JC2019

Ah good idea about the thrift store for exotics, didnt think about that! Is the problem with splits that they break/tear easy? I was thinking I could also use it to build the structure of a backpack and put a softer leather on the outside.

Thanks for info, didnt know they had sides at that price, about how many square ft? I was told to stay away for splits because its almost trash? Above genuine leather. But I saw that they sell 30 square feet for $20 so that seems pretty cheap to practice.

Hi, I am just getting started, bought some veg tanned hermann oak leather which is nice but a little expensive for experimenting and learning. For making things like wallets and playing with various designs, do you guys mostly just go for it or do you use an alternative cheaper material? Most likely I'll buy some D grade veg tanned leather (saw some for under $3 a square foot). Or maybe I should look into splits, oil or chrome tanned? Not sure if they would be firm enough or the right material to play with for wallets. I looked at veg tanned pigskin but that's about $5 a square foot. My goals is to move up to more exotics. If anyone also happens to have good source for cheaper, lower grade alligator skins that I could learn on let me know, would love to hear. I know Caiman is much cheaper but perhaps too different? Thank you

Interesting thank you. Will have to try out these ideas out

Thanks for the reply. I own the first book, and yeah along those lines. I will take a loom at the boots one thanks. I wonder if there are other similar books outside of footware.

Hi I own some leather working books on process and creation but I'm wondering if you guys know of any "pretty to look at" coffee table style inspiration books that focus exclusively on leather? Almost like a fashion design book but just with leather, doesn't have to be fashion specific though. From veg tan, exotics... anything really could be mixed in or specific.... shoes.. handbags.. clothes, armory, etc? My current source is instagram / internet Thanks

Thank you for the info will check them out, though I will need to figure out how to purchase. I wanted to ask you if you have ever dealt with buying crusts of exotic leathers like crocodile or ostrich and experimented with dyeing? Any tips or advice? I think I saw Springfield leather do a video on dyeing crusts on your own and it's something I would like to research more. It makes me wonder how the two tone crocodile belly is done (which is one of my favorites) and iridescent fish/etc is also interesting.

Great, sent you a note. I hadn't heard of the Crucible, will have to check it out.

Thanks for the great explanation. What fabrics do you find works for reinforcing the wallets. I just put an order in for a fabrics swatch book used by fashion designers which will give me a taste for various materials. Sadly leather is not covered.

I've seen a video of people using a dremel with a sand paper attachment but I'm wondering if I could use something else, maybe a wood working tool I may already own? I am okay with spending on tools but I don't want to buy every tool out there when I'm getting started & there is so many option and variations. I also read of someone using a hand plane on leather which could serve for splitting leather to some extent? Thank you

I see thanks. For working with exotics, how do you normally deal with "splitting"? I assume some skiving is still involved? What oz / mm thickness do you like to use for your wallets (and interiors?). Do you often use something like veg tan to reinforce certain materials? Thanks

Nice. I will need to checkout the toad bull frog. I had an order with Springfield of various exotic remnants but sadly it didn't arrive but maybe it's for the best, I feel I've learned a bit more already since I ordered it. For the buckles, are they glued with contact cement onto something else or they wrap around and stitch somehow?

I wonder how much of it is marketing with exotics and rarity. For example, have you worked with pirarucu leather? Is it good to work with? In general I'd be curious to hear your favorite exotics to work with and why, I assume it varies by application. When I went to checkout some exotic leather I was surprised that things I thought I would be impressed by I was not as much as other things. I guess I will need to form my own taste. The two exotics leather crafters I have talked to here in the USA have both said they prefer to work with alligator the most.

Ah did not know. I was under the impression that it was always the alligator that was most desirable. Are there mainly two type of finishes? The glazed, almost plastic like feel and the matt, more supple? For exotics, particularly reptiles, is there such a thing as "chromium" tanned, oil tanned, vegetable tanned, etc? From what I can tell, glazed leather is used for things like bags and maybe even shoes? But not recommended for wallets? I assume it just doesn't bend nicely?

Ah okay, thanks guys. I see now.

