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Zonker1972

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Posts posted by Zonker1972


  1. when i re-did my seat in veg tan, it was recommended to use 4-5oz for the top and 2-3 for the side. i found 2-3 got really brittle after dying but looking at your seat that won't be an issue. 

    also, i found that the dyed veg tan will fade quite quickly in the sun. i am currently working on a way to keep dyed color but vinegaroon or iron oxide black appears stable

    good luck

     


  2.  

    On 2/8/2022 at 12:32 PM, gregintenn said:

    Thank you, sir. That would be much easier.

     I'll probably go with some pre dyed leather next time as well.

     

    was this veg tan that you dyed? I have had very bad luck keeping the dye color, green and black, in my motorcycle seats. i've tried several different top coats with no luck. what did you use as a top coat?


  3. 5 hours ago, Garyak said:

    Was it shaken up before use? The sheen will definitely separate from the mix if it sits. Same with Polyurethane. I had to redo 2500sq feet of hardwood floors for that reason. Guys doing that part just opened the cans and applied it. No effort to mix. Wasn’t a minor difference either… I airbrush everything and never had that issue, but it reminded me of a lesson learned and employees fired. 

    That's a good point. I initially poured some shene into a cup. So. I guess i could have had separated. 


  4. I was finishing off a new motorcycle seat yesterday. I assembled the seat before my final top coat. I finished the top of the seat with 10 coats of Eco-flow gloss super shene. When I went to add the super shene to the sides of the seat, i thought it would be easier to use my airbrush. I did 10 coats with the airbrush, undiluted super shene, at ~25psi. the top coat went on fine but it has a matt finish even through i used the same gloss super shene. 

    Does anyone know why this happened?

    thanks.


  5. I am sharpening a new 37mm Japanese skiving knife and I was wondering if I should put a camber on the edges of the blade. For those of you who do not know, a camber is a slight rounding at both ends, right and left, of the blade's cutting surface so that the blade's edges do not "dig in". The majority of the blade remains square to the cut but there is a gentle curve on both of the ends. My thought is that this may make easing into a skive easier. Does anyone have an opinion on this one way or another? thanks.


  6. i just installed a belt clip like you are describing on a dog treat pouch. i riveted it in place but found that the end of the clip kept getting in the way when i wanted to attach the pouch to my belt. i make a quick sheath to go over teh mounted side of the clip, attached to the pouch, and now the clip slides right onto my belt.

    i am not familiar with the plastic spacer you are describing. perhaps a picture or two would help people understand.  


  7. I built a catch-all for a friend over the last few weeks and when i applied fiebing's tan kote the piece got quite stiff. my order of operations: i tooled, the dyed with fiebing's pro dye 3x with about 2-3 hours in between coats, wait 24 hours, buff to remove excess dye, then oiled with some olive oil al la Don Gonzalez, let dry overnight and then finally coated with tan kote 2x with about 4 hours of dry time in between coats. this isn't a real big deal but my friend would like to be able to roll up the catch all and take it different places. i'm afraid that the tan kote will crack or craze. has anyone else run into this? i thought tan kote was supposed to dry to a more supple finish than resolene. is it possible i laid the tan kote on too thick? i'd like to understand why this happened as i am considering coating the motorcycle seat that i tooled with tan kote, the leather balm with atom wax did not create a good seal.

    thanks in advance for the help.


  8.  hope someone has

    an idea why this is happening. The 2nd pic show the seat after stain and covering with leather balm with atom wax while the 1st pic shows that the green Fiebing's pro dye is wearing off the seat. i had some luggage strapped to the seat for my trip to and from Sturgis this year. but this seat has only been used for this season. i would like to know if anyone has an idea as to why it looks like the green dye is all rubbing off. any help is greatly appreciated.

     

    after-crop.jpg

    b4-crop.jpg


  9. I've searched through the forum and done some google searching but i'm just getting a consistent answer on top coating motorcycle seats that will be used in the weather. I used oil based dyes, allowed them to dry for 72 hours and then oiled with olive oil, al la Don Gonzalas. But now I am stuck on the best finish to use to protect my leather as well as allow me to condition my leather. 

     I have discounted resolene even though it would be a barrier to the elements because I do not feel that an acrylic top coat will flex with use and it would be a permanent barrier allowing no leather conditioning over time..

    Don Gonzales has suggested on his youtube vids that tan kote allows the leather to absorb oils but is "water resistant". I initially liked this idea and was going to finish with tan kote. however, the more work I put into these seats, the more scared I am that some weather will destroy all my work.

    I have also seen some post on using leather balm with atom wax and/or pecard motorcycle leather dressing. The ideas I took away from these posts is that the wax creates a barrier to keep out water but not a permanent barrier, a barrier that requires some maintenance. 

    I am starting to lean towards the leather balm with atom wax or the pecard. Can I get some opinions from others who have made tooled motorcycle seats?

    thank you,

    Zonker

     

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