RunningRoan

I have some fatigue in my right hand/wrist from using my little rawhide mallet too much. I have to strike most of my tools 2+ times with it to get the job done. I think it's time I invest in something heavier. I have a Snap-On deadblow hammer that I use for striking my plastic maker's stamp. The head of the deadblow hammer isn't metal, so I've tried it on my metal tools and I don't really like it for that task. I seem to get too much bounce with it on metal. I use my little rawhide mallet for striking punches (hole punches and end punches), striking spot setters...those things require the most/hardest swings. I also use it for striking my stamping tools, and have to strike hard several times if I'm trying to get a deep impression (such as with my barbwire stamps). Hard to keep the depth consistent along the whole design when I have to stike the tool that many times for each impression. So tell me your favorite heavier hammers, mallets and mauls and what weights they are.

Thank you for posting this! I just got my first order from Weaver. I spent over $600 and got a medium sized box of hardware and two rolls of hides (a total of four hides, two hides rolled and wrapped up together). So I got three parcels all together. Total shipping for the order was $86 and some cents. I didn't ask about shipping cost when I placed my order and I've never had leather shipped to me like this before (except for soft leathers that can be folded up in a box). I expected shipping to be high, but I wasn't quite expecting $86. I wanted to "try out" this leather, so I only got a few hides. But I like it and want to order a larger volume. I'm going to give Weaver another chance and see if the shipping charges are any more economical if I order 10+ hides. After reading this post, I will definitely ask them for a shipping quote first!

Anyone know where to find different colors of angora besides white and black? I've seen finished products using beautiful brown angora and I'd like to try some of that. I've also seen multi-colored angora like this: Was this dyed or do these colors occur naturally? Any tips on dying angora?

I switched from water-based dyes to Fiebings too and have been very happy. I seem to be getting more even results from the oil dye as opposed to the leather dye. I haven't figured out why yet.

Very nice! I've been looking for turquoise conchos and haven't found anything besides faux turquoise. You could always have a silversmith inset chunks of stone into conchos for you, but that is way too cost prohibitive for me. I agree with broncobuster, experiment with gluing some turquoise pieces to conchos. You can get turquoise cut stones from Swarovski, but they don't have the veins in them, so they don't look real to me. I'm looking at trying to do something with tiny turquoise chips used by jewelry makers. Haven't tried it yet, but it's on my "to do" list which is getting pretty long....

Hooligan, when I make short headstalls for gag bits, I try to do most of my shortening in the cheeks. I mostly use larger, fancier buckles on the headstalls I make and if I shorten the crown too much, the buckles will end up in the horse's eyes. There are quite a few people who prefer browband headstalls for their hacks, gags or long purchase bits. Some of those types of bits aren't safe to use on a single ear and really need the stability of a browband.

I make strap goods (mostly tack) and I'm currently using Hermann Oak tooling sides, which I dye, antique, carve and/or stamp as needed for each project. However, my finished products end up feeling "dry" to me. They lack the softness they need to wrap comfortably around a horse. I've used Eco-Flo products and Fiebings leather dye...oiling with neatsfoot before and after dying. I've tried Leather Sheen, Eco-Flo Super Sheen and Resolene as a finish. Even still, when I compare my stuff to brand new finished products made by others, mine just doesn't have that nice buttery feel. I've gotten some Fiebings Oil Dye to try and see if that makes a difference. Got some Bee Natural RTC that I'm going to try and thinking about giving Bag Kote a whirl. Any other product suggestions? I'm also wondering if it's the leather I'm using. I'd like to try something that doesn't start as dry as the tooling sides...maybe bridle leather? Is that still going to carve and take dye all right?

Ah ha! This sounds better than my Super Glue method! Snip the threads close, then burn them? Or hold the threads and use the burner to cut them? Any suggestions for a good thread burner? I did a quick Google search and found quite a few jewelery supply places that had some neat looking ones. Missed you at Denver WESA this year...

