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TonyGreen3455

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Everything posted by TonyGreen3455

  1. regarding letters: Atlanta they were asked to provide examples of base material and binding tape as well. it is not a problem, but... due to we make bags to order, our range changing almost weekly. so, my common sense tells me that I need to post the heaviest materials I can use for it, and probably light stuff (the same width) will go through the same binder easily - am I right? I can order 1 only - what you would suggest? Germany and Durkopp - still in progress College Sewing UK - a few letters sent, no answer so far... a bit strange. I found Italy-made binders here: https://armastore.eu/cf-1507-raw-edge-tape-binder-6-mm - is it worth it? regarding spool holders - looks like the longest length we can use is around 1.5m only - I can not see any reason to buy it.
  2. holders with real bearings - omg! they are real?
  3. done, letters posted. many thanks for your help!
  4. Hello! Can any of the masters explain to a newbie - how to bend approximately 1mm in thickness leather tape over the 16oz canvas on a DA669 ECO cylinder arm machine to get a pro result? Q: apart from the binder itself what else do we need? in my particular case (DA669 ECO), what is a complete set consist of? have been asking some sellers and they say different and sometimes controversial info - "you must have that&that&that.." or "you do not need to use specific foot, needle plate, feed dog to work together with the binder, just with your original parts", etc. so, AFAIU: (according to Kwok Hing site) 1. Single raw fold binder. And it is to be attached to the moving arm. 2 items in basket. a few times have seen recommendations to use a 135' binder (instead of 90') for easy leather moving - can anyone recommend a place where can I find it? Moving arm rocking with feed dog - looks like needle plate and feed dog a must as well? Looks like these 3 (binder + moving arm + needle plate with feed dog) it is a minimum we need to set it up - am I correct? 2. presser feet - do we really need a special one or we can use a common one? advice and suggestions you could give would be much appreciated
  5. a bit more info about leather sheets - grain and flesh side - hope it helps
  6. ok, guys, RSPCA, all neighbors, and insurer already informed. any other special requirements in this covid time? )
  7. hello! sorry to coming with my Q, but looks like it is a bit similar. Just got a few shits of leather - please see pict - and during transportation or storage leather paint got - I even do not know how to describe it - leather paint's crack? paint marks? from one side it is giving a bit of charm, but... anyway, does anyone can give some advice for a newbie - how to fix or even completely remove it? leather conditioner? balm? paint restorer? any other chemical? iron? regards
  8. Hello! Can any of the masters explain for a newbie, please - how to stitch a tubular/round handle on the sewing machine? Around 1mm leather with a 10mm cord inside. Walking foot machine. I understand it in theory, have watched lots of videos with hand stitching, but no one using a machine for it - is it for a reason? Estetique or some technical limitations? It's because of a special foot or some other equipment needed? A foot for an edge stitching would be fine for it or installing a full set "piping foot + feed dog" the only real solution for a proper result? Any other recommendations or tricks for it will be highly appreciated.
  9. This leather was proposed to used for a holster flap. And probably for another kind of flaps as well (i.e. bags, cases, etc., ). Maybe it is a bit thicker than necessary, but I was hoping I'll be able to soften it and it will be OK. 2battlemunky - on the raw edge, the soft leather looks very similar to the hard one - how you can see that it is a chrome tanned leather? Just because of softness? Means I never ever will get 5mm veg leather such a soft/flexy?
  10. Мaybe you're right, tsunkasapa I'm just confused by the color of the raw edge - does it look like veg? Or am I wrong and is it real chrome leather, just thick?
  11. OK, just to be sure - here is a photo of two leather with approximately the same thickness. the softness is very different. do they bend differently due to dryness? Neatsfoot Oil - is a solution?
  12. fredk, many thanks for your reply. the skin is tough because it is thick, I wouldn't call it "dry". anyway, I will try your way. BTW - on which side I have to use oil - from glossy shiny or matt bottom?
  13. Hello! Can you please give advice for a novice - how to make a 5mm veg tan leather softer? I mean not the surface, but the skin itself? How to make it less dense, more pliable, so that it bends easier. Seen a lot of advice on youtube, but... looks like all videos about a surface, not about a leather structure. Can anyone here help me?
  14. I remember it is why I'm here and coming to pro guys with newbie questions, just to prevent long crying ) Juki and their clones AFAIK have a jog dial for length regs and reverse pedal. Regarding one machine for everything - you right, different tools for different jobs, but... nowadays who knows what will customer look for tomorrow? Especially if I'm choosing my first machine for leather. Anyway, I booked a visit to my local dealer already, just trying to narrow and finally find the name of my dream ) Can anyone help me to recognize this model of Juki?
  15. Just now has spoken to my local dealer - for my requirements he suggested Global 9205. Heavyweight machine, will it work with thin leather?
  16. Matt, thanks for a great idea regarding Thor dealers - I'll definitely mail them Bert, Adler 105 as well as Pfaff 335, etc. - great machines, but.. they all with 6mm stitch length... it is at the end of my list. Pfaff 335, Juki 1341, Adler 105 - I know they all with 6mm stitches, but some of their clones (like THOR GC1341) coming with some modification/improvements. So, on the current stage, I'm looking for such clones with stitches longer than 6mm, preferably in the UK or EU.
  17. Juki 1341 is a reputable machine but has a 6mm stitch length only. I found one 341 clone - THOR GC1341 with 9mm stitch length, but it is a quite rare machine in the UK. I would prefer some European makes due to post-sale service availability and delivery price as well. Regarding the arm length - I'm sure that normal1341style arm would cover all our needs. Regarding threads size - from one side we do not need heavy threads as we no planning to work with heavy stuff (saddles etc.) but... big threads like 277 looking so cool in some decorative cases... so, it is hard to decide... in any case my first choice will be with a long stitch machine, not a thread size. And the feeding system should be able to wok with thin/gentle and hard materials as well. In this case, it looks like we need 2 feed sets - for the soft stuff and leather plus another one for strong fabric materials (straps, canvas, etc.). Or we can use the same, special extra-wide-using one?
  18. Hi and many thanks for the reply. High foot clearance and long stitch machines necessary for upholstery mainly and it is included in our business plans as well. I've heard from many people that Adler 206 and Juki 441 are heavy machines for heavyweight materials with heavy thread and high tensions and will make a pig's ear of the lighter stuff like bags etc.. So the heavy stitchers are no good on light stuff. Due to this, I think the 205/441 may be too heavy duty for me, I shall lookout for a more medium-duty machine. Looks like my Q should be like this - is there some old-style (up to 30 y.o. ) medium-weight machines with at least 10mm under the foot (by hand or by auto, bigger-better) and which able to create long stitches, longer than 6mm? Something in Adler 269/Pfaff 335 league?
  19. Hello! I'm a newbie on this forum and leather world as well. Registered here as I'm looking for expert's advice and some recommendation. I'm looking to buy a machine to make bags, suitcases and different leathercrafts. Firstly - I know that it is to be a cylinder arms machine. It should have at least 10mm under the foot (by hand or by auto, bigger-better) and be able to create long stitches, longer than 6mm. Servo and positioning a must as well, but I'm pretty sure it can be installed /replaced easily for an extra cost. I spent a lot of hours googling it, but only I found was some new (Juki, Techsew) machines with such parameters, but they are completely out of my budget. So, need your advice please - is there some old-style (up to 30 y.o. ) machines that could suit me, especially in terms of stitch length? Do such machines exist at all? I would prefer some well known Europian or American names, refurbished or used, but quality Chinese or Korean manufactures will not be ignored. Any advice and opinions welcome!
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