MsDragonfly

Yep thats the one I got and I figured it out. Works awesome with the OTB jiffy rivets. Perfect strong hold every time with a flawless appearance. Best machine i got so far. heck on hand setting them anymore. I'll never go back. Thanks***Lisa

Thanks everyone. the tutorial post was very interesting and helpful. Where does one purchase a good sharp awl of two sizes?***Lisa

when making a holster to hold a square shape object, do I need to groove it with a v-gouge where I want my leather to bend ( shape out to be a 90 degree angle )???? Or should I just wet it and bend it?***Lisa

Art, what way should I be stitching and/or making my stitch holes then? Its important to me that I do things right and that my products/holsters are strong and durable.***Lisa

Art, Thanks. I have been playing around with the tubular rivets and don't like the looks of them...the heads are flat and boring and the back side that star splits look crappy too, though they are strong not what I like. Not sure what a burr rivet is? I have the jiffy rivets from Ohio Travel Bag and was told the hand press from tandy can help set them so I bought the hand press tool, from tandy, to help set them better. Hammering them was giving me fit after fit....they would let loose, easily pull loose and/or I'd smash them all kinds of weird...LOL. Anyways, now i need help setting up this hand press. But back to main topic here, on my sheaths and stuff...should I stop my stitching say about 7/16" from the top of sheath and place the 3/8" head sized rivets in there or sew to top and rivet along side of stitching? Hope I make sense. Sometimes I confuse myself...LOL!****Lisa

I went and bought a wire brush with pretty stiff bristles at Walmart to try and it seems to work well for roughing up my leather before gluing it with the tanner bond cement. Thought I'd share. Anyone else use something like this?***Lisa

I like to hand sew my holsters and don't use the stitching awl...just 2 needles and waxed thread. -Can I just pre-drill my stitch holes with my dremel tool? -Does it matter if the drill bit size matches the thread or not...(can stitching holes actually be too big or too small?)? -How do I determine or choose the correct distance from stitch hole to stitch hole? Some use 3/16 of an inch and some do 1/4", whats the deal with distance? Thanks for all the help, I'm just tired of guessing and assuming things...time to learn what is right and wrong.***Lisa

when making a holster to hold a square shape object, do I need to cut v-notch grooves where I want my leather to bend ( shape out to be a 90 degree angle )???? will grooving it help or just wet it and bend it?***Lisa

Rivets...where do i use them and why? Are they actually necessary?***Lisa

Guys, I just got the red hand press and it's dyes for the jiffy rivets from tandy to help with setting my rivets more consistently. One problem....now instructions!! I don't know what dye goes on the top and what one on the bottom, nor do I know how to adjust the setting depth of the handle and ....well you get the picture. Anyone use this machine and can you help me figure out the proper set-up of it. Maybe a picture tutorial? Thanks in advance for the help.***Lisa

Well I decided to give Weaver's another try, however, I requested a different sales rep. Here name was Tonya. Now, she knew her stuff and was extremely helpful. ***Lisa

Thanks for the info. I had contacted them and they are forwarding me a catalog. I had recontacted Weaver's and requested a different sales rep. Here name was Tonya. Now, she knew her stuff. She was extremely helpful. ***Lisa

Wyvern, I do use Ohio Travel Bag and they are great to work with and know their stuff. However, they do not have some sizes or items that I need. Thanks, ***Lisa

Guys, Could someone recommend a good supplier for getting brass & antique brass D-rings and clips as well as chicago screws? I don't want to use Weaver leather as everytime I call there the girl can't read a ruler and her customer service is terrible, just a pain in the butt to call there. We are having trouble finding a supplier who carries antique brass 1/2" and smaller D-rings and clips for them. I know someone makes them but can't find them. Tandy, weaver and ohio travel bag don't have want I need and all there D-rings are too big and toooo shiny. Any is much needed and immediately as i got some projects to get out soon. Thanks a bunch in advance.***Lisa

Guys, Could someone recommend a good supplier for getting brass & antique brass D-rings and clips as well as chicago screws? I don't want to use Weaver leather as everytime I call there the girl can't read a ruler and her customer service is terrible, just a pain in the butt to call there. We are having trouble finding a supplier who carries antique brass 1/2" and smaller D-rings and clips for them. I know someone makes them but can't find them. Tandy, weaver and ohio travel bag don't have want I need and all there D-rings are too big and toooo shiny. Any is much needed and immediately as i got some projects to get out soon. Thanks a bunch in advance.***Lisa

