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Ok Wiz I tried it and I guess the stock spring can be set soft enough for some reason I thought it couldnt and was too stiff but you are right there is a decent range I would say even more than decent. I adjusted a little more than slight turn of the post I went to slack and then came back some. Thanks. I sewed v69 in 4 layers ripstop and 1 layer cordura1000 with a #18 needle and corners are money!

One trick I use in these instances that has worked every time for me is to install a pre wound bobbin. They cant backlash the thread is super tight and almost bound together. I keep some G size v92 black pre wounds handy as backups just because the 1181 auto clone has occasional backlash issues with aluminum bobbins and springs etc. The G work in M cases really well just not full size. edit- If I was trying v69 on any of my triple feed machines I would have to consider that the check spring in the upper tension assembly is way too aggressive at stock setting. I tried the same experiment on a Singer 168g101 this week and with a stock check spring setting (from 138/92) I was not able to just change the upper and lower tension and sew a corner with 18 or 19 needle. Sometimes the lockstitch would even not form in sewing a straight line. Sometimes it would sew straight well but never did a top corner come out it was always pulled out. I quit before major adjustments were to begin and put 138/92 and 22 needle back in.

Maybe you could try a piece of cloth or material as your backlash spring as a test if you really feel its backlash and not a layer of ripstop top or bottom doing it (ripstop sewing is hard to keep knots all dialed tight in thin assemblies). I have about 2 layers of outdoor material superglued in a juki 1181 case I use as a backup to my case for my auto clone to stop backlash as the 3 spring setup I use in the stock case wont sit in the Juki case. I mentioned nylon as IMO the poly sews like crap. Always fraying ends and such seems to unravel etc. Thats just my .02. It could even be why you get these issues. In my bar tack machine the v69 poly is easily frayed on the cut to the point of a near miss tack.

Backlash is the loosening of the bobbin thread inside the case. It usually is an issue on automatic machines that cut the thread. If you are experiencing stitch errors starting a seam on 1541 its user error imo check your technique. Holding tails, top dead center start etc. That machine doesnt do v69 thread without adjustment it likes v92 with a 20 or 21 needle imo. I have the 1181 in direct drive auto clone model and it doesnt like 18 needles and v69 that much either on similar material. I sew that stuff with v92 and a 21 and holes are acceptable but not with a 22 and v138 on top hole too big with thin assemblies i.e. 4 layers outdoor material and 2 layers ripstop liner. edit- I run away from any poly thread like super fast - only bonded nylon in these walking foot machines IMO.

Being in KC I would just call Toledo and speak with the owner directly. Their site has actual pix and videos they made of machine and the price is the best online (2995 and up). The owner posts here and gives the best advice of all the 441 clone sellers IMO. I am a Consew dealer and I would probably buy a retail CB4500 from Bob before I bought a more expensive Consew 756r at wholesale.

If the cam is set wrong the feet go backwards and the feed goes forwards - the wrong way. I have seen it twice and fixed it twice. On a 168g101 the cam was improperly adjusted and left loose. It fell off the saddle it sits and spun loose on shaft. On a 153k103 it wasnt like that just set 150-180 degrees off. Point is that on the 153 someone had also just set the timing marks off to compensate for the improper adjustment up top at the cam. It looked OK except the vibrating presser foot timing was off. This may be the issue or not. I dont think the feed dog fork assembly below can come loose and make the dogs go wrong way but I could be wrong since it does ride on an eccentric dealio on the main shaft. Timing would have to be off to have the feed dog eccentric flipped wrong IMO.

Check page 8 of the manual and see if your relative height of presser feet and timing of vibrating presser foot is correct. That cam inside there (V, Fig 6) is easy to get wrong IMO and if a screw gets loose or someone fiddles with it feet can walk backwards yet everything else appears correct like timing belt and such. 226R-1.pdf (consew.com)

Here is my hook I think i got lucky this 151w is in pristine condition no slop or play and hook looks good. It only took me a couple years to dial it in lol. It was a binding setup that was totally thrashed but machine was still in great shape just needed to replace the binding parts. Now good as new.

I have a 151w1 and when I wanted to return machine to stock and needed needle plate and feed dogs and the cover plate to the right of the needle plate I called Ralph's in Denver. They bought all the old Singer parts when Singer gave up on repairs back in the day. I paid like 60 for the three parts and found the original feet for about 30 online (cutex sewing supplies ebay). If anyone has the hook assembly for a fair price its Ralph's. I run 135x1 size 16 needles with v46 nylon thread on light layers like ripstop. Its the only machine that doesnt pucker 2 layers of ripstop in my arsenal. Is it a real walker that can handle decent thickness? No not really people modify them all the time to do bigger thread and needles and sew stuff like leather but IMO thats a waste of time the upper thread tensioner is fixed without a moving pin to open and close it so thicker thread up to v92 up top can be used but maxes out the tensioner and makes pulling tails a pita. Needle system can be changed to dbx1 but one has to move hook over and again its a pita feed dog has to be dremeled etc. edit- The bobbin case assembly for a 107w1 does not fit the 151w1 hook assembly or vice versa. I tried it on two 107's just to see. It wont snap in and sit. It is the same bobbin though.

In cases where people are asking wayyyyy high prices, I send similarly ridiculous lowball offers. There are no rules in buying and selling lol.

1957. Mine was a 1965 sold it.

Turn off any auto features like needle position so in the corner you have to do it manually. It could be the positioner goofing up the two corner stitches. Just my .02 I have seen on my machines some issues with positioner in corners occasionally.

How about this manual page 6 and 7: 277ROpMan.pdf (consew.com)

I would bet you have the bobbin thread incorrectly routed watch this video. Doug Glenn of Consew gets the 227 to pick up bobbin thread while sewing the first few stitches. Not what I would do but as you see it does it automatically. Check your hook timing too if hook is off a bit it wont pick up bigger thread. It has to be super close to the scarf like .05" or less. A used machine can easily have the timing a bit retarded or advanced too so check that not just distance to scarf. Doug claims it will sew 207 on top with a 24 needle. I can get my chinese copy to do 138/138 all day with a 23. I generally use a 22 with 138/92 on this G bobbin style machine. Consew Sewing Machine 227R-2 Demo - YouTube

The old Singer home buttonholers have the keyhole templates and make them well on 2 layers of outdoor fabric in my tests. I doubt anyone trying 2 layers of any leather will get them to work. If someone took an old low shank home machine like a singer 15 aluminum or a 66 and put it on a servo and lowered the feed dogs so as not to use the bottom plate, then maybe 2 layers of leather in a keyhole from an old singer home buttonholer could work. Thats a bit of work to just test a theory. In the photo above I am using the longest non-keyhole template- one of about 6-8 that come with buttonholer.