SShepherd

A suggestion on the handle- use a countersink on the holes, just to knock the top edge off. They'll be more comfortable and will be less prone to chipping

my point was simply to provide the data, not advocate for it

I knew the "compound" was different than straight neatsfoot but I couldn't found out what the added ingredients were. I've read anything from silicon to parrifin wax

If anyone's interested, I found an MSDS sheet on fiebings neatsfoot oil compound. https://www.statelinetack.com/ContentFiles/Associated_Content/E007499FiebingsNtftOilCompound.pdf

the edges are rounded, adding a strap and thanks for reminding me about the tip

thanks all, I'm pretty much finished with this one.

Oiled and hit with Neat lac (yes is a bW stamp from bulgaria)

Well it's all stitched up, I need to add a loop/snap for the handle and decide that to do to seal it up. I'm thinking either antuquing it with dark brown or just hitting it with neetsfoot oil. Can you do both ? I guess it's not awful for my first sheath in 40 years

Ok, now that I can take a breath I can start on stitching. How'd I do ?

Unless they're case hardened, which I highly doubt, sanding/polishing will not effect them (that's how you sharpen a knife). You only have to worry if you're using them on powered grinder and bring the heat up past the temp. they were tempered at. Your fingers will burn first

I think I'm going to add a small tapered wedge at the kick of the blade because if the thickness. I need to run to tandy tomorrow.

I took it to the grinder with an 80grit ceramic belt, it worked like a charm

Thanks, that's what I was looking for ! I'm seeing more and more people don't use groovers and use creasers. Looks like I'll have to make one now.

I figured 1/8" was the standard and that proportionally things look better in relation to distance and thickness. The problem I'm working on is a very thick and wide sheath and trying to keep it from being absurdly wide .

Is there a guide or rule of thumb to use when deciding from from the edge to lay out your stitching ? Is there a relation between the thickness of the leather and distance or the number of stitches per/inch, or both ?

Thanks for the help. The only issue I'm having difficulty resolving is white, I can use dye for the other colors I need.

can you give me an example of why you would use one over the other ?

I have a few large, thick knives I'm working on and I want to taper the welt to make the sheaths less thick. The spine on them is 3/8" tapering to 1/8" at the tip. I plan on using a thinner welt at the edge. This is one of the projects off the grinder. And suggestions would be helpful and appreciated.

is acrylic dye the same as acrylic paint ?

Am I correct in thinking that paint will eventually crack or flake off ? That being the case dye would be the better choice ?

Oh that one's long gone, I farmed the sheath out to a pro.

Hi everyone, I've been lurking for a few weeks and thought I'd introduce myself. I'm a knifemaker, been doing it for 20 years now and I've resisted making sheaths...because I'm stubborn. I've farmed them out to other guys, bought el-cheapo sheaths and included them at cost to customers but I just can't justify it anymore. So here I am here's something I did a while ago, damascus with a japanese steel core, bog oak handle