Jump to content

Leather2

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    70

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Leather2

  1. Posted · Report reply

    2 minutes ago, kgg said:

    This is a class 441 machine with a small cylinder arm having around 9 inch work surface using the 794 needles. The actual work surface maybe less it depends on whether it is measured from the end of the cylinder arm or the needle to the body of the machine. Having such a short work area may pose a problem with some items. A machine with a 16.5 inch cylinder arm would be more versatile. I think this model was replaced by their 3200 model costing around $2600 new. With other machines like the Cobra and Cowboy there are narrow needle plates, presser feet and feed dogs available to allow those class 441 machines to sew thinner items, closer to the edge, use lighter thread thread then the regular / standard ones will allow. I don't know if they will fit the Artisan machines.

    It is hard to determine whether this is a good deal without photo's it will depend on things like working condition, visible wear on places like the thread guides and your local area and maintenance. Buying a used machine is just like buying a used car. Two machines of the same age, one used in a commercial setting that was bet to death versus one used by a hobbyist will command different prices. I wouldn't go 65 percent the cost of a new machine, maybe 50 percent if it was in really nice shape.

    Just my thoughts,

    kgg

    Here is the link. https://www.westernstarleather.com/ARTISAN-TORO-3000-SEWING-MACHINE-art3000_p_2011.html
    the owners retired last December.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    25 minutes ago, kgg said:

    This is a older Consew model as the new version is RB-55. To get the most out of the machine for your sewing needs you would really need to add a servo motor. A servo motor will give you the slow speed control needed with a very short learning curve where as a clutch motor is much, much more difficult. This upgrade will probably run about $200 and is worth every penny. That will drive your price up to about $950 and new Consew RB-5 will be about $1500. I would look for a newer version or just bite the bullet and spent the extra for a new one. Without seeing the machines condition etc if the price of the machine was including the cost of replacing the motor in the $500 range, maybe.

    For doing wallets the RB machines should be quite capable but purses may pose a challenge depending on style, thickness of leather, thickness of seams, type of leather and size of thread. For doing circular type items you would be better off getting a cylinder arm machine (new or used) with a flat top attachment. That way you would be able to sew the flat items like wallets with the flat top attachment installed and cylinder items with it removed. I would suggest looking at Juki 341/ 1341 or clone.

    You should take a few minutes and read the article by Wiz

    Do you have a photo of the machine?

    kgg

    Thanks

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Hi I have an opportunity to look at a Consew 206 rb 1 for a listing price of $750

    the current owner has had it for seven years and is the second owner. The motor is a clutch motor not a servo motor. 
    Is this a good deal? I want to use the machine for belts, wallets and purses.

    thanks

  7. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Ddat said:

    I've been using ritza tiger thread. I really like it. I did my belly with 4mm spacing and 0.8mm thread. If it was available, I would have preferred longer spacing and 1.0 mm thread.

    23553.jpeg

    That’s a beautiful belt!!!

    thanks for sharing

  11. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/19/2021 at 10:16 PM, fredk said:

    I think if you understand and visualize what goes on may help

    Your awl blade tapers from the point to its maximum width. You need to get the blade to a part of its maximum width thru the hole, not just a bit of the taper. As soon as you withdraw the blade the leather starts to close back up, thus you need to get your needle into that hole real fast, in fact, as you withdraw the awl blade the needle should be going in and coming out the other side with the awl blade. If you are saddle stitching the second needle should be going in now once the tip of the awl blade is clear of the hole. Now you'll feel resistance to the thread going thru the hole but if the thread is well waxed it'll pull through

    Thank you, will have to try this

  12. Posted · Report reply

    35 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

    John James' needles 004 are smaller and Tiger thread will fit.

    This is what I have:

    Size 2 (002)

    Length: 54mm / Outer Diameter: 1.0mm

    Thread Pairing

    Tiger: 0.8mm

    Lin Cable: 432, 332

    Other Thread: 0.4-0.5mm Corded

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Hello,

    I have been making knife sheaths sewing through three layers of 8oz leather. Using a vergez Blanchard 2.45 mm wide diamond awl, 002 John James needles and 0.8 ritza tiger thread. It is so tough to pull the needles through the leather, is the awl size to small? 
    thanks in advance

    leather2

     

  14. Posted · Report reply

    On 5/29/2021 at 3:12 AM, zuludog said:

    Just a suggestion........