I've been playing around with Eco-Flo dyes and antiques too. I have found that oiling before I dye gets more even results. I case/carve, then let the project sit until the top layer is dry, but there is still some moisture in the core of the leather. Then I put on a coat of oil. I have been using mostly neatsfoot oil, but have done a few projects with EVOO and liked the results. The neatsfoot tends to darken a little, but the EVOO doesn't so much. Once the oil has soaked in (the moisture in the core helps suck in the oil) and the top layer is clean, I apply the dye as quickly and evenly as possible (still working on my technique). I'm still at odds with the finish, especially for the Eco-Flo antiques. I was using Leather Sheen, but that was a disaster with the water-based Eco-Flo. I went to acrylic Resolene and had a bit of a color-removal problem on the Eco-Flo antique. It was pulling/dissolving the antique off of the non-impression areas of my projects. I found that if I work in smaller sections when applying the antique and rub it off completely, I get better results with the Resolene. I was kinda sorta satisfied. I was at the WESA trade show in Denver last weekend and visited the Weaver Supply booth...was chatting with the fellas there and told them my woes...they had nothing but good things to say about RTC. Said it's the best and most durable weather proof finish they've found. That's what they use exclusively in their shop on all their finished goods. They gave me a little bottle to try. I'm excited...gonna start getting a piece of scrap ready tonight to see what the RTC does. I have not tried Fiebings products, but I'm planning to get some on my next supply run. Just curious to try them out. I like the color selection of the Eco-Flo stuff, but if I can't get it right, I need to go to something else.

I'd like to hear everyone's methods on finishing your machine stitching. What holds securely, but still looks nice? I'm always looking for a better way...I am currently pulling the loose threads to the backside of the project, snipping them close and using a dab of Super Glue. The glue leaves a hard little knob that I don't really like (try to hide it where it won't rub or be seen), but seems to hold pretty good. I saw the trick posted earlier that pulls one of the threads into the center of the leather and hides it...then do I use a bit of glue to secure it? Any suggestions?

Unfortunately some of us (myself included) don't have spouses who can work in town!

Thanks for the reply! That makes me feel better. I think I'll practice on my own pad first...I guess the worst thing that could happen is having to rip out the stitching.

Ray, A couple years ago, Weaver had free DVDs they sent out that demo'd the machinery they offered. The Heritage foot press was one of them. It showed the press being used with different dies setting different things. Very informative! I'd give Weaver a call and see if they can send you one of those DVDs.

My problems seem to be the same as everyone else...keeping up with the day to day. Leatherwork is a part time gig for me and I have a certain amount of time set aside to devote to it. Of course that time gets eaten up by cleaning, ordering supplies, customer service, bookkeeping, etc. Not as much time left for actual leatherwork as I'd like. I have ideas for new products, but the orders keep me too busy to work on new stuff, things for stock...or anything for myself! I have a day job also on top of my business enterprises, but my goal is to move into my biz full time. A scary thing to do in an economy such as this, but there comes a point where you just can't juggle three jobs anymore. I've done it for the past several years by working when I should be sleeping. I'm blessed to have a day job and wonder if I'd be able to find another one if things don't work out, but I'm getting tired.

I'm using paint (Eco-Flo) to color simple stamped lettering that I really want to "pop" but the paint sits on top of the leather and covers it up. For projects with large areas that need to be colored, I got some dyes. Have just practiced on scraps with it so far, but I like the look. You can still see the natural beauty of the leather through the dye. Pieces with all-over color done with paint sometimes don't much resemble leather anymore...it's just one solid sheet of paint. The dyes just give a richer appearance for large areas of color in my opinion.

I've been using Eco-Flo dyes and was having the same streaking problem. I was dying first, then oiling. One time I wasn't paying attention and oiled first. I let the piece sit for a day and dyed it once the surface was no longer oily. Worked better. I have heard a lot of good things about spirit dyes though and want to try them. Oiling first of course! Where do I get spirit dyes?