Spence

Yep, I think you're talking about the rolls that are found in stores like WalMart, in the kitchen utensil aisle. It should be with the shelf liner rolls. I use it on my workbenches and just about everywhere else. Years ago you could only find it in RV stores.

Do you have the coupons at the store? One per customer? tks

I can tie a simple crown and a wall and crown in my sleep. The problem is when I wake up - Poof! Here's a good animation for a few knots - including a simple crown and a wall & crown. http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/ho...ed-help-266023/ Have fun.

On the subject of thinning CC... I have some acetone lying around. Does anyone have experience with using this to thin CC? I like the idea of transferring CC to a water bottle.

What does everyone use to mark the leather where you plan to stitch or lace. I don't want to leave marks and what I have in mind is to stitch and lace further in from the edge than the groover will go and a compass will leave a mark. I have thought about a piece of chalk, grease-type pencil - something that can be wiped off without leaving residue? Not that crazy about the gooving either, but that's another topic. Tks

Yes, awesome photography and work! I've carried Surefires for years, both recreational and operational and I've often had trouble with the 'draw.' This solves it. Thanks for sharing.

I believe she charges US$35.00. She does outstanding work too. I'm planning on having her make one with a German Shepherd head and the company name around the edge. Spence

I'm running XP with Avast and Adaware with the new Google Chrome browser. I love 'em all. The Google Chrome has an option to remember all passwords and this is the first time I've used the option in any browser. I like it and Chrome is much faster than IE and a bit faster and much more stable than Firefox. I used AVG for years and when it started missing stuff last year, I switched to Avast. I'm a firm believer in "nothing is fully automatic" and Avast is no exception except for the multiple upgrades daily. I still run a full scan once a week, along with a defrag, whether I need it or not.

Looks great !!! I think I'm finally gonna be able to make my first Guild meeting on Tuesday night. See y'all there.

I use an old marlinspike also. I just grab it with a pair of vise grips when it's hot enough. I don't move fast enough to be dousing fires anymore. strapworks.com has a hot cutter for USD105.00. You can mount it on the bench or a board, as I plan to do. If anyone knows of something comparable at a cheaper price, I'd like to know.

Thanks for the hints, Shawn and Bob, that is awesome work. I'm a long way from tooling though. I may do lacing applique, but the rest will be knots and sennets. (hopefully) Thanks

I moved from rope to leather a couple of years ago and I'm now ready to tackle a fancy picture frame. The knotheads here will know what I'm referring to: The fancywork from the 1800s, done by seamen on the old sailing ships. I've duplicated a couple and even restored one (partially) for a collector. So now, it's time to try one in leather. 1. What would be the best way to secure the leather to the wood frame? Adhesive or staples? (With the ropework I used brads and small amounts of glue), then shellac, paint maybe, and varnish. 2. What adhesive would be best? Spray? 3. Recommendations on leather? Garment, exotic, roo? I plan to try to use sennets, decorative knots, flat turksheads, etc - whatever I can make up that looks good. Thanks for your time and suggestions.

I've got German Shepherds and I make mine 3, 4 & 5 ft long. They tend to get a bit edgy when in town, so a 6' would not work for me. I use my leads for training. And btw, that is an awesome braid you're doing there. I like the backbraid. Can't wait to see the finished product. Twelve is as high as my old ham hands can go anymore.

