DaltonMasterson

I have a Landis 12F for sale. I got it a few years back, and turned it on once when I got it, but have not used it since. It has been in my garage for at least 5 years, and I need to make some room, so it needs to go. It is pretty dirty, with a build up of liquid wax on it, but I have started to wipe some of that off. It does turn freely, but the cord has been cut sometime in the past so I have not been able to plug it in to test. It was from a local shoe shop that closed quite a few years back, and was stored in the widow's shed and was part of a deal for another machine I had bought. Sometime in the past it has been painted red. The leather belt is there, but it probably needs a new one, or at least restapled and conditioned. It is located in Lexington, NE, and must be picked up. It is very heavy and large, so no shipping. I would like $600, but feel free to make me an offer. (or trades for a Springfield Trapdoor or Krag) I can email pics on request. Thanks, DM

Are any of you using the leather stand-off pieces like Milt Sparks? It seems all of you are just attaching the strap directly to the holster, without that piece. Any advantage or disadvantage? DM

I will repair them as long as they are not abused/altered. I hate getting holsters back that someone has altered from my original design. Those I usually don't work on, but offer to sell them another one. When they are bought, I tell them what I use on them as far as finishes, and give them a biz. card, telling them that if they have a problem or need help, to give a call. I have only offered money back on one holster, and the customer did not take it. I offer to remake holsters if it is a design issue, ie. too tight/loose, bad design (it happens), etc. I have only had 1 holster come back needing restitched, and that was an old one that I was still learning to sew on. Easy fix and no charge. The others are usually a one off design issue, and I look at those as perfecting my prototype. DM

I have the green. Its very nice looking too. Havent used any yet though. Yours looks great!!! What weight of leather are you using under it?

I am going to take this machine to the Sheridan show to avoid shipping. I am asking $400, but am negotiable. If you are interested in it, let me know via email... The notifications for new posts doesnt ever get to me.... mercuryman68850@yahoo(dot)com. Thanks, DM

Sorry JimBob. I didnt get the notification for the post for some reason. This one would be perfect for what you want regarding the hand wheel only. I will send you a pm. DM

If anyone is interested, I will have it in Sheridan. Would like $400, but make me an offer. Looking to buy some tools while there.

I would love to see it, but the pics dont come up....

I have an Adler 30-15 I am thinking about selling. Not sure on a price yet, but it is a nice older green unit that was being used when I got it. I played with it enough to realize it wont work for my holsters and its been sitting in the corner for the last 4 years. It does not have a motor, or treadle, but does have the Adler treadle stand, just no treadle pedal. The frame was modified sometime in its life for an electric motor. I thought about taking it to Sheridan in May and seeing if I could sell it there, but have been fishing for a good price on some other forum posts with no results. I am located in Nebraska.

I have an old green Adler 30-15 shoe patch machine with the stand. It has no motor or treadle parts. It is a working machine, but doesn't do what I do, ie. holsters. What would be a decent price to put on this if I took it up to Sheridan in May?

I have a pattern for an old Hopkins 38 I had and still have a .32 Hopkins. Send him my way as well. mercuryman68850@yahoo.com

I did find out a little bit about this company. It is part of what would become the Dutton Lainson Company in Hastings, NE. I actually order stuff from them through my real job.

I have an old green Adler 30-15 shoe patch machine with the stand. It has no motor or treadle parts. It is a working machine, but doesn't do what I do, ie. holsters. What would be a decent price to put on this if I took it up to Sheridan in May?

Perfect. I have K and J frames, so an N frame is just the ticket then. With this also cover Ruger Redhawks, and the Colt snake guns?

I have a customer that wants a holster made for a Taurus Tracker model 44, 4" barrel. I do not have access to his firearm for this, and have the order depending on finding a blue gun or alternative. What other model of blue gun would work for this? This will be a basic western style loop holster. Is there another model that is comparable enough for this? I have lots Single Actions, but no big double actions. I also have a K frame Victory model S&W at home. Nothing I own is as big as the Taurus. I want a dummy gun that will fulfill more than just this one need, as far as building a generic loop holster to fit a big double action. Thanks, DM

Well, its nothing I need for sure, as I just got a Cobra this last spring, and it does the work I need it to do. True advice on the obscure machines. There is a reason they are obscure. Thanks!

Thanks Wiz. I havent seen it, but if I do, I will take some pics. He says he is going to post it on Ebay sometime, but not sure if he will or not. Thanks, DM

BTT. Lots of lookies, no talkies....

I had a local guy come into my office yesterday and told me he had a Chandler 500 for sale. I did a little looking online, but sure dont see a Chandler 500 anywhere. He said it is an upholstery machine. Is this right? Thanks, DM

Thanks for the help Art. I have used the 180 since May when I got the machine. It usually worked, with the occasional hiccup. I switched to the 200 today, and sewed a very complicated long run with not a hiccup. Not sure why I thought 180 was the way to go.... Holes look fine too.

Ah. I will give that a shot. It doesnt leave too big a hole does it?

Ok. I have a Cobra 4, and have had the occasional issue, but nothing terrible. Tonight, I am just frustrated. I am using 207 on the bobbin, and 277 up top, with a 160 needle. I have never tried the 160 before, so it is an experiment and may be my issue. I was using a 180 before, and had the occasional issue. Anyway, I keep breaking a strand of the top thread after about 6 stitches or so. It will fray off, and then of course travel up to the needle eye, and bind everything up. I did a run by hand turning the wheel, and when I felt it happening I looked in on the bobbin. It seems the shuttle hook has split the thread, with the about to be broken thread coming around to the front/left side of the shuttle hook, while the other main strand is back behind where it is supposed to be. I assume I have a timing issue? What do you think? Steve and Co? If no response here, I will wait until Mon. or Tues to call, but would prefer to be able to use tomorrow to get this project done. Thanks, DM

Thanks for the info! I will do some local looking then give a few calls if needed. Thanks again, DM

Anyone know where to get these little plastic buttons that fit into the backside of a line 24 snap? Thanks, DM

I am in need of the Ruger LCR if its still available. Sending a pm. Thanks, DM