Hey thanks guys!!!!! I will try both. I actually just spoke with a friend out west who swears by the Montana Pitch Blend products....he has used it for years on all his outdoor products. He tells me that it is far superior to any leather finish and treatment products out there and very user friendly. Thanks again you guys.***Lisa

Any good quality acrylic paints work well on leather as acrylics are flexible and durable. You can also seal or finish over the painted areas by using Krylon crystal clear gloss or satin. spray it in a cap and brush on over the painted area using an artist brush or you can spray it on...works well. I also like the acrylics because you can thin them down to desired shades and build upon them as desired. Hope this helps.***Lisa

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! THANKS TO "THE MAJOR" I took "The Majors" advice and mixed the Edge Kote with some Tanners Bond Cement. I mixed 2-3 parts Tanners Bond Cement to about 7 parts of the Edge Kote and it worked GREAT! It definately fixed the problem that I was having with the Edge Kote bleeding or rubbing off. I then tried using the Tanners Bond Cement as a top coat after the Edge Kote was applied and it worked just as well. Thanks to all for your help. ***Lisa

Do I add the snow seal and other stuff mentioned after the finishes are applied or just use it as a finish?***Lisa

Major, I have the leather craft cement tanner's bond in white.... is this the stuff you mean?? If so what percentage do I mix this stuff with the edge kote?? Like 50/50 or what?***Lisa

What finshes and application process of them are best to apply to holster subject to being in the rain and keep the holster's finish looking nice when they dry out with out the water blemishes and blistered look?? I have tried: All applied by hand/whiped on. leather balm & atom wax-looks great but when wet leaves water marks or blisters. leather balm & atom wax then 2 coates of tuff kote- seems work good so far but i worry if the tuff kote will hold over the leather balm & atom wax. Plain 2 coats of tuff kote-seems good too. Resolene which stinks as it inconsistant and leaves streaks or crack some times. super and satin shenes-not sure if its what I need either for the water testing of rain. What are you folks who make products subject to weather, wetness using and how do you apply it??Thanks***LisA p.s. SORRY FOR ALL THE QUESTIONS BUT i AM GETTING FRUSTRATED.

Well, to find out if your correct I applied the edge kote to a ruffed up piece of leather that has not been burnished and the same result...rubb off when wet. Then I tried the fiebings edge dye and it also rubbs off on white shirt when wet. Is this stuff not water resistant/proof. Maybe I shouldn't use it for my outdoor products that are subject to being in the rain and what not????? I even applied the tuff kote finish over the edge kote and it doesn't help a whole lot either. I need some help as i like the dressy look the black edge kote gives my holsters***Lisa

Guys, I am having trouble with my edge kote coming off of my holsters. This is what I do in steps so you can tell me if i am doing something wrong... First I bevel, then burnish with Gum trag, finish my holster with leahter balm & atom wax then top coat it with Weaver's tuff kote and final is apply the edge kote. To test my holster under water for any bleeds I found when my edges get wet the EDGE KOTE rubbs off on cloth such as my shirt. I don't want the edge kote to bleed or rubb off on my clients cloths. Whats my problem here? Wondering if I should let the edge kote dry longer before testing this or is this stuff just crap? Should I apply the edge coat first and then finish with the tuff kote maybe. I can't believe this stuff once wet rubbs off like it does. I want a nice dark and shiny black edge on my holsters, any suggestions or insight???? THANKS***Lisa

If it is in the molding process, I wonder if you should make your pattern smaller to compensate for the stretch. We have done away with staining our leather. We purchase the skirting leather from Wickett and Craig already dyed. I am wondering if maybe a firmer leather would help because when we were staining/dyeing our leather (we used the same skirting leather) it seemed to harden the leather and it was a littler harder to mold. I didn't notice a stretch in the leather when we were staining/dyeing. But we don't won't to go back to that hassle. Is there maybe a product that can be applied to the leather before molding it that would harden the leather? ***Lisa

Thanks for the response Casey; however, the holsters are not tooled, but we are wet molding after they are sewed. Can the stretch happen during that process also? ***Lisa