Agreed on the last point. My main fear is buying remnants or a hide and mistakenly telling someone it's something else it isn't. For example, even caiman vs crocodile vs alligator. At this point I barely learned how to identify hornback from the scale patterns at the top near the neck area ( but I could not do that with a belly). From what I understand:2x2x2 = alligator, 4x2 = crocodile, 4x4x2 = caiman. Caiman being the hardest to work with and sew through. I am still early in my research and I know there are tons of different types of crocodilians out there from different parts of the world. Do you have any tips for differentiating the bellies of these 3? Especially alligator vs crocodile. I know Caiman is supposed to have small dots in the scales sometimes?

Awesome, thanks will check it out. How hard is it to distinguish a good alligator print in veg tan from the real thing? I will need to find a supplier in the US and order some.

@RockyAussie Thanks. I did have some questions that maybe you could help answer. Not sure what the best way to contact you is but here they are: 1) I've read that there are some pretty good prints for alligator belly these days. I thought about getting a few samples to see if I could even tell the difference between the real thing. Do you have any experience with these and any ideas of what leather makes the best prints (maybe lambskin)? I have even seen some hornback made with cowhide listed on etsy. I want to be as educated about this trade as possible and I think knowing about prints could be important. 2) I posted a thread about this but I was told by a leather distributor in the USA that it's pretty hard to get the shine / gloss back on a glazed alligator belly once it's gone dull. I would love to try my hand at restoration even if just to learn more about the material. Any tips on this or ideas? Thanks for the offer on training, it is very generous. That will take me more planning and arranging for me.

Thanks to joining this site I've already found way more resources that I knew existed related to shoe making which is great. I am going to give that $3 a month thing a try too. Now I am still looking for more information about exotic leathers and people who work in that space. I've been told it's not to different than working with other leather but I am not sure. Ruining some of that leather would be a bit more expensive. I think I need to go out on my own first and then get a list of problems and questions I encounter and then reconsider paying for instruction at that level. So far I think I have enough for starting with shoes (I purchased the Jason Hovatter DVDs and will be buying others as I go through those). If anyone has any good resources on: - working with exotic leathers. @RockyAussie How did you get started? Did you learn under someone or found any helpful guides/books? Trial and error? - making leather jackets Please let me know. Thank you!

I am having a hard time finding information on this, I own "Handmade shoes for men" by Ullmann and have tried to see this technique on the videos online. As far as I can tell, the back part of the sole, the heel is attached with nails but then they can be seen when it's all finished? Wouldn't those be at risk of scratching hardwood floors if the sole wears down? Or am I missing something? I am very new so I am probably missing something. Thanks

This is great. What was the part you struggled with and what did the boot maker help with? Was there a fee? This is something I would love to learn some day.

Anyone know if its possible to clean a dull alligator glaze belly? Something that looks like water has gone on it and has lost it's shine? I can't find much info on this online at all. I was told it can't be done? Thanks

Cool thanks. Will look. I am in the Bay Area, California. I found a shoe class but it says the latest class was 2017 so it might have ended.

Yeah I have the same problem. I often want to do tons of research and read or watch guides, I am trying to change that and just go for it. I find I am more inclined to learn via a structured class. So in a sense, spending the money just so I get started and actually complete a few complex projects could be worh it for me. What resources have you been able to find? Any good videos ?

Thanks all. Perhaps the right word would I should have used is atelier. Ah, and yeah I would love to that one day, especially because of my interest in exotics. That seems like a fantastic offer. I may ask you some questions. I believe you are also interested in 3d printing and lasers (from your album)? One is Amblard Leather Atelier (Hermès trained teacher) , mainly starting with small stuff building up to bag making. It's about $3.5k for the starter class of 12 full Saturdays. The entire program seems to add up to maybe closer to 17k. The other is John Fong Exotics, (found him on a list of exotic suppliers posted here actually) who I went to visit because of my interest in exotics and I didn't realize he also offered classes. That is also about $3k for 3 full weeks (which can be spread over weekends) to learn how to make moccasins, belts, wallets and misc accessories. They both seem like great options to me but I don't know much. I would do both if money was of no concern. I will need to save up and be a bit responsible. My interest is in everything from wallets, backpacks, jackets but i've always had a weak spot for footwear. I'm a complete beginner and I am not sure if I am too green for these classes. I suppose the balance is always between spending that money on tools and material and messing up on my own. But I am not sure, a good teacher in my eyes is worth a lot, especially for things like footwear. I can't even find many resources on "modern moccasins". Much less on making cowboy boots which I know takes years to learn and I've only seen a $900~ DVD online recommended on a guide on reddit. The other thing I find extremely hard to find even books on are exotics.