jerryrwm

Don't sell yourself short. You can do it if you put you mind to it. The pattern for 8 plait is u2 - o2. The pattern for 12 plait is o2 - u2 - o2. The pattern for 16 plait is u2 - o2 - u2 - o2 The pattern for 20 plait is o2 - u2 - o2 - u2 - o2 The pattern for 24 plait is u2 - o2 - u2 - o2 - u2 - o2 These will give you the herringbone pattern. If you use the whipmaker's pattern it would be as follows: 8 Plait is u2 - o2 12 plait is u3 - o3 16 plait is u4 - o4 20 plait is u5 - o5 (Not usually used in whipmaking. It has been used, but not common) 24 plait is u6 - o6 Just remember to keep the strings in order, and work one side then the other. You have to concentrate on one string at a time. The rest don't come into play until it is their time to be worked. Give it a try. And as Peter Jack told me once. "Every so often you need to turn it over and see what's going on in the back." Jerry

You could build up the foundation with several layers of your 'roo. Using the cement, glue one on top of the other. You can make the top pieces progressively narrower and end up with an ovoid shape rather than a straight collar.

Get the best splitter you can afford... If it is an inexpensive one then that's what you get. But the thing to remember is to keep that thing clean and SHARP! A sharp - (and I mean razor sharp, hair shaving sharp) blade on an inexpensive splitter will bring you more joy than a half-assed sharp blade on an expensive splitter. learn how to sharpen the blade with a good stone, and then use a buffing wheel and polishing compound to get that super SHARP edge you need. If you don't know how to sharpen a blade from a splitter, maybe find a machinist or tool maker. They can usually get you on the right track. Good Luck

You might want to try starting the braiding like this. This is from Ron Edwards' book "How To Make Whips" Make sure you get it tight right from the git go or it will slip on you. This shows 12 plait, but it can be done with 8 or 16 etc. Works best with multiples of 4 .

Yep...those lacing needles are handy as a pocket on a shirt. And a good fid. Especially when the knots get tight, those needles get a little weak going under the laces. Just open up the path with the fid and slide it through.

I make my own using David Morgan's recipe with a little modification. Lard, ivory soap, water, and I add beeswax and a couple drops of eucalyptus oil. Cook it up, and use the blender to whip it up. Doesn't color the 'roo much and is really good for your hands.

Check with Chas. Hardtke in El paso, Tx for 'roo. Drum stuffed works well. To cut the lace, I use a Williams lace cutter made by Deane Williams in Australia. Check the threads on the list for lace cutters. The Aussie strander will cut much lace fast and true - they just don't make a left handed model. Another problem with spooled lace is the joins - where they splice the lace together. They seem to get at least one and sometimes more in every spool. They are hard to spot just looking at the lace, but you can feel it with your fingers, and if you need to run the lace through a splitter, the blade will find the join every time!

Do you have the resources to cut your own lace? You can get about 130 - 150 yds out of a good hide. 'roo is selling for around $11.50/sq ft so for about $65.00 you can get nearly 50% more for the same money. Just a thought.

Thanks rdb... Exactly what I was looking for and at a great price too. 'Preciate the help.

Does anyone have a source for 1/2" welded steel rings? I can find 5/8" all day long, but nary a local supplier for the smaller ones.

I bought one of Dean's stranders a number of years back - when they were $50.00 but I wouldn't take 3 times that much for it. And the best thing about it - he made them in right or left hand models. It is just the ticket for cutting overlay sets for whips. Cut a length at one width for all the strands, and then change the width for proper taper. And you can start and stop anywhere as stated above. Uses #11 scalpel blades and cuts like a dream. I actually gave my Aussie strander away after I got this one.

A couple good resource books would be "Braiding Fine Leather" by David Morgan - (has an excellent recipe for making your own braiding soap- uses lard, glycerine soap, etc.) and get "Art of Braiding" by Gail Hought. Excellent tutorial on measurements etc for bosals. How big was the 'roo hide? Even a 5 or 6 sq ft hide is enough to make a 5' or 6' bullwhip or several bosals. Remember you are making small strings so after you get the hide trimmed to the non-stretchy leather you can cut some long strings.

I like to tie a 4 bight turk's head with flesh side out onto the lanyards. Tie it tight enough that it has some resistance when sliding it but not too loose. Then tie a 6 bight pineapple knot over the foundation turk's head. Tie it tight enough that it won't come undone. It will also help to grab the lanyards but still slide. Also, you need to make sure the lanyards have been rolled smooth. Hope that helps Jerry