scrapyarddog

Didn't, I hate suede. However, I will line pig suede on one bag in July though.

Thanks all! I started with an instructable (http://www.instructables.com/id/Classic-leather-briefcase-with-accordion-gusset/), and changed the patterns, procedures here and there: 1. Factored in the difference in length between the edge the gusset and the inside length, and cut the gusset based on the inside. 2. To lower the need to stretch the leather of gusset at the corners, the corners of the panels were cut as 1/4 circle of at 1.5" diameter and the sewing allowance.25". 3. I didn't prefold the gussett because as long as the partition board and the main panels are assembled correctly, the folds will develop easily. This gives a more rounded look. 4. The handle is folded from 3 oz leather. Wet formed. 5. The corners of the partition bag were cut inwards to reduce stress at the corners, and the weight of the gussett leather would form the edge. It wouldn't just collapse. 6. I made the partition boards by calculating the dimensions allowed by the gusset and did not prefold the gusset then measure (Al Stohlman's book does this) because I didn't prefold the gussett. and some other minor differences. the leather was 8-10 oz and 3 oz. I think the partition should be 4-5 oz tho since Wickett and Craig is so soft. made it for a friend.

Thank y'all. I was reading an online tutorial and realized the only thing that needed some studying was the gusset. Most other parts, if you know how to make a wallet, you can easily make.

Used 2mm chisel punch by mistake, stitching took a very very very long time. Wickett and & Craig is a lot softer than I expected but it also makes the gusset a lot easier to make. Made a few design mistakes here and there, but OH WELL.

Absolutely gorgeous!!

Will let you know if I just bruised my fingers trying to make the gusset or cracked the leather and killed myself out of depression. This guesset was made using W&C bridle 3 oz.

Hello All, Been working on leather for 7 months, found this forum full of information and fabulous works (and the advertisements for equipments sure made this a money pit). Working on briefcases lately! Decided to go for Wickett and Craig for this one. Very soft, and made work pretty easy.

Thanks and Thanks! Some friends have been kind enough to let me charge them for just material, so I've been testing the production on the bags they bought. I'll try neatsfoot on the Sedgwick 4-6 oz and see. So far, have a good supply of it but I feel guilty wasting it. However, talked to Cobra yesterday, David there gave reasonably convincing explanations as to the difference between them and Cowboy. So, likely will go Cobra. I might be able to make accordion gussets with 4-6 oz, but when that supply runs out, I'll still need to cut them. Plus, I'd like to make wallets with Sedgwick. W&C is convenient as they split for you, but they're very soft.

Thanks for the reply! I tried neatsfoot on another bag and it helped a bit but the difference wasn't too significant. Wondering if the acrylic coating I applied on the grain side prevented the absorption of the oil?

Hi Everyone, I'm pretty new to leather work and recently started making these bags. One problem I am having now is finding the leather of the right thickness to make these accordion gussets. I tried 4-6 oz, and they worked ok undyed, but once I dye them and finish both grain and flesh side, they become too hard and "brittle" for this. The 2-3 oz from Wickett and Craig works fine but when I look at the Sedgwick in my inventory, it just makes me wanting more... I have a a few pieces of Sedgwich of 4-6 oz thickness (both sides finished), and I'm not sure if they can be made into these gussets without either the leather cracking or my fingers breaking. Al Stohlman's book shows how to make them into a 3 piece inverted gusset, which is great, but I'm wondering if anyone has experience making these with a rather stiff English Bridle @ 4-6 oz? Also, debating getting a splitting machine to split 6-12" straps. Does anyone recommend a brand? I've been thinking Cobra or Cowboy. Thanks!!