    If you haven't done so already, Search YouTube for 'beginners tools for leathercraft'; there are several videos.......although they are similar, each one is slightly different, so you can make up your own choices & variations 

    Thank you, watched some people and added some tools to the list.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, zuludog said:

    I think 8oz is about 3mm. I would use size 002 needles and 0,6mm dia thread, and stitching chisels with 4 to 4,5mm spacing

    Like any craft or hobby, sooner or later you just have to start somewhere and adapt as you gain experience, sure in the knowledge that whatever you get, a couple of months later you'll wish you'd chosen something else.......welcome to the fun!.

    Oh, and a couple of other things --

    There are all sorts of knives for leatherwork but a Stanley/utility/boxcutter is cheap and easy to use to start with. In fact if you watch videos by Ian Atkinson you'll see that he produces excellent work and mostly uses a Stanley knife. You can re-sharpen the blades; in fact even new blades work better if they've been stropped

    Make yourself a strop, it's one of the easiest items of leatherwork you'll do; there are several videos on YT. Get a proper stropping compound, like green chromium dioxide

    Here are some YT Channels to look at - Geordie Leather.....Ian Atkinson.....JH Leather.....Nigel Armitage....plus many more

    thank you zuludog and everyone else. Can’t wait to get started!

  17. Posted · Report reply

    39 minutes ago, Klara said:

    By the way, as I was working with chrome-tanned leather which doesn't mark well with wing dividers I drew my stitching line with a pen (special leather marker) and ruler (and a bit freehand in the curves), and it might be my best line yet... Meaning that you could even skip the wing dividers/groover for the moment if your budget is tight.

     

    Thank you, at this point I plan to get a groover.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, Klara said:

    Another vote for the stitching clamp/saddlers clam/stitching pony. There's videos on YouTube on how to make one (if you have (access to) a reasonably equipped wood workshop, making a stitching pony is a lot faster than waiting for delivery. And cheaper.)

    In a pinch a vise on your work table might do. But you need a way to hold the leather in position while you use both hands for stitching. Once you have that, working with a stitching wheel and awl just needs practice. For your very first pieces, you dont even need the wheel  - you could mark the holes for the stitches with your scratch awl (or any other pointy object) and a ruler.

    Regarding needles and thread size: John James 002 isn't big. JJ 2/0 is big... My local shop has tables on its site for optimum needle/thread combinations https://www.decocuir.com/couture-cuir-fil-aiguille-choisir-guide-c1200x67488 It's in French, but have a look around the web sites of your suppliers, they might have the info on there.

    Needles are cheap, you can buy several sizes (is there any retailer who makes packages of 5 needles in each of the 5 sizes?) Thread is more expensive, but good thread is worth every cent!

    Do you have Al Stohlman's book on Handsewing Leather? It's brilliant! 

    My take on tool quality: If I have experience with a tool and know for sure I will use it often, I buy good or even top quality (cordless drills come to mind - the third one was finally a Makita). For starting out, not. Yes, you can easily sell top quality, but I hate selling... 

    Anything that has a cutting edge (knives, but also diamond awls, edgers, groovers) needs to be maintained. You'll want to buy some polishing/honing paste/jewellers rouge and make a strop for your first project (even xacto blades are improved by stropping, though I still hate them for most purposes). If you can sharpen tools, you can greatly improve cheaply bought ones, if you can't, even the most expensive tool will use its edge. 

    Incidentally, I believe that Osborne awls are just as good as Vergez Blanchard, if not better (or at least harder). The VB blade is the one that got a bent tip without dropping on the ground, the Osborne was relatively fine even after falls (then I learned from an old post here about a safety line for the awl: Drill a hole through the handle, attach a loop which you put your hand through. Saves on sharpening as you'll no longer drop the awl.)

     

     

    So what size needle and thread would you recommend for making a knife sheath out of 8 oz leather?

  23. Posted · Report reply

    43 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

    What size holes are you making, how thick is your leather and what size thread will you be using?  Figure what you're going to make and the thickness of the leather.  Most likely 004 small.  First thing is to figure what your hole punching tool is going to be.  Don't put the cart before the horse, they don't push well.

    Sorry, I’ll planing to make knife sheaths out of 8oz veg tan. I’m planing to use the awl you recommended which is 2mm at the widest point. Not sure what size of waxed thread I will use(doesn’t depend on the needle size?). Thanks again for all your help

×
×
  • Create New...