carguy4471

Yes, true. It's an easy adaptation, which for new folks like myself is very advantageous.

The slot cut for the little "wing" does complicate the build slightly, but if I can pull one off, I'd recon anyone could.

screw: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1489684848/#91099a220/=16sjhzs t-nut: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1489684848/#90973a400/=16sjhyt Then add line 24 snaps. You will not need the snap studs (the part that secures the socket), as this is replaced by the t-nut and screw. Many folks prefer pull the dot snaps, from dotfasteners.com found here: http://www.dotfasteners.com/products/?wfc_applications=687&wfc_product_brand=897 Again, with dot fasteners, you will not need the post/eyelets. You only need studs, sockets and and caps. If you are buying plain line 24 snaps from somewhere, they typically come with all the parts together. Don't forget the proper tools to seat your snaps!! I just made this one just a couple days ago, it was my first IWB holster:

Thank you for that. Thus far in my very short time working with leather I've only tried two methods, and I'm eager to give this one a shot.

Please disclose for fans of your edges your preferred burnishing method. Those edges look great!!!

I do like those Sam A. vids. That guy needs a radio show!! I may have to dig for some other bag options, see if there is a way to eek the cost down a bit. I'm sort of a budget nazi that way.

I would suspect so, there are a few hobby lobby stores around as well.

What about results on hyd presses vs vacuum presses. Any input on the differences??

Yikes, that's a haul!!! If you could combo the trip onto another venture maybe it would be worth it. I'm not sure I'd be up for that drive.

So a basic vacuum setup looks like 90+80+bag (180). You are $350 in before incidentals and shipping. A hydraulic setup you could spend 120-180 on a press and get some foam or rubber. Prolly $220 or so. That's information I can use there!!!

I went to the store in Bloomington, MN. It's pretty local to me, as well as one other. Both are within 20 minutes drive time.

Vacuum vs Hydraulic.... Bag vs table... Desktop vs standup.... If one goes hydraulic, what sort of tonnage is required to mold some holsters?? This sure seems like it could be less $$ than a vacuum setup. Do vacuum setups typically yield better results or visa versa?? Are bag style vacuum setups typically on par with table types in terms of molding potential?? If one gets an HF pump, where do they go and what might they spend on a bag and doo-dads to get it running?? I'd love to get a bit further into this subject. I'm a bit light on knowledge here. What I know can be summed up as "the foodsaver sorta does the job". I'd like something that can double to molding power of my precious kitchen equipment though. Thanks for any input.

Well the one I picked out certainly looks like a peach, but I haven't cut into it yet to make a holster. Hopefully by next week I'm molding something out of it.

Like you, I have previously purchased some pretty hairy leather from tandy. It was an economy double shoulder for $50. This was the first leather I had ever purchased and at the time didn't know what I was looking for. Even now, knowing how much I trimmed off as it was useless to me, I don't regret the purchase. I may have not found the hobby as delightful as I do and it served to teach me a bit of what I don't want in leather. The euro bends I've looked at in the store have zero hair on the back, not even a little fuzz. They are split very well. They are tanned as a bend however and do have some small clamp marks from being staked out. I looked through a dozen or so, none had brands or obvious stretch marks, no cuts or spots that got to thin from splitting. I was only able to find some random "scuffs" that were all very small and not more that one or two per bend. With military elite pricing, and being on sale the bends are $109 for what looked like an average of 10-11 sq ft. At this pricing I decided I'd try one. It is very clearly better leather than what I started on. I have had the pleasure of trying out a little hermann oak and by look and feel it is not quite the same quality. I don't think I would have grabbed the euro bend if not for the sale and military discount but with those the value seemed reasonable. Going forward I think I'm just going to do backs or double shoulders from w&c. I was actually thinking of just doing a double shoulder from them instead of the euro bend but their splitter is down and I would have had a bit of a wait. I get my undies in a bunch about the markup buying HO from resellers.

Anyone tried this leather?? Was thinking of giving it a go and would be delighted to hear if anyone has had experience with it. Thanks!!

The surface area bit makes sense. I wouldn't mind picking one up if I thought it may outperform the foodsaver I'm using. I've briefly looked into other setups but the pumps are always a bit spendy for my liking. I think if I could do the project for under $150 all told I may be interested. I can't to the table style though, I'd have to run a bag. I have a very small home and space is at a premium. I need to be able to put things away when I'm not working.

These kits are designed for veneer work, such as skateboards. On the description of the basic pump included with the kit the description says: "The Thin Air Press pump is capable of removing all the air from the small Thin Air Press vacuum bags in less than a minute. It is a low volume, but high-pressure pump and will create almost 3000 lbs of pressure over the size of a skateboard deck!" I would have to believe that's a smidge more than my foodsaver, that does a ok-ish job.

Someone pointed out this vacuum setup to me.... was wondering if anyone has ever tried on or had any thoughts. http://www.roarockit.com/skateboard-building/thin-air-press/tap-kits/thin-air-press-kit-26x28/#.WMK5J1UrKCg

I like all these options popping up now. Good stuff for me to bookmark!! I'm up to 3 blueguns in inventory now, woot!! I'll never be a production holster feller, but it's nice to have the uber common ones. I find I'm making holsters for firearms I don't even have, just to get my reps in. Thanks for all the input folks!!

I am pretty darn new to leather but here is what I do know. On my holsters I currently used waxed "thread" from tandy. I saddle stitch with harness needles from tandy as well. If the thread is a little light for you, tandy also sells waxed braided cord. It is just a few hooks over from the waxed thread and they look nearly the same unless you look very close. The braided cord is 2-3x as thick. My holsters are two layers of 8-9 oz leather and the "thread" works great. I could not tell you now it equats to machine thread size though.

This made the light bulb go off. So, if I'm picturing this in my head correctly.... If I use a wonderfully made symmetrical pattern provided by, say JLS leather via the web, and wanted an unequal sided holster I could add a wee bit to the outside, subtract a wee bit from the inside and then cut my leather. When glued, it should already bend a bit in a curve because of the difference. I could use the same stitch lines when measure from the outside edge as the add/subtract happened in between the stitch lines. Sound 'bout right? What would one use for a "wee bit"??

I see what you're saying here. But if you add to the front and leave the back alone, would the front just "mold" more of the firearm when you wet form it?? I'm asking because I really have no clue. I'm just guessing.

My first thought was to thread a belt and wrap it around my thigh while boning the holster, then tossing it into the vacuum again. It seemed to work ok-ish. I certainly didn't get the vice effect. I think though I am going to try adding just a wee bit to the length to the outside panel and see how that goes. If I use the same pattern on the back and effectively put the added length in between the center stitch lines on the outside panel, that should make it simple.

So the biggest question, what are the methods used by the many established and great holster gurus here to dodge the "bind" when making a 50/50 pancake holster? I know first hand the issue, one of my first holsters turned into a vice when worn with a belt. It was not letting go. Had to insert some material on the side of the slide and re-moisten the holster to stretch it a bit. Salvaged it, turned out ok-ish. Since then I've simply cranked the front and back of the holster down (bent them) while wet to stretch the outside panel, in doing so it would lose some definition and depression in the trigger guard so they need to be gone over while stretching the panel while wet to maintain definition. I admit I have no earthly idea if that's the correct way or if it was absolutely daft. It did however work. The holsters since tighten up a bit on a belt, but do not turn into a vise. I'd be delighted to hear how others prevent the "vise" but maintain good retention on a belt. Since I use a poor mans vacuum press I was thinking about making a curved jig for the backside of the holster.

So.... Given the stretch-ability of leather, would it be safe to assume that when wet molding a 50/50 pancake, you could pre-stretch the front of the holster by bending it? Thus possibly preventing the binding issues?? Question asked by a complete rookie so keep that in mind.