Curbstrap2

So you think I should leave them uncovered altogether?

Can you offer suggestions on ways to minimize moisture in my tack storage area? I keep my tack at home as the barn I board at has limited space. The rest of my unused tack (5 saddles and assorted headstalls/reins/breast collars etc) are stored in my finished basement. My basement is dry, but my tack always seems cool/dampish to the touch. I know most of you will probably say, buy a dehumidifier, but that's not something I can do right now. I have my saddles covered over with cotton sheets to keep any dust and dirt off and hopefully absorb moisture. I try to wash and dry the sheets on a regular basis so that they are as clean as possible. Now with the spring rains, everything down there seems damper than usual. Any thoughts on this? I just don't have anywhere else to put them.

I have found an old electric toothbrush is great for getting into all the tooling. Just keep extra batteries on hand.

Not to hijack your thread, but quick question. I have recently seen older saddles redone with felt rather than sheep wool. What are the pros/cons to this? I guess cost is the primary deciding factor, but wanted to hear others feelings about this. Thanks.

Here is a saddle that I would love to find out more about. It signed Simon's Saddlery and marked 'Carl Faqua - maker' under the jockeys. It is marked Simon's Albuquerque NM in 3 or 4 places. It appears to be custom. Perfect sheepskin fleece, beautiful silver and the really unique thing is that the conchos are silver pesos all dated from 1951 to 1955. The horn cap is really beautiful. Its a 3" wide silver rope edged concho with a golden horse head in the center. The saddle is double rigged, but looks like it only been used a few times. If anyone has any information or input, I would appreciate hearing from you. Thanks! http://i84.servimg.com/u/f84/13/54/52/44/cimg1810.jpg

Thank you for your reply. Please take a look at the saddle shots and tell me what you think. http://s323.photobucket.com/albums/nn457/i...Wyeth%20Saddle/ Since I would need to ship it from the East Coast, I would like to get an idea of repair costs. Sincerely, Lynn

Thank you!

Can anyone recommend a saddle smith experienced with working with vintage western saddles? I am in the USA on the East Coast, but will ship if necessary. Thanks!

I had been way for a bit and found that my vintage Wyeth Saddle had endured a leaky water pipe. I have it out in the fresh air, out of direct sunlight to dry. Suggestions on how to remove the fuzzy mold from the roughout and clean/condition the saddle? Thanks for any help!

I posted this same question on another horse related site and someone suggested hot olive oil applied with a paint brush. I have never heard of such a thing. I was always taught to #1) Never use hot oil on leather and #2) Never use food grade oil on leather because of its inherent tendancey to encourage mold. Have I been living under a rock or is this a recommended technique?

Hi - I need some suggestions for restoring the life and flexibility to an old, neglected ( but still sound) saddle. This saddle had been stored in a barn uncleaned for about 15 years. I welcome your suggestions.

Thank you for your post. The saddle in question is a Sleipner saddle. I have been told that they are no longer in production, but had a very good reputation. The saddle itself is on the other side of the country and is priced very low($275.00). The seller claims it to be 10 - 15 years old and a 17.5 inch seat and a medium tree.. She says its sound and too narrow for her very wide Icey mare. However, she needs to move it and has priced it as a final sale item. I do not have an Icelandic horse, but TWH's and MFT's. I am willing to take a chance on it ONLY if I can use it for my guys. My horses for the most part are narrow bodied and short coupled. Any way, are you familiar with the Sleipner saddles?

Can anyone tell me how a saddle designed for an Icelandic horse would differ from a saddle designed for any other gaited or non gaited horse? If I am correct in my thinking, isn't a Tolt similar to a running walk and saddles designed to fit a gaited horse would accommodate a gaited horse of another breed? Thoughts?

<h1 class="subject">I'm Looking for information on the "Dundee Rancher " Saddle</h1> From the Australian outrider Collection. Here are some photos. Can anyone tell me if they have any experience with this saddle? Would also like to know about the quality and where it is made. Anything helps. Thanks! http://i16.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/16/09/47... http://i4.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/16/09/4df... http://i8.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/16/09/555...

Not a great shot. I took it on my phone. This saddle is in a local shop. Nice leather, good sheepskin. Only $275 and maker marked. Thoughts/opinions? http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/share.do?inv...State=RETRIEVED

Hi - Thanks for your input. I bought this one off of EBay because I was looking for paddock slammer. Something to break colts with and not have to use one of my good saddles. I got this one cheap, but I won't use it or keep it at this point. I have a beautiful Australian made Stock saddle from Bates. It's a shame this one didn't work out because I wouldn't have a heart attack if a horse went over on it. I guess my search continues....lol!

Thanks again for your help with the 'investigation'. I'll let you know what the final outcome. Even if it turns out the the tree is not broken, I won't keep it. I won't have an Asian made saddle in the barn!!!

Yes, I agree with you. Funny thing is that it doesn't have that Made in India "smell". I spoke to the seller and it turns out she bought it at an estate sale. No info, no history and she is not a rider and has no idea about saddles at all. Fortunately ,she said she would take it back if the tree is broken. I think it is. I am going to take it to a local saddler just to be sure.

Yes, I see the difference. The other thing I noticed is that when I compare it to my other Aussie saddle (Bates) this one is much lighter. I will check in later. Time to feed and do chores....I'll get back here as soon as I can. Thanks for your help with this.

1) I'm in the USA, east coast 2) The panels under the fleece are black, but they don't have the normal flocking inside. They can't be awled. The best I can describe the material is like a dense molded or extruded foam. Weird stuff. The lining in the gullet is a dark navy. So thats different. 3) I'm not familiar with the term "asain indicators?" . What does that mean? 4) The other thing that has me guessing is that the D-rings are like D - rings you would see on an English saddle. Plus the hardware on the pommel has be changed and reset lower.

Hi - Thanks for your reply. The saddle does not have a makers mark on it, unfortuantely...

I have a question for you experienced saddlers. Here are some links of a Aussie saddle I won on Ebay: http://i9.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/11/cd/db7... http://i7.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/11/ce/919... http://i12.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/11/d0/1e... http://i10.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/11/d0/a6... I did the usual tests to check for a broken tree and it does flex about 2 inches where the crease in the seat is. It also flexes/ wiggles from side to side if I grab the poleys (knee pads) and cantle and twist it. It does not make noise or creak when I do this. I can feel a bump in the underpanels under where the seat crease is. This saddle doesn't have the normal flocking found in other Aussie saddles, but now has fleece. I can tell its been worked on. It has mismatched hardware etc. I think it has a broken tree, but cant be sure. I could drive it out to a saddler, but that will cost me in gas close to the purchase price of the saddle. So, my question to you all is: How do you tell the difference between a broken tree and a flex/spring tree? Any insight you can provide is appreciated. Thanks!