There's a couple of reasons why I won't use chrome tan. #1 is that the process actually destroys cells, thereby making the leather a bit weaker. Yes, it comes off as a super-soft leather, but at what cost? #2 is something that is near and dear to my heart The chemical used in the process is chromium sulphate, which is considered a cancer-causing product - especially in California. I once worked for a company that cleaned up hazardous waste and there were a lot of companies that walked away and left barrels and vats of chromium sulphate lying around. We would have to suit up and put it into drums and haul it away to Idaho where it was either burned or buried. So, since I breed 'hi-dolla, hi-class' German Shepherds, I'm very particular with what I'm going to put up near the 'intake' of my dogs. That's my $.02

That's great - Thanks Pete

Why didn't I ask this one months ago? It's like asking directions when I'm lost. Great suggestions and I'll try them all. The length of the rivets isn't the problem. The holes appear to be right - I have to push the rivets in. I do believe I'm using the wrong tool though and will invest in a mini-hand punch set (for starters) Marking the top and side of the hole and lining the punch up is an outstanding idea. As soon as I can wrap my brain around how to use the 'universal' plastic guide, I'll make up one of those too. Thanks all.

I've been sitting on this question for months because it's got to have a super-simple answer. But it's time to bite the bullet. When I try to put rivets in my gear, they look like they were done under the influence. Mostly, the problem is the holes I punch. I'm using a handy tandy hole puncher (pliers type). I mark out the where, and it's all downhill from there. I've tried using a smaller punch to get the correct punch tool set up right and it still looks like crap. If I try to put three rivets in a row across a strap, it's embarrassing. I need some help here. Tks

I'll be anxiously waiting.

I stand severely corrected about importing roo hides. Kevin is 100% correct - if you plan to import a hide for commercial use or resale. If you import it, you must be able to prove it is for personal use and you're still liable for inspection fees. Like Kevin says, I've been lucky so far. Considering all of the fees and duties that FWS and Australia charge, it just may be better to buy from a dealer here in the USA, if you plan to make something and sell it. I apologize for the confusion.

I'm doubting that too. I'm waiting for a reply from Fish & Wildlife Service. I know Calif had a ban a few years ago but that was lifted. You may need a license here to sell it - as a retailer, but if you're a hobbyist, buying one or two - why would you need a license? As far as I know, the Australian gov't is the only one that will stop a shipment if the $60 (not sure if that is AUD or USD) is not collected (per shipment). I know Packer tacks that on, so it's in your interest to order enough to offset that fee. I'm assuming that the shipper is the one that's gonna get hauled in if they don't collect the government fee. Or, that may even be tied into the price of the hide. When I buy a .7 sq meter hide from Australia, it costs me roughly US$41 (today). Add about US$26 for shipping and you've got US$87. I think the average price per sq. meter here in the US is US$125. That's NOT including shipping and "handling" charges. Do the math. Yes, there are very reputable roo hide dealers here in the US, but more than doubling the price is a bit over the top. If I absolutely have to have a hide within a week, I might go that route. But I try to always have enough in stock to carry me over the 2-3 week delivery time from Australia.

I buy direct from Australia. Even with shipping, I get a hide for around US$50 less than I can buy here in the USA. And that's not counting the shipping charges here. Even the pre-cut lace is cheaper. I can add one or two spools of lace to the roo shipment without increasing the shipping charges.

Thanks, Bob. I'll hold off on the antiquing until I get comfortable with the basics.

Sounds interesting. Any chance of a picture or two. I can read, but it has trouble reaching the part of the brain that pictures it. Thanks Spence

I can't seem to find anything about this, so hopefully I'm not boring anyone. What is the sequence of operation for the following: 1. Conditioner 2. Burnishing edges (I plan to use water) 3. Dyeing (black) 4. Satin Sheen 5. Sewing (both functional and decorative) If I've left anything out, please let me know. The project is 2-1/2" wide sport (protection) dog collars - personal use. Thanks Spence

Ray - I'm sorry - I get to thinking everyone around me can read my mind. And even understand me. I raise and train German Shepherds for law enforcement types. Part of their training is to learn how to bite properly. I use an old section of firehose, filled with leather bits and pieces, then stitched at the ends. This give the "munchers" an idea what is expected of them. For puppies, I use a square of 5-8 oz leather tied on the end of a line to entice them into a chase and catch game. Johanna, thanks for that "cheat sheet". It will be going up on the wall here.