torrbuidhe

I use College sewing as well, very good service. I like the LL point myself, although I got some D points for utility work because it's a more durable style.

This is the basic thread size comparison - US > UK 138 = 20 207 = 13/12 277 = 10 346 = 8 Thread size > needle size - 207 top 138 bottom > 160/23 207 top & bottom > 180/24 277 top 207 bottom > 200/25 346 top 277 bottom > 230/26 Neil

The thread size is well within the capabilities of your machine. I sounds to me as if the needle might be hitting the bobbin case. Try taking off the bed slide plate and needle plate, this should give you a better view of what's happening. 31-15s dont's get out of timing as such because the shuttle drive shaft is pinned at both ends. It is possible for the needle bar crank to shift on the top shaft (at the right hand end, it drives the needlebar up and down) which is effectively a timing issue. You should also check the feed drive eccentric, behind the cover on the back of the arm, this times the feed dog to the needle/thread take up. Also if the needlebar has moved in the needlebar clamp the needle might be set too low which would make the needle hit the bobbin case. hope this is some help

Leatherrookie, there are several clones of the 45K25 available in North America. The feet for these might fit your machine. Try Ferdco, Neels Saddlery or Raphael Sewing, there's a foot on the Raphael Sewing website for $15. Patrick, you could try College sewing machine parts for needles. They're listed on the website and you can buy online. The various point styles are listed under 214x2 and 328. It's a very good shop, and they've always answered my emails quickly. http://www.college-sewing.co.uk/acatalog/S...al_Needles.html Neil

Here's a picture - http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/images/SingerV/45k93.JPG Drop feed with reverse, a roller presser is a very useful thing to have with this sort of machine. Also take a look at the photos about a third of the way down this page - http://www.thehcc.org/discus/messages/4/1103.html?1237320186 The 45K56 is the cylinder bed version of the 45K58. The 45K89 has a cylinder bed, vibrating presser and reverse. Spares are hard to come by for 45Ks, unfortunately. You can date Singer machines by their serial numbers here - http://www.singerco.com/support/serial_numbers.html Neil

I wonder about the prices of these things. I like old machines and I only sew as a hobby so I want one as well... but I've seen them listed in the US for over $3000. What do they go for in the UK Steve? As far as I know they don't make the needles for them any more so you have to adjust the machine to use 794 needles. Then it'll only sew about 15 mm or thereabouts. That plus wear and lack of parts - why would anyone spend that sort of money? I would get a Toro or suchlike if I had that much to spend. Is the 97 in Australia listed the one that's listed on an Ebay shop?

That sound like a good option , Karl. There's plenty of rusty iron about here (it's a crofting area ) Is it easy to build up to the colour you want with vinegaroon?. I don't want to end up with black leather. Neil.

The belt I made for my sister turned out pretty well her boyfriend asked me for a belt in a gunmetal colour - that is blued steel. I think this calls for mixing dyes, I'll be using Fiebings spirit dyes. I thought start with a thinned black and build up to dark grey, then navy over the dark grey. I'm new to this, so I'm looking for any ideas from more people with more experience.

NO, NO, NO. Sorry for shouting but any mention of "industrial strength" sewing machines does that to me. The term industrial strength is the mark of a liar, a scam merchant, someone who's out to decieve the unwary by charging well over the odds for old domestic machines. It's a meaningless term anyway, genuine industrial sewing machines vary from lightweight machines for sewing dress shirts to extra heavy duty ones for sewing an inch of leather or heavy webbing. I don't know about prices in the US but in the UK Singer 45K's go for between £ 150 and £ 600 depending where you get them from. The 45K is not as good as a modern stitcher, but is capable of sewing heavy leather with heavy thread. If you want portable you'd get a Sailrite or suchlike for that much money My general rule is if anyone has to try as hard to sell something as they are with that 306w either they're not to be trusted. How about the disclaimer - "industrial strength means it's not industrial strength but it is industrial strength"

Here's a picture of a 29k58 table - http://www.needlebar.org/cm/displayimage.p...m=45&pos=16

Junker and Ruh on the Crispin Colloquy - http://www.thehcc.org/discus/messages/4/1103.html?1229645750

I think you would need an industrial treadle. The 107w is a short machine so it would fit in a domestic treadle, but the drive belts are different sizes. Domestic machines take a 3/16" belt while industrial take a 5/16". I don't know if that would work together, though it could be interesting to see if it did.

Here's another thumbs up for the old iron

There are manuals here, different models but probably good enough if can't find the specific manual - http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/T.../2672/index.htm http://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/ I saw new wooden knobs listed here, by part number - http://www.college-sewing.co.uk/

Looking here - http://www.singerco.com/support/serial_noletter.html - that serial number dates to 1897. If you're restoring and old machine you should look at http://www.needlebar.org/

Hi Dave, is this the machine you got; ebay #290286144411 in East Lothian? I did keep an eye on that one, I might even have bid on it if it wasn't so far away If you can slow it right down with a speed reducer that should make it easier to get an even stitch length. The machine on ebay has one of those old fashioned clutches built into the balance wheel, I don't how that might affect things. Presumably a darning machine with no feed dogs and a hopping foot should hardly make any marks on the leather you sew. Neil

It's not my photo, I just copied it off the web so I don't want to post it. If you PM me with your email address I'll send it to you though.

I have a photo of a Pearson 6 I found on the web. It has a plain flywheel like yours Badger. The flywheel is painted black, with nickel plate on the rim. As far as the handle goes, I have a Bradbury A1 where the handle has been replaced with the end of an old broom handle

It's been very interesting looking at all your machines in the needlebar gallery, but it's good to see what you actually make with them.

What needle system does the Pearson 6 use? Is it one that's easy to get or something more obscure?

I recognise a few of those machines from the Needlebar gallery

I would like to get my hands on a 7 class or a 97-10, though I wouldn't have much justification for owning one 97s must be scarce, there's a list of production numbers of Singer industrial on the Needlebar site - http://needlebar.org/main/industrial/index.html There's also a size comparison of a 7-25 and a 45k on the same site - http://www.needlebar.org/cm/displayimage.p...=243&pos=20 Would the Pearson 6 be comparable to these machines?

Glad to help, hope you get the machine going There's a lot of information on the Needlebar site.

That's the early version of the 29 when they were known as the UFA (Universal Feed Arm). You can find out more information here http://www.needlebar.org/cm/thumbnails.php?album=45 Anybody can view the picture gallery, but you'll have to sign up to the forum to read the topic about that machine.

Thanks $$hobby, (good name ££hobby ) That's a good point, it would be cheaper to get two lighter machines than two heavier ones. The 45k is the heavier machine so I'll keep that in mind when I'm looking.