes I tried with a more thin thread too, but the same problem. I tried with the same thread as I have always been sewing with, a thicker one and a thinner one. I didn't try to change the needle tho, but used the same size as I have been using for these threads, but same behaviour with any thread.. When the thread got stuck, it stopped the motor, so I had to turn it off, so I guess it might got a litte pressure when it happened.. Regards Marius

Hi all! :-) Now I´m a little desperate, as I have two motorcycle shows coming up and I´m trying to work day and night to finish some custom seats.. well, I´ll try to explain: A few weeks ago bought a mint condition (as far as I could see) Adler 267 and I replaced the motor to a good servo motor. It was sewing perfectly until today.. I was trying out two different sizes of thread to decide which one to use, and suddenly something happened and the thread got "stuck" in the bobbin somewhere.. I had to lirk it out and it was a little mess down there, but I think I got all the thread out. As I was threading the machine again, and was ready to sew, it looks like the machine now has a timing problem. It looks like the hook won't catch the thread. I took a "lot" of video and some pictures to try to document whats happening when I try to sew. Please watch the video, and if any of you experts can see something that is obviously wrong.. and if you have some tips of what to do, I would be really happy as I really need to finish some of the seats for the shows. The youtube video of the bobbin/hook from different views: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bwDaEHlIMQ Do you think this is something I can fix my self, or do I need a professional technician? Or do you see if anything is missing or broken? I would be really really really happy if anyone could take the time to help me sort this out! :-) Thanks a lot in advance! :-) Marius

Just to follow up, I ended up with the Ho Hsing G60 motor with he needle position. I found a company in UK (AE Sewing Machines) which had the motor for a very good price. The shipping was super fast and service simply amazing. They replied very quick to all my questions.. I´m super happy with the motor, it seems to be strong and was really easy to set up. The needle position works exactly like I´m used to with my previous machines.. easy to adjust too. I feel I have fill control with the machine now.. So I can strongly recommend the Ho Hsing motor.. Thanks a lot for all replies and to Trox for your expert knowledge! :-) A little shot of my machine with the new motor :-)

Thanks for replies! :-) I got my machine today, and I think it looks good! Now I just have to decide if I´ll go for the JK, ISM or the Ho Hsing G60 motor I´m awaiting prices for. I found a company in Spain and one in France that sells them. I tested the machine today, and it works fine, but as I expected the stick length isn't really large, 6 mm at the maximum, but I´m happy with my machine so far! :-)

With needle position, I mean that the needle always stops in the same position as I started.. and I always starts with the needle down, so in this case it means that the needle always will stop down. I've had this feature on my other machine, and the machine we had at work, and I think it's so much easier to work with. People say that a speed reduced and a needle position is not a good combination, tho.. But I was hoping the servo motor was giving me the option to sew more slow than the old clutch motor that is attached.

Thanks for replies! :-) I'm also a pinstriper.. but mostly paint cars and motorcycles, but does anyone have any experience painting leather with 1-shot pinstriping paint?

Thanks a lot for your info and personal view Uwe! :-) I´ll do some more searches and probably come up with some more questions.. I ended up buying the Adler 267 as it really looked like mint condition from what I could see and test. And Trox gave me some very useful advises to what to look for, so now I have to start the search for the "perfect" motor! :-) Enjoy Hurtigruten, it´s a really beautiful trip, but dont spend all the money in one place, Norway is expensive, but I guess you already experienced that hehe :-)

Hola again! :-) I´m going to look at the Adler machine today.. and I have been thinking of either of these two machines: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/JK-561A-1-220V-750W-1-HP-SERVO-MOTOR-WITH-NEEDLE-POSITION for 130 BP. This one got 1 HP and are 750 Watt or this one: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/SV71-650-WATT-220V-0.87-HP-SERVO-MOTOR-WITH-NEEDLE-POSITION for 168 BP. This one has 0,87 HP and are 650 Watt. Could anyone say anything about what the advantage of buying the more expensive? Does the 0,13 HP less have any big impact on how strong it will be for heavier leather? Both motors has needle position, but would it be any different on how accurate the needle position will be? Anyone got any suggestion for this? Marius :-)

I´m working on some motorcycle seats, and normally I use dye to colour my seats, but I want to try to paint a couple of them with solid colour, not dye.. What would be the best leather paint, acrylic or anything else.. the paint that will stick best to the surface, as it will be on tooled motorcycle seats, and I want the motive to stick as good as possible. I´ve heard about Angelus and Fiebing, and they both have acrylics.. and Tandy, but I was not too happy about the Tandy´s I tried. Is there any other ones you would suggest, or any other type of paint? Anything helps to find the best paint for motorcycle seats. Marius

Thanks a lot for reply! I have also talked with Trox :-) The Adler looks like in mint condition, and I will test it tomorrow.. and the Fomax is forgotten. I would prefer a cylinder arm machine, but I think this might be a good start! :-) Thanks again! :-)

Yes this is a Panhead.. I was hoping to find the panhead, knucklehead, flathead and showel for a friend :-)

Does anyone know where to find these Harley engine leather stamps, or do you think it's a custom made stamp? Marius

Finally started on a few new seats.. I just ordered six seat pans and will make six different seats to show off at Oslo Motor Show in Octobre and Motorama Barcelona in November :-) And after some more tooling, coloring and dying.. :-)

Ops i wrote 276 in the subject, of course I ment 267 :-) Fixed it for you.

I´m in Spain and I´m maybe about to buy a Adler 267 class GK 373 Would that be a good machine to use both for relatively light leather work and some normal upholstery work? When I say light leather work, I think I normally would sew maximum two layers of 4 mm veg tanned leather.. I guess it depends of the engine too, but is it a good machine to use for leather? As far as I can see for this machine, it has a clutch engine without needle position, and I think I want to replace the engine to a servo engine, with needle position, so the most important question: does anyone know anywhere in Europe they sell powerful engines with needle position, that would fit a Adler 267? And is it easy to replace the ending and attache the needle position? As for the second question, I´m also offered a Fomax SW 1335 (which looks like a copy of Pfaff 335) as for the things I´m going to sew, I prefer the cylinder arm machine, but how would you think the Fomax (Pfaff 335) is compared to the Adler 267? Anyone got any thoughts of this? Posting some pictures of the Adler and one of the Fomax I´m offered: Adler: Fomax Thanks in advance! :-)