wkleather

I could check that out if you'd like. I have an Adler 205-370 and a juki LS 341. Both with flatbed attachments, various plates and feet etc. Do you have any other details, leather weight, number of pieces? Thanks Walt

That is cool. If you use dye for the accents / scars, dilute it with isopropyl alcohol. Dye the accent a little bit at a time with some dry time between. This will let you keep adding dye but the alcohol evaporates and you'll be able to get the desired effect, but it does take some time. Straight dye will be way too dark and heavy. The amount of alcohol to add is dependent on how dark or light you want the shading to be. I have found that after mixing a batch as the alcohol evaporates your mix will get darker so don't forget to redilute or soon you'll have straight dye again (ask me how I know) I use a mix of greens and browns to try to get a "fresh out of the grave" look. I practiced a lot and eventually.got what I was looking for Nice first project. My first dozen ended up in the trash.

This prototype runs on a 9v battery. Next bags will plug into brake light and turn signals

Wet molded and dyed leather skulls, 8oz W&C bridle leather. Got a little crazy and put LED's in eyes. Red in rear flap skull, amber in two sides. Working on a way to lock it to bike. Bike is in storage for a couple more weeks.

That's a tough question. I wouldn't want to tangle with the NFL over copyright infringement.

It's my guess that if you had both in your hands you could tell the difference.

happy wife, happy life.

I knew this would be the place to inquire. You guys have forgotten more than I'll ever know. Looking forward to sewing off some samples come Wed and hopefully will bring it home. My Adler loves 207-346 thread but some projects need a lighter touch and my 111w155, although great, has it's limits. I'll post results.

Nearly all machines are now manufactured in China. Adler in Czech Republic? Do the brand names, even if made in China, require higher tolerances, better metallurgy, QC, and inspections than clone factories or nobody really knows. I read mixed reviews on nearly all clones, but some appear to get much better reviews than others (Cowboy, Leather Machine Co., Artisan get good reviews). It appears to me they are all made in the same factory, all appear to be Highlead. Who knows? I also wonder about longevity of clones. A Chinese shuttle for my 205 is $58 (no way), a Japanese made shuttle is $200. I think there is a difference, but never having bought either, how do I know? If it wouldn't cause a divorce I'd buy a new Adler 969 and 669, and throw in a Campbell-Randall while we're at it.

We are still Bears fans. It's " what have you done for us lately" ?

That's part of the reason I prefer brand names, not clones. I see used Juki 341's for $1500. Not saying clones are bad, but a new clone 341 is $2100, a new Juki 1341 is $4500. There must be a reason. In 2005 I paid $1600 for my German Adler 205-374, I would want at least $2500 for it now (not for sale). Not sure I'd get that but wouldn't part with it for less.

All great advice. I will give it a going over. Hoping it's as smooth as my Adler.

I'm taking some leather on Wednesday to run off a sample.

Not used commercially, a hobby machine, not very old, claims maybe 30 hours on it. Looks pristine.

Just found a Juki LS-341 w/stand and servo motor (no speed reducer) in VGC for $1000. Any reason I shouldn't jump on it? The max stitch length is 6mm, but are stitches in 138 (or smaller) usually longer than .23 inches?

Thanks Wiz. Thats the kind of info difficult to glean from spec sheets (other than bobbin size). A 1341 sounds like it would suit my needs. In the used market what about an Adler 269? M bobbin and 207 max, correct? If it's anything like my 205-374 it should last forever and hold it's resale value.

what advantage would a 1341 have over a 227RB? Are they the same feet, etc?

Thanks all, too bad the Bears aren't winners (yet).

Thanks. I'll start my search for a used Juki. I'll call Bob at Toledo and see what's available.

New tote for wife (a wee bit-o Bears fan). Football leather, patch inlaid behind marine vinyl, W&C black bridle leather, real football laces, fully leather lined.

Thanks. Looks like the narrow cylinders aren't up to the challenge of 138. I'll look into the 1341. I believe the 227 maxes out at 138. A new Juki is probably twice my budget, though I don't mind a good used machine.

Machine experts, I am in the market for a medium wt. cylinder arm for 69-138 thread. I am starting some lighter wt projects (10oz max) and don't want to change my Adler 205 from the 207-277 she's running beautifully (don't think it'd run less than 138). I have a nice Singer 111w153 but flat bed limits its use in some phases of construction. Thinking Adler 69-373, Pfaff 335, Consew 227RB, Juki 246, I am sure there are others, not really interested in new clones, though I guess technically Consew and Juki are clones. Walking foot, large bobbin a plus but not deal breakers. Part availability and options matter, maybe a tape binder. Budget $1500-2000, maybe a little higher for the right machine. Any thoughts, opinions, or additions to my short list? Thanks.