JRB

Looking for some suggestion on how to cover snaps, rivets, etc. that would be exposed against the gun. I'm working on my 1st thumb break for an OWB (I've mostly been doing IWB for true concealment). Against the body I was going to double the leather at the snap point w/an insert to stiffen. But on the "strap" piece coming over the gun, how do you cover that snap to keep from riding against the gun? I thought about sewing in a liner but I figured that could wear through over time. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

Very nice all the way around (design, molding, etc.). Surely this isn't your 1st leatherworking?!?

I've ordered from Cops Plus. Fast & friendly w/a price match. It's the uncommon guns I'm having a hard time with.

Here is the start of my next holster: IWB w/reinforced mouth for Glock compact Leather: 7/8 oz Wickett & Craig Dye: Angelus black 507 Working on a reinforced mouth to see how it works to keep from colapsing and aid in 1 hand reholstering. Also going to dye before I mold it. Thinking about even trying the dip method. I'm questioning if I should have dipped the pieces before I put them together??? Still got a little more stitching to do...Sure wish I had a sewing machine!!!

I have some natural colored thread that is pre-waxed. If I stitch everything and then dye, will the thread take the dye and match the leather? For this application I'm using black Angelus dye. I dipped a little thread in the dye and it didn't seem to dye very well. Not sure if after stitching some wax would wear off and then dye better. If not, I guess I'll need to continue using black thread.

Here are some color samples I got from Angelus. Not the best quality pics but the best I can do until we get a nice sunny day here. Colors are produced from just a quick dip. All are w/o a finish coat. Cordovan (deep rich color - could easily end up close to black w/multiple coats) Light Brown Honey Jet Black (probably the darkest/deepest black) 507 Black Pro Black The Honey was my biggest surprise. I did not expect it to be so dark. Maybe if applied w/a dauber I could get it lighter???

I never got your list to place a order a while back. Do have the list for availability?

I forgot all about them. Do they still have the quality issues I've read about in the past.

I've checked all the sources I know of and can't find dummy guns for Bersa or SKKY (SCCY). Any suggestions on where to look?

Is there a better regular line 24 snap than a Tandy brand?

Who is using directional snaps (like these pull the dot - http://www.dotfastenersdirect.com/catalog.html) for their holsters? Any recommended places to get directional snaps? Anybody sell them that come as a package w/cap, socket & stud? Does it require a special tool other than the normal anvil set up for line 24 snaps? As always...Thanks!

I agree that it presented some challenges for a newbie, but now has bad as I first thought. Still room for improvement though, but when won't there be?!? Thanks for the advice! At first I was concerned that having the butt loop closer would interfer with draw but found with the right pattern and cant it should not affect it. The butt loop will be moved closer on future designs.

Thought I'd post a finished picture. I've learned some more and will make some changes for the next one.

Do you think it matters if you dip dye before or after wet molding when using Angelus dyes?

Your theory makes sense. Can you ever apply too much dye/too many coats? I considered the drum dyed leather when I ordered but I don't produce enough volume to buy leather for various colors. I my try dipping the dye next time.

So far i've used spirit dyes. The Angelus was "Jet Black". I do have some of the Pro Black. Would the deglazer & oxalic acid work equally as well to prep before dye? Thanks guys!

I can't figure out what is causing the blotchy dye. It was really bad w/Fiebings (pictured). I am trying Angelus and it is better but still a little blotchy. I'm using Wickett & Craig leather. After welt molding I wipe it down w/alcohol then apply dye w/a wool dauber. I apply a light coat of neats foot oil and after it soaks through (next day) I apply finish coat. My first guess would be either something w/preparing the leather before dye and/or the neats foot oil. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks! Yes, I just put the leather belt loops on. I wouldn't consider it to be much like a VMII (although I wish I could be considered in the same class). The VMII is a great design and a standard to be judged by in my book. Aside from the fact the Sparks holsters are far beyond mine, this design does not have a reinforced mouth. My next trial will be a reinforce mouth but not the wrap around that the VMII and others like it have.

Applying finish coats. Early to give a full report on Angelus dye but so far I'm happy. I'll post some pics of the dyes I have soon.

Care to share on your method for making the belt clips (pics of your jig maybe)? Don't mean to hi-jack the thread.

I started my first holster w/a chisel. Did 1 side w/the chisel and finished the other w/an awl. Have you considered using a stitching awl. I would recommend the Al Stohlman book on stitching!

Wickett & Craig 7/8 oz leather Angelus Jet Black Dye I am in the process of applying dye so there is no finish coat yet. I just got some various color dyes from Angelus so I'm anxious to see how the finished product turns out compared to Fiebing's (which I have not been overly impressed with but could be user error). Here are some pics of my latest. One picture is after wet molding and the other after dye. Please fire away.

Looks good for your 2nd go at it. Are you drilling or using a chisel for you stitching holes? Hard to tell from the pic but they look big.

I think I will give this a try some time after a morning brew!

No problems w/the finish adhering to